looking for DIY to change/bleed brake fluid with pics

[il38694]

Did a search and found some discussions about bleeding brake fluid but no pictures. I will feel more comfortable with pictures because I never did any brake job before. Can someone show me the link with pics? I changed ATF, VTM, cabin filter. I want to change the brake fluid, but do not want to screw up the brake system.

[CMasten]

I would appreciate any reference to this one as well. There are many interesting videos on UTube.com if you type in Honda Pilot, some references and videos for bleeding brakes on other cars, but nothing on replacing the brake fluid on the Pilot.

Any Honda ASC mechanics out there want to help us out

[ctobio]

I'm going to do this in the spring to my Pilot. I have a Motive Power Bleeder, however, which makes bleeding a cinch.

Procedure goes like this.

Fill Power Bleeder with appropriate fluid (Pilot takes DoT3)
Attach power bleeder to brake fluid reservoir.
Pressurize bleeder tank to 15-20 psi, NO MORE.
Attack a clear vinyl hose to bleeder screw nipple, and loop the hose up and down into a bottle.
There's an order for bleeding, don't know it off the top of my head.
Loosen bleeder screw 1/4 turn. Fluid should start oozing out slowly. There should be no bubbles coming out the bleeder screw. Fluid color should be yellowish. Let it go until the fluid comes out clear, should be about 5-10 minutes per wheel.
Tighten the bleeder screw back up.

[CMasten]

so it sounds like you effectively just bleed out the bad fruid from the master cyninder to each wheel while drawing in good new fluid to replace it (or vise verse) and then thighten off the bleeder valve at the wheel and move on to the next?

I was thinking there was an issue with how the ABS was connected, or is that in line and by default gets the new fluid? its probably a much simplier system in total than I envision, the key is not getting any air in the lines which might just come with experience and patience.

[ctobio]

I've bled cars out like this before- including a '73 VW that I was flushing out ancient DoT-3 and replacing with DoT-5.

It's real easy if you have a power bleeder. ABS is a non-issue UNLESS air gets in it. Then you have a chore ahead.

[CMasten]

I see the Motive brand of Power bleeders all over. They seem pretty straight forward and reasonably priced. There is also a good section on how to use it and how they work

http://www.motiveproducts.com/10instruct.html

[ctobio]

Yep, that's the one I have. I have several adapters- two that screw directly to the reservoir cap for two of my cars (both VW's) and one that sort of clamps around the reservoir cap (adapter 1101). The latter is the type that I would be using on my Pilot when the time comes.

If you buy Motive Power Bleeder #0101, that should cover your Pilot.

[ctobio]

Bleed order is as follows, per the Service Manual:

LF, RF, RR, LR.

[CMasten]

very nice thanks for the useful info ctobio, I will get one ordered.

[ctobio]

Just remember- the brake fluid will be fairly slow to bleed out each bleeder- expect up to 10 minutes per wheel. My guess is that when all's said and done, you'll use up at least a quart of brake fluid, if not more, so I suggest you get a couple of quarts.

The Service Manual species DoT-3 Honda fluid, but I'm likely going to go with Valvoline Synpower DoT-3/4 fluid.

Incidentally, don't use DoT-5 fluid. It's incompatible with DoT-3/4 glycol based fluids.

[il38694]

Did a search in Amazon.com and found a review on the clamp type adapter.

http://www.amazon.com/review/product...owViewpoints=1

Any comments about this review?

[ctobio]

Interesting.

I haven't used the adapter he speaks of yet. I see no reason why it shouldn't work, however.

That said, I'm going to take a look in the garage at the setup and see what the problem may be.

10 PSI would probably be sufficient to bleed anyway. It just would take longer. I've never exceeded 15 PSI for a bleed.

[ctobio]

OK, I looked at the instructions at the 1101 adapter, and it says after assembly to pump to 10 PSI and see if it holds pressure.

I have a feeling that the design of the adapter is to not exceed 10PSI. This is sufficient to bleed in my experience. So... the reviewer needs to read his instructions. This adapter cap is VERY rigid. You would have to put a good deal of tightening on it to make it flex- enough to make me worry about cracking the brake fluid reservoir itself. You might also get a better seal using brake-system compatible silicone grease on the rubber components.

The screw cap adapter I have for both of my VWs doesn't have this issue, but on either of those I will not exceed 15 PSI.

Oh, so for cleaning the power bleeder after being done- I basically pump denatured alcohol through it and let it dry. When I rebuild brake components (wheel cylinders, master cylinders, etc), I usually wash them in soapy water first, then clean water, then denatured alcohol, and I then set them near my furnace to try. Pump gets the same treatment.

And a huge bit of advice:

REMEMBER TO DEPRESSURIZE THE TANK WHEN DISCONNECTING IT FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER, OR YOU WILL SPRAY BRAKE FLUID ALL OVER THE PLACE!!!

[ctobio]

Well, whaddaya know, old thread on brake bleeding where I said much of the same things as this thread...

Bleeding Brake Lines

[ED27]

I tried the Motive import adapter but could not get a good seal with the parts that came with the kit. In the end I just did not feel comfortable using it and as a result I went the MityVac MV6830. It's easy to use (requires an air compressor) and allowed me to bleed each wheel in about 15 minutes. For brake fluid I used ATE Super Blue (DOT4).....since it's blue it made it very easy to see when each wheel was done bleeding.