replaced my shocks struts

[scuba steve]

ibought a set of KYB GR-2s to install on my pilot. i have 74k miles on it and it was floating on the highway and the steering was feeling vague.

replacing macpherson struts isn't new to me and a very good friend of mine has a spacious garage with airtools.

compressing the springs for the front assemblies was the most difficult task, they are quite long and i used 3 pairs of spring compressors to do the task.

nothing terribly difficult about it except the weight of of the parts.

the rears are a breeze. i dropped the upper control arm and removing them was easy.

everything took me about 5 hours with a few breaks here and there.

the ride feels considerably more taut and controlled, no more float, no more vagueness. my wife is happy with the car again.

struts and shocks cost about $240. much cheaper and satisfying than shelling out the coin to let someone else so them.

if your pilot has 60k+ miles on it and you don't think the shocks and struts need replacing, you're fooling yourself.

[rocky]

I've done spring shocks and bushings on my off road truck. The springs and shocks were first replaced at 66k. Big improvement. I felt the bushings needed doing around 90k but for some reason put it off until 120k and boy that was a HUGE difference. Felt as tight as a new car.
So I'm with you Steve. Most people though don't notice any difference or weakness in their shocks and springs.

[ctobio]

On most of the cars I've worked on the last 10 years, I've used the KYB GR2's, which have produced good results. The exception has been my VW, which got Bilstein HD.

Bilstein doesn't make a replacement for the Pilot, not yet at least, though maybe they will by the time mine needs them.

I'm not a big fan of Monroe or Gabriel. They've always seemed kind of floaty to me.

[scuba steve]

yes, i agree. there are a LOT of rubber bushings on this car. i would like to think the california weather will treat them well. i replaced the bushings on my other car with polyurethane. after 16 years and three states (michigan, north carolina, and california) it was a huge improvement.

i have been pleased with KYB products in the past on other vehicles. the pilot just doesn't have many options in suspension replacement parts. i also looked for bilsteins, no luck (that would have been a great upgrade, i love the bilstein durability). i tried to find an insert from koni and tockico, but nothing seemed quite right.

people don't notice weakening dampers because they degrade slowly over time. i don't drive the pilot as much as my wife does, so she wasn't noticing the heaving over irregularities on the pavement. i just felt it was dangerous and wanted her to be safe with better control for daily driving.

[wcondor]

did you replace the strut mounts also?

[scuba steve]

nope. didn't need to.

[oliwa30]

I'm wondering if anybody posted DIY step by step and photo's for front struts replacement? specifically how to install new struts and compress spring and what steps and tools are needed ? Thanks for all replies

[belundy]

I don't have photos of the process, but a general primer can be found at:

http://www.partsource.ca/doityourself/JOM_April2005.asp

The spring compressors look like this:

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...ssor&Submit=Go

Some places--like autozone will lend you the compressors. A few autoshops have hydraulic compressors and will do it for $25 or so per. Well worth it, if you can find it.

You'll need two compressor sets as the pilot springs won't compress evenly or easily with only two points of contact top/bottom.

The clamshell things looks cool, but doesn't works as well as it appears, at least not without modifications...

[oliwa30]

Thanks for reply. Do you think this strut tool will do the job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96725

Thanks again

[youbetcha]

Originally posted by oliwa30
Thanks for reply. Do you think this strut tool will do the job?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=96725

Thanks again

If you have to ask this kind of question, I would seriously consider NOT doing this job yourself. I would either pay someone else to do it, or find someone who knows what they are doing, and have them help you.

I've done typical "DIY" jobs (fluids, etc) but I myself won't go near compressing automotive springs. Too dangerous.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by youbetcha

I've done typical "DIY" jobs (fluids, etc) but I myself won't go near compressing automotive springs. Too dangerous.

I've done plenty of struts before, and yes indeed, it is dangerous. Years ago when I worked at an auto parts store, I had a spring shoot off the strut compressor I was operating and go up about 6 feet in the air. Had I been in its way, it would have definitely hurt me badly.

One of the things I do when I compress springs is loop a heavy chain around the spring and basically tie it up in case the spring pops off the compressor.

[poinconeru]

I just did the brakes on my 03 Pilot (pretty happy to get 100k out of the original pads) and noticed that the front struts are leaking oil. Assuming that the strut mounts are fine, will I need any parts other than a pair of KYB GR-2s to complete the job (I've got a friend who will remove the springs and supervise me a bit)?

[belundy]

If the strut bearing is fine (and most folks report they are), and the dust boot isn't torn, then you need nothing else on that assy.

Check the stabilizer links--a weakness on Pilots-- while they are disconnected. Hold the link vertical and move the loose stud (the one disconnected from the strut) horizontal. If it droops when you let go, replace the links as they will soon rattle, if they don't already.

Check the lower control arm bushing--rubber doughnut looking thing--for any cracking, breaks or separation from its metal bushing. Best to examine while the car is on a lift with the wheel hanging.

The inner tie rod ends on Pilots are also a weak point and at 100k maybe shot or nearly so. Pull the tie rod bellow boot back so you can get your fingers on the joint, move tire vigorously back and forth. ANY play means they are toast. Check the tierods before doing the strut work.

Might as well do any work that messes with alignment, since you should have that checked after the strut work anyway.

[poinconeru]

Good stuff. Hearty appreciation for the tips.