Is disconnecting and bleeding needed when changing pads?

[JordanN]

This is just a curious question. Since the brake system is a closed system why do you have to bleed the brakes when changing the pads if you do not disconnect the calipers from the hoses?

I have seen people disconnect the caliper from the wheel, but leave the rubber hose on, then compress the caliper back in. The PB fluid in the resevior then rises back to starting level.

Is it just easier to disconnect the hoses to get the calipers out of your way, or is it some critical step.

[krygny]

It's a good idea to replace the brake fluid, entirely, every time you do a brake job. The fluid deteriorates over time.

[ED27]

Originally posted by JordanN
This is just a curious question. Since the brake system is a closed system why do you have to bleed the brakes when changing the pads if you do not disconnect the calipers from the hoses?

It really depends on when you have your brakes serviced. Per Honda's specs, you should flush out brake fluid every 3 years so if your brake service coincides with this time frame you can do everything at the same time.

If you're hard on the brakes and require service sooner, the Pilot is easy enough to service by just swinging the caliper out of the way and securing it with a tie. Once this is done you'll have easy access to the pads. Some mechanics believe in doing a small bleed as you compress the caliper. This will get some of the dirty fluid out of the system. The caveat is that you can introduce air into system if you're not careful.

[ctobio]

I don't recommend to the average DIYer to loosen the bleeder screws a little when replacing pads. Car forums are littered with folks who post "I changed my brakes and now the pedal sinks to the floor, even after seating the pads!"

It's too easy to screw it up, especially if you don't have a lot of experience working with brakes, that I just don't recommend it.

I think the notion of "you'll push all that crap into the master cylinder" is bunk if the car has had its brake fluid replaced at the recommended interval (2-3 years, regardless of miles). If you're not confident to do this yourself, then have a professional do it. With something like a Motive Power Bleeder, this job is a piece of cake.

[ED27]

Originally posted by ctobio
.....With something like a Motive Power Bleeder, this job is a piece of cake.

Have you looked into getting a custom adapter made (based on the stock Pilot cap)? I could never get the j-bolt thing to work so I ended up using a Mity-Vac unit that attaches to your air compressor.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by ED27
Have you looked into getting a custom adapter made (based on the stock Pilot cap)? I could never get the j-bolt thing to work so I ended up using a Mity-Vac unit that attaches to your air compressor.

Nope, the J-hook works just fine for me. Keep the pressure at around 10psi and you should have no problems.

See here how I did it:

Bleeding with the Motive Power Bleeder - Howto

[fopsie]

I just joined this forum because I now have a problem. I changed front brake pads and bled some fluid. Now pedal is really low and spongy. I see from ctobio's comments that this is can be a common problem if done wrong. "I don't recommend to the average DIYer to loosen the bleeder screws a little when replacing pads. Car forums are littered with folks who post "I changed my brakes and now the pedal sinks to the floor, even after seating the pads!"
I have done brakes on other cars many time and have never had this problem. Did this on my 2004 Pontiac GTP last weekend without any problems. Even had to rebuild calipers. Are Honda's significantly different>
Any suggestions for fixing this?

Its my wife's car and she is quite ticked.

[nickg5]

You probably introduced some air in the system. You need to do a thorough bleeding job. Hopefully you will not have to bleed much. I suggest make friends with your wife so she can be your helper to pump the brake pedal. Meanwhile please be careful driving the Pilot as the truck may require much longer distance to stop.