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Old 12-28-2008, 01:19 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Are Belts & Tensioners covered under the extended warranty?

My wife drives a 2006 LX with approximately 45K miles on the odometer. We are the original owners (May 2006) and purchased the 8 year, 120K mile extended warranty.

I have started to notice a squealing noise when my wife starts the engine. She had pointed out this issue several months ago, but it seemed to "heal itself" back then. The old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it" came to mind, so I performed a quick visual inspection and left it at that.

I am fairly convinced that the noise is coming from a belt or tensioner for her A/C compressor. I say this because the noise stopped when I had her shut off the A/C. My wife claims that the noise stops within 1-2 minutes after the engine is started, but does not think that it is related to the A/C belt or tensioner. Long story short, I need to perform some more troubleshooting.

After performing a search, I found out that others have had this issue and that the problem is usually fixed by replacing the belt or tensioner.

Since the belt is only ~$20, I think I will try that first. I do not believe that the drive belts are covered under the terms of our extended warranty. I don't know if drive belt tensioners are covered under the extended warranty, but I would suspect that they are.
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Old 12-28-2008, 02:39 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I would say that the tensioner being part of the drivetrain/powertrain is covered. If they argue that the belt is a wear and tear item ask them when its a scheduled service item.
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Old 12-28-2008, 11:31 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I doubt the tensioner is covered by the standard powertrain warranty (which generally does not apply to engine accessories), but probably would be covered by an extended warranty, depending on the fine print in the policy. Belts and hoses are often excluded as "wear items".

This does sound like a bad belt or tensioner, but you may have to wait until the problem is apparent at times other than cold startup as they generally won't take your word on a problem - they have to be able to duplicate it in their shop. I doubt you're doing the car any harm by letting it squeal a little at startup so waiting until it gets a little more obvious is probably Okay. Minor repair as these things go so no big worries even if you have to foot the bill.

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Old 12-30-2008, 08:36 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Under the extended warranty, here's what's covered under engine:

ENGINE
- Cylinder Block
- Crankshaft
- Main Caps
- Main Bearings
- Pistons and Pins
- Piston Rings
- Connecting Rods and Caps
- Rod Bearings
- Cam Shaft(s)
- Cam Bearings
- Timing/Balance Shaft Belts (for failure only)
- Timing Gears
- Timing Belt Tensioners and Bearings
- Timing Belt Cover
- Water Pump and Pulley
- Oil Pump Oil Pan
- Cylinder Head(s)
- Valve Covers
- Rocker Arms and
Adjusting Screws
- Rocker Shafts
- Rocker Bushings
- Intake and Exhaust Valves
- Valve Springs
- Valve Retainers
- Valve Guides and Seals
- Pushrods
- Lifters
- Followers
- Engine Mounts
- Intake Manifold
- Exhaust Manifolds
- Oil Pressure Switch
- Serpentine BeltTensioner
- Seals/Gaskets for the above stated parts

You're safe
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Old 12-30-2008, 08:48 PM   #5 (permalink)
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NOte that typically, if a covered part is damaged by the failure of a non-covered part, they typically wont cover it. So if your belt breaks and damages the belt tensioner, they won't cover the belt tensioner.
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Old 01-18-2009, 09:20 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Default Yes, should be covered

I had a serpentine belt replaced under the regular 36k warranty.

Might differ a little for extended... From the post above, looks like you're covered
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Old 08-13-2009, 06:56 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Reviving a pretty old thread here....

I noticed lately that the serpenting belt tensioner pulley is squealing a bit, more noticeable when the a/c compressor kicks on.

Not bad, just annoying.

So, yesterday, the neighbor and I decide to pull the pulley and/or the whole tensioner on my '04. Wrong.................

There is absolutely NO!! room to get at any of the bolts holding the tensioner on. We decide to just remove the pulley ( which is reverse thread btw ) and ran into another problem.

As I threaded the bolt out of the center of the pulley, the bolt hits the unibody 'frame' and won't back completely out! Can't remove the pulley if you can't get the bolt out.

My neighbor and I know our way around cars, yet the pulley removal had us stumped. We were trying to just remove the pulley as it cost $17 bucks for a new one. the entire tensioner assembly cost $61. Both prices from Advance Autoparts. Doesn't really matter 'cause I don't think I could ever remove either one.

Dealer said they only sell the entire tensioner assembly, and it was $120!!!

To summarize.... it ain't coming off as far as I can tell.
.... Maybe it could be covered under Hondacare extended?
.... Maybe I'll just leave it alone and just endure the noise
.... If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
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Old 08-13-2009, 07:42 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Lets make sure we know whose extended warranty you are asking about.
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Old 08-13-2009, 11:09 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by rocky
Lets make sure we know whose extended warranty you are asking about.
hondacare

Not a third party warranty, but the HondaCare one...

I have a $50 deductible, but I'm wondering if a 'beginning to fail' belt tensioner might be covered.

I really like doing my own work on my Pilot, but this tensioner pulley thing is a real b**ch to tackle.
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Old 08-17-2009, 08:46 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by jestmaty
Reviving a pretty old thread here....

I noticed lately that the serpenting belt tensioner pulley is squealing a bit, more noticeable when the a/c compressor kicks on.

Not bad, just annoying.

So, yesterday, the neighbor and I decide to pull the pulley and/or the whole tensioner on my '04. Wrong.................

There is absolutely NO!! room to get at any of the bolts holding the tensioner on. We decide to just remove the pulley ( which is reverse thread btw ) and ran into another problem.

As I threaded the bolt out of the center of the pulley, the bolt hits the unibody 'frame' and won't back completely out! Can't remove the pulley if you can't get the bolt out.

My neighbor and I know our way around cars, yet the pulley removal had us stumped. We were trying to just remove the pulley as it cost $17 bucks for a new one. the entire tensioner assembly cost $61. Both prices from Advance Autoparts. Doesn't really matter 'cause I don't think I could ever remove either one.

Dealer said they only sell the entire tensioner assembly, and it was $120!!!

To summarize.... it ain't coming off as far as I can tell.
.... Maybe it could be covered under Hondacare extended?
.... Maybe I'll just leave it alone and just endure the noise
.... If it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Anybody have any thoughts about the bolt not being able to clear the frame when I try to take off the pulley? It hits the 'frame' before it comes completely out... can't remove the squealing pulley ( which is only $18 at the autoparts place) I'm kinda stumped.
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Old 08-20-2009, 10:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Bump.

Still the question that maybe someone has the answer to....

How would you remove the tensioner pulley if while backing out the bolt, it hits the frame of the vehicle before it comes completely out?

I'd like to change the pulley out, but I can't seem to figure out how to get that pulley bolt out. I loosened it enough to back it out by hand, but it hits the frame b4 it comes out of the pulley.
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Old 08-21-2009, 08:04 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Can you unbolt a motor mount and jack up the engine to get it to clear?
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Old 08-21-2009, 01:41 PM   #13 (permalink)
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A 1" bi-metal hole saw would make a new access port in short order!

I'm semi serious....in most cases it won't compromise structural integrity (i.e. stay away from spot welded seams) and you can usually find a mating rubber plug to seal the hole back up.
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Old 08-21-2009, 11:31 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I'm all about easy and efficient, not always the same!

How far would you have to move the bolt to get it out?

I'll try to take a look at mine and see what you mean if it's the same on a 2010.
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