did half a** brake job

[03pilotONE]

ok I just got done changing brake pads... I attemped to remove the rotors to have them turned... but I could not get the screws off the rotors so I just left them and just replace the pads. is that bad?.. rotors felt smooth, and the pads where not that thin to even cause damage to the rotors.. will I be ok? will i have to replace the pads even sooner because I did not resurfacing the rotors?..

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by 03pilotONE
ok I just got done changing brake pads... I attemped to remove the rotors to have them turned... but I could not get the screws off the rotors so I just left them and just replace the pads. is that bad?.. rotors felt smooth, and the pads where not that thin to even cause damage to the rotors.. will I be ok? will i have to replace the pads even sooner because I did not resurfacing the rotors?..

The "right" way to get the screws off is to use an impact driver (The kind you hit with a hammer) and a #3 Philips tip.

Most people don't have a #3 Philips and try to use a #2 and a regular driver.

once you bugger the heads, then you just have to drill out the screws. It is very easy to do.

Your pads will last just fine.

[ctobio]

Every time I rotate the tires, I exercise those screws so they don't rust in place.

That said, if the rotors are no thinner than the halfway point between new and minimum thickness, and there isn't any evidence of pulsation on brake application, and there's no grooving, then the rotors are fine to reuse as is.

[krygny]

Originally posted by 03pilotONE
.. will I be ok? will i have to replace the pads even sooner because I did not resurfacing the rotors?..

Every time I ever did disk brakes myself, that's all I bothered to do. I never had a problem and it was a lot cheaper and easier. Unless the rotor is warped or scored by the wear tabs, cutting is usually not necessary. You'd be surprised at how many shops don't turn rotors (even if they say they did). Some will just tell you you need new ones and replace them. They've gotten generally cheaper too.

[03pilotONE]

Thanks guys i feel alot better now... now all i gotta do is a brake fluid flush...

[ctobio]

Originally posted by 03pilotONE
Thanks guys i feel alot better now... now all i gotta do is a brake fluid flush...

I might be doing one as well this weekend. I ought to document the job with the Motive Power Bleeder.

[geopilot]

Please let us know how it goes with the Motive bleeder. I could never get the cap on mine to seal on the Pilot. I have used it with great success on our Volvo, but that uses the threaded cap- not the chain/screw deal for the Honda.

[ctobio]

I bailed on it this weekend because of the absurd humidity we were having because of TS Hanna. Perhaps this weekend.

I think I should be able to do this, though.

[nickg5]

I did mess up the front rotor screws.
Somehow the rear ones came out no problem.
How do you guys suggest I take them out?
They seem to be rusted well. Drill with a left hand drill or what else. I did try an extractor and all it did was to break the tip of the extractor bit.

Any clue for the part number of the replacement screws?

Cheers

Nick

[N_Jay]

Did you drill off the head?

Most of the time they come out easy once the tension is gone.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by nickg5

Any clue for the part number of the replacement screws?

No, but Honda might be able to help you (Brandfon Honda is closest). If you can't find one, I think the front and rear screws are the same, and if you can get a good one off, you can match it up at your local Fastenal. There's one in North Haven, on Sacketts Point Road off of I-91.

[nickg5]

Originally posted by N_Jay
Did you drill off the head?

Most of the time they come out easy once the tension is gone.

nope. Unfortunately I chewed the phillips head off while I was trying to take them off. I used an electric impact screwdriver (screws would not budge). I am sure they are rusted after a couple winters in New England.