oil changes

[bigern03]

Hey I have just recently purchased a used 03 pilot and was curious about using Castrol oil. That is pretty much all that I have used in my other vehicles. Also on the filter what about Wix filters also not a huge fan of Fram.

[N_Jay]

As long as the grade is right and it is changed on schedule, oil type, brand, etc. is pretty much irrelevant.

[chas22]

I use Castrol 5w30 year round, every 3,500 miles and a WIX 51334 the larger filter. (Yes I know, but it's my choice)

[bigern03]

Thanks for getting back with me. Why is everyone using the 5w30, Honda is new animal to me. I use 10w30 always have, is there a different break down on the oil. What about were you live is cold any or do live in warm weather.

[belundy]

auto engineers spend considerable time to determine the correct oil weight; I doubt advanced shade tree mechanics or your local wrench turner can improve on that. Use what the owners manual suggests (which for my'03 is 5w20 if memory serves), and at intervals they suggest.

As N-Jay eludes, as long as the oil has the SAE "star" logo, any will do. Bubbas garage aint mixing base oil and additive packages--only major refiners can afford to make the stuff.

I have been using Walmarts "house" brand for a decade 'cause it's cheap and meets the spec. Three vehicles with 180+kmiles each in that span, at least suggests oil wasn't a detrimental factor.

Last, while I'm rollin', there are various "oil" websites run by the last of the 60's rebel-just-because, that measure everything from zinc, phosphates to dino snot content of oil, apparently for academic purposes.

As a erudite dude once said, "just because there *is* a difference, doesn't mean it *makes* a difference".

Over and out.

[RSQ Pilot]

belundy....well said!

unfortunately,
this horse will continue to be beaten long after we are all dead and gone along with the dino's

[bigdadi]

5w30 is much more popular than 5w20. I can only find 5w30 Mobil 1 in Costco.
I need to order 5w20 Mobil 1 online which is a little cheaper than auto-parts stores.

[youbetcha]

Originally posted by belundy

Last, while I'm rollin', there are various "oil" websites run by the last of the 60's rebel-just-because, that measure everything from zinc, phosphates to dino snot content of oil, apparently for academic purposes.

I didn't get a snot content of any dinosaurs at the last oil analysis. I want my money back!!

Surely, you are kidding about "academic" purposes. I happen to like making decisions about oil and ATF replacement based on some actual information. I also didn't mind finding out about a failing gasket (leaking a very small amount), and being able to address it on my own time, before it outright failed and made itself an emergency, possibly destroying something else with it.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by bigdadi
. . .I need to order 5w20 Mobil 1 . .

Why?

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by youbetcha
. . . I also didn't mind finding out about a failing gasket (leaking a very small amount), . . . .

What gasket shows up on an analysis, and how does "better" oil help?

[belundy]

No, I wasn't kidding about "academic". Knowing what was in a fresh batch or oil change doesn't foretell what's in the next.

Having the data often doesn't portend disaster or success, as neither you or I or anyone short of a seasoned automotive engineer is going to have a clue which datum is really significant, or have an opportunity to work with petro companies to have the formulation changed.

Plus, unless you test *every* batch before putting it into your car, and you have something more than anecdotal evidence that, say, 200 ppm of zinc makes a hoots difference than 500 ppm, what's the point? Dino snot is bad at over 300ppm, btw.

Entertaining? Interesting? OK, I'll by that; I've spent money on those type activities. But significant?

[youbetcha]

Originally posted by N_Jay


What gasket shows up on an analysis, and how does "better" oil help?

It was some time ago. I think it was antifreeze in the oil, but that doesn't sound right. It wasn't that they detected the gasket directly, of course.

I don't understand the part about "better oil". I didn't say anything about "better oil".

[youbetcha]

Originally posted by belundy

Having the data often doesn't portend disaster or success, as neither you or I or anyone short of a seasoned automotive engineer is going to have a clue which datum is really significant, or have an opportunity to work with petro companies to have the formulation changed.

True enough on the point about an indicator of failure actually resulting in failure. You get a flu shot, and you didn't get sick. So was it the flu shot or was it just luck this year -- you'll never know. But at the same time, that isn't really a great argument for skipping the flu shot next year, just because you can't "prove" that it worked. It can still make sense.

I'll just challenge you a bit on your previous posts, because you have been implying the oil analysis is about testing the oil to see how the "oil" is doing -- it really isn't, it is about testing the engine. Most of it is measuring for stuff in the oil that shouldn't be there: metals that would indicate unusual wear for the miles since the last change, antifreeze, too much dirt in suspension, etc.

And, the ones I've gotten, have come with some translation, in English. And a comparison of averages, against other samples of the same engine in their database.

I don't think it is as much bunk as you have been suggesting (although, I will say I have enjoyed reading the colorful comments, even if I don't agree with them)

You CAN get an analysis to see if any "additives" are left in the oil, but I don't think that even comes with a standard analysis, and I agree, I'm not sure there is a lot of useful data there, you don't know where the sample started.

[belundy]

OK, let's say you had 20% more ferrous deposits in your oil than last time. Sure, they told you in plain English that there was 20% more than the last sample, or it's say 25% more than the average vehicle, or if the data was detailed, say 30% more than the average of your model vehicle.

What do you *do* with the information? Go to Honda and demand a new engine? Have them put in a new short block as a preventative?

Would you know where the wear is coming from? Wait, was it because you changed oil filter brands and the metallic material isn't being trapped in the filter? Was it because the car was sitting on an incline the last oil change and washed some of the sludge and trapped metal at the bottom of the pan? Was it contamination of the drain pan because you left it sitting by your bench grinder last week? Is it a worn valve guide? Ring material?

Even if you have the metallurgy verified and could match it to say the second oil ring, do you know *which* piston? Have any lost enough compression to detect? Even is yes, do you tear down and rebuild?

In practice, you think "hmm, that's interesting" and drive it another 100k miles until it knocks on acceleration or blows a blue smoke trail.

If you find it's low on additives, do you know just how low is acceptable (of any of several dozen elements)? Or, do you just change the oil every 7500 miles (like I do) and drive it for 180k miles then trade it off because all the other parts are starting to look a bit shabby?

Yes, a bit skeptical, here....