Are rotors and pads all the same?

[OurHonda]

Our Pilot has 85K on and the pedal is starting to pulsate when stopping. We have been happy with the stopping and durability of the original parts. I just called the dealer and got a quote of $60 for pads and 127.50 each for the front rotors. NAPA is $55 and $75 for the rotors. If I get a name brand pad and rotor will performance and life be the same as OE. I have looked at several online sources but the shipping is $50 for 2 rotors and pads. Any recommendations? Thanks.

[kramerd1506]

OEM is fine equipment and there are many other fine aftermarket brands also. Either would be great, as long as you stick with a brand with a good reputation for quality parts. I like Brembo rotors, personally. You can check any online website for them. If you are going to order OEM, you can check the prices at the site's sponsor hondacuraworld.com, they might beat the dealer you are using, even with shipping - it happens. As for pads, there is a little more to know. Pad technology has moved along and there are some choices now as far as hardness, stopping performance, brake dust, and the material the pads are made of. You can find a good thread or two on this site if you use the search function.

I doubt you'll have any problems finding good rotors and pads, opinions vary widely on personal preference but they'll all do the job.

Also, just because your brake pedal is beginning to shimmy doesn't necessarily mean you need new rotors (or pads for that matter, although you probably do need new pads at 85K). There is a process called "turning" a rotor which will shave off a small amount of metal on the face of the rotors in order to bring them back into a perfectly flat state. It is absolutely acceptable to turn your rotors instead of replacing them as long as, when they are done being turned, they are still at least the minimum thickness necessary for safe operation. I don't know that thickness off the top of my head, but any good brake shop can look at them and tell you if its possible, and turn your rotors for you. I'm not sure the dealer will though, because they want you to replace them, I'm sure. If I were you, I'd get the rotors examined to see if they can be turned or not, and if so I would turn them, not replace them, and have new good quality pads installed. Good luck!

[belundy]

If you can get the rotors off yourself, many independent auto shops and some of the better parts stores will turn the rotors for $15 to $20 each. I would stay away from a brake shop as they don't make money on turning rotors and are always looking for something else to "provide" you at extra cost.

Also consider that by the time the pedal pulsation or steering wheel vibration is annoying, the rotor is likely very warped. Turning the rotor to get it true again makes it much thinner and prone to warping even faster, and you have to repeat the repair again. You may be $20 a rotor plus your time towards purchasing new ones.

After market rotors from Raybestos, Beck/Arnley are good product and decently priced. non-drilled Brembo's are also a good value. See RockAuto or our friend at HondaAcuraworld if you want to stay OEM.

[giwan1259]

Does anyone know the thickness specs on rotors? In my case its a 95 Pilot.

Originally posted by kramerd1506
OEM is fine equipment and there are many other fine aftermarket brands also.
Also, just because your brake pedal is beginning to shimmy doesn't necessarily mean you need new rotors (or pads for that matter, although you probably do need new pads at 85K). There is a process called "turning" a rotor which will shave off a small amount of metal on the face of the rotors in order to bring them back into a perfectly flat state. It is absolutely acceptable to turn your rotors instead of replacing them as long as, when they are done being turned, they are still at least the minimum thickness necessary for safe operation. I don't know that thickness off the top of my head, but any good brake shop can look at them and tell you if its possible, and turn your rotors for you. I'm not sure the dealer will though, because they want you to replace them, I'm sure. If I were you, I'd get the rotors examined to see if they can be turned or not, and if so I would turn them, not replace them, and have new good quality pads installed. Good luck!

[jcantanixon]

Originally posted by giwan1259
Does anyone know the thickness specs on rotors? In my case its a 95 Pilot.

1. Your Pilot isn't that old
2. I believe it's actually imprinted on the rotor itself, either on the edge or on the center hub.

[whizmo]

It's becoming very difficult to turn rotors on modern cars. There simply is not enough "meat" on the rotor - once you turn it smooth, you're below spec. With 85K miles on a set of rotors, I'd probably replace.

For brakes, I prefer OEM parts generally, but there are some good (and bad) aftermarket stuff out there. At least with OEM, you know you're going to do as well as what you took off and the stuff always fits properly. If you shop around, you can generally buy OEM for a price similar to good aftermarket stuff.

- Mark

[xGS]

Originally posted by belundy

Also consider that by the time the pedal pulsation or steering wheel vibration is annoying, the rotor is likely very warped.

Are you sure that the rotors are warping - or could the cause be uneven deposition of friction material from the pads?

[sblvro]

with 167K miles, I'm still on my stock rotors but have replaced pads with oem 3x already

[giwan1259]

Have you turned the rotors at any of those pad replacements?

Originally posted by sblvro
with 167K miles, I'm still on my stock rotors but have replaced pads with oem 3x already

[hondacuraplanet]

Pads are important, as every pad style can change the pedal feel, and the composites of the pads can change stopping distance as well. Brake pads are designed to dissipate and absorb heat. Ceramic pads, for example, reflect heat, and while they last longer and don't emit as much brake dust, they tend to warp unslotted brake rotors because they reflect the heat back to the brake rotor.

As far as rotors go, metal is metal IMO.

[sblvro]

Originally posted by giwan1259
Have you turned the rotors at any of those pad replacements?

No! I check the pads when it almost thin and order at ^^

[belundy]

I'm still pondering what "uneven deposition of material" means....

I will add to the pad discussion that some semi-metallic aftermarket pads that are intended to last longer and have less dust than OEM will wear down the rotor much quicker leaving a ridge at the edge that must eventually be turned.

Personally, I'd rather replace the pads more often and the rotors never.

[whizmo]

Originally posted by belundy
I'm still pondering what "uneven deposition of material" means....

A vocal minority of folks believe the rotor warping (as in the rotor assuming a potato chip, non-flat shape) is a myth and that the pulsating in the pedal is caused by a surface glaze that builds up on the rotor unevenly from the hot brake pad material that is deposited to the rotor during stops. These same folks believe that most brake rotor problems are the result of making hard stops and then continuing to hold brake pressure with the rotor stationary - they theorize that this problem can be avoided if you let the vehicle creep a bit after a hard stop to avoid the "hot spot".

I've just heard the theory, and know little else about it.

- Mark

[sblvro]

Originally posted by whizmo


A vocal minority of folks believe the rotor warping (as in the rotor assuming a potato chip, non-flat shape) is a myth and that the pulsating in the pedal is caused by a surface glaze that builds up on the rotor unevenly from the hot brake pad material that is deposited to the rotor during stops. These same folks believe that most brake rotor problems are the result of making hard stops and then continuing to hold brake pressure with the rotor stationary - they theorize that this problem can be avoided if you let the vehicle creep a bit after a hard stop to avoid the "hot spot".

I've just heard the theory, and know little else about it.

- Mark

I think the warping is also a myth. that is why I initially experienced the vibration on my first pad replacement and noticed the scarring of the rotors. I decided not to have it turned and just replace the pads and since there were several long trips coming, just drove the pilot. after driving at least 2K miles, the vibration stopped and that is why I am on my 3rd set of pads with the stock rotor at 167K miles. the stock rotors has become smooth again and I don't see the scarring from the 1st pad replacement.

[belundy]

uh, OK, but if the rotor had a build up of glazing or ??, you be able to measure it with caliper or micrometer.

A a light roughing up with a palm sander has been all I've needed to remove any surface glaze (if it was there to begin with) and provide enough abrasion to set the pads. I've turned rotors twice in 30 years. Midas is ticked.

Never had a warped rotor unwarp itself, although they do wear down a lot or a little over time.