2005 Pilot ATF Filter Replacement

[ceraboy]

Even though most people will tell you there is no user replaceable ATF filter on this rig, there indeed is. I decided to replace not for any reason other than I was curious to see what debris might be on the filter after 96,000 miles not using ATF-Z1 (I have been using Valv. Maxlife from 36,000 miles on). The filter paper is dirty as opposed to the bright red paper on the new filter, but no unusual wear and tear.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ATF+PIPE+(+05)

2005 Honda Pilot (ordered from Majestic Honda www.hondaautomotiveparts.com )
#11 – Spring $1.20
#23 – Filter Gasket $2.26
#22 – Filter O-ring $3.26
#26 – Crush Washers x 2 $0.34
#7 – ATF Filter $10.68

The O-ring, gasket, and spring could be reused, but it was the first go around and if I didnt order it I would of needed it. At least they were sufficiently cheap to replace everything

[ceraboy]

The filter can easily be reached by removing the battery and air intake assembly. I also removed the Brake electrical connector shown with the arrow. The main bolt is 17mm and the three perimeter bolts on the housing are 10mm. A gear wrench would make it easier, but I did it with box end wrenches. You also need to remove bolt #27 from the parts picture to free the ATF line.

[ceraboy]

The assembly comes out quite easily and the ATF filter cover is asymmetric so you cannot easily goof up the orientation on reassembly. Looking inside the filter cavity with a mirror you can see the three prongs that support the spring. The spring does not fit tight so it tilts when you set it in, but when you put the assembly back together the back of the filter element aligns the spring.

The filter gasket sits inside a recess in the aluminum cover, but I found that the ATF element lays too low inside the cavity to align in the recess. I fabricated a small tool with a paper clip to insert through the ATF cover to just barely lift the filter and gasket to slip into the recess, you can feel when it goes in. Then just bolt her back up. As for torque I went by feel, particularly on the 17mm bolt to make sure the seal was made, but you are threading into aluminum so don’t get carried away.

[ceraboy]

This filter has 96,000 miles on it and there was no appreciable build up of debris or clutch wear byproduct. In the folds of the crease there was some fine metallic particulate, but very little. As a note I have been using Valvoline Maxlife Dex/Merc (specified to meet ATF-Z1) since 36,000 miles. I was pleased with how clean the filter looked given the miles, it may not be a critical replacement component, but for $17.66 it was an easy venture and only took about an hour. Looking at the parts breakdown, the 2006-2008 have a similar filter setup, albeit slightly different than the 2005, which is also different from the 2003-2004 model.

[moda_way]

Nice writeup. Made me curious to see it for the 2009 and it looks a bit easier only having a filter element and o-ring gasket.

[belundy]

If held up to a light, can you still see through the filter?

It might be interesting to a few other members that you used a DexMerc fluid and not even an import Multi-vehicle fluid as a replacement for Z-1.

I think in some minds, surely you were asking for the thing to blow up or at least shift badly somewhere along the way. Or, for the filter to be filled with clutch material.

Also, I came across a posting the other day (not on this forum) that Z-1 experienced a pretty rapid viscosity index deterioration--less than 10,000 miles for a 20% drop in index if I remember. They noted having their trans fluid tested regularly and changed at 15,00 mile intervals.

I recently noticed something similar in that with our Pilot being much smoother shifting right after a 3 qt drop-n-fill. Now about 9000 miles later I've noticed a bit of firmness--one of the reasons I changed it 9000 miles prior.

Makes one wonder if say Castrol Multi-Vehicle or your Valvoline might be superior fluid (more stable and/or advanced) in that they were developed some years after the engineering and introduction of Z-1. Certainly the fluid was compatible with Z-1 as you had a significant Z-1/Valvoline mix through at least two changes.

[ceraboy]

I forgot to try holding it up to a light, although I do remember while dissecting it that I could see some hint of light coming through the filter paper.

I have been quite happy with the MaxLife fluid and although rated as a dex/merc fluid once you start reading the specs it seems to be valvolines approach to a multi-car fluid.

I cant say I really noticed any difference in shift performance, but the maxlife does not brown as quickly as Z1. Furthermore, up here in rural Montana it is a bit more cumbersome to find Z1.

Valvoline markets the maxlife as a synthetic base, but for $3 a quart, I would guess it is mostly dino juice. I change the fluid every 15-25k by disconnecting the ATF return line and pumping the fluid while in D, 9qts $27.

[belundy]

Very timely that you would post this and after using essentially pure Valvoline--9 qt replacements-- for 60,000 miles with perceptibly and measurably good results.

It's as close to a controlled test as has been posted here.

I have suspected for years that in most hydraulic systems fresh fluid and all that it brings with it (uncompromised index, virgin additives, draining of contaminants and particulates) is more key to performance and longevity, than dedication to a specific fluid brand, whether OEM or recommended aftermarket.

And, you intelligently use recommended aftermarket products for reasons of availability/convenience.