Front Brake - Exploded view - Brake drag

[entrinsic]

Does anyone by chance have an exploded view of the front brake parts for a 2004 Pilot? I'm after a view that will show all the components of the front caliper assembly.

In replacing the front pads and cleaning up the caliper, I think I may have mixed up the upper and lower stainless clips on which the ears of the brake pads glide. I understand from Honda that the top and bottom are different on the front but I'm having tough time figuring out which goes where and either seems to fit just as well in either location.

I'm having a bit of brake drag and want to make sure that these clips aren't part of the problem.


Thanks, in advance for your help.

Jeff

[archie]

Some pics here.
DIY Brake Job
http://www.ehow.com/how_5273660_chan...nda-pilot.html
Or http://i.ehow.com/images/GlobalPhoto...660/7_Full.jpg

Also see attached picture.
The upper clip,pad is #13 on the picture
013 45238-S9V-A12 View CLIP, PAD MSRP$6.12
Lower clip, pad is #12
012 45237-S9V-A11 View CLIP, PAD MSRP$14.77

[entrinsic]

Thank you very much Archie, exactly what I was looking for!

Sad part is that in Canada the quote I got on replacement clips (thought replacement might be more efficient than cleaning them) was 3-4 times the US price!!!

Now I remember why I imported the vehicle!

Also, found the cause of the brake drag. I used Wagner Thermoquiet pads and didn't realize that the Thermoquiet pads for the pilot have built-in shims (raised area on the back of the pad); I put the OEM shims in along with the built-in shims, caused a bit of drag as the caliper piston didn't retract enough to give free space for the pads to fully lift away from the disc.



Thanks again.

Jeff

[jestmaty]

Good job chasing down the problem. It seems that more and more new brake pads are coming with their own, built in shims.

Just drank a couple o' beers Friday with my neighbor while he changed out the original pads on his 1998 Isuzu Trooper. 11 years old and only 73,000 miles on the first set of pads. They were still only about 50% worn after all this time. Mileage is of course, very, very low for a vehicle this old.

The new pads from Autozone have a lifetime warranty and cost $23. Even at that price, they came with new shims... he knew not to double up when replacing the pads.

Lastly, he is getting me used to "not" turning the discs when doing a brake job. I've always turned 'em or bought new, but my brakes were wearing so evenly that I just slapped new pads on and drove off. Couple thousand miles later and my new brakes are doing just great!

[nickg5]

did you use pads bought at the store or OEM or something else?

I am at 54k and I as well like to replace the rotors or resurface them as it makes both friction components of the braking system new but I am warming up to the idea of just doing the pads.

I am considering using a set of Hawk HPS street pads or Hawk LTS TRuck SUV pads.


cheers

Nick

[belundy]

Replacing or turning rotors as "routine" at a brake job is a really bad and expensive habit, and born I'm convinced from Midas and others who are trying to get the per car ticket sale as high as possible. Turning rotors profits them in every way, now and in the future.

Unless the rotor is warped where it annoys you with steering wheel wobble or vibration during braking, or the rotor has cracks or other catastrophic defects, just change the pads and be done. The new pads will quickly seat themselves and work just fine.

If the old pad looks visibly different in thickness along its width (they are often different in thickness along the length), I would check the rotor at the edge and inside radius to make sure there is not a significant (my rule of thumb is .010 inches) difference in thickness. Anymore than that and I'm concerned that the new pads will take too long to conform to the rotor, compromising some stopping power and possibly overheat the rotor along a narrow contact strip.

[ceraboy]

I am not sure the clips are as critical as the slide pins which are also different from top to bottom. I have seen people put this is in the wrong orientation which does not neccesarily present a huge safety risk, but could cause drag. The reason the upper and lower brake pins are different is that the leading edge of the brake pad tends to bite a little more which would eventually taper the pad. Honda's solution is to make the upper pin a little more stiff, with the addition of the rubber seal #10 in diagram, so that the trailing edge of the pad gets a bit more force from the caliper to equalize pad wear.

Indeed there is no reason to be putting in new rotors every time you change the pads. Machining the rotor is often unnecessary and more rapidly nears you to the minimum working thickness. If your rotors look good and you have never ground metal to metal, just replace the pads.

Lightly sanding the rotors to remove any glaze and prior brake pad material will improve the bed in of the new pads. I have access to a bead blaster which also works very nicely.

Also make sure you rotor vents are clean, this is often overlooked. Clogged vents from dirt, mud, or rust can inhibit air flow and lead to faster brake overheating and rotor damage.

Finally make sure you follow the bed in procedures for your pads, this is important to transfer the pad material evenly onto the rotor surface, otherwise your pads will never work as well as claimed.

[atoz]

Careboy. Thank you for your explanation about the different between upper and lower caliper guide pins. You mentioned that the upper pin having a rubber seal on the tip. Is this only true for the front brake?
I have found my Pilot having the pin with rubber seal on the lower side for the rear brake. Is that correct way?

[ceraboy]

Yep, if you notice the rear calipers face the rear of the car and front calipers face the front of the car. The rubber bushing is on the leading edge slide pin of the caliper based on the rotation direction, so in the front the bushing should be on the top and in the rear the bushing should be on the bottom.

Front Brake Exploded View:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...y5=FRONT+BRAKE

Rear Brake Exploded View:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry5=REAR+BRAKE