Easy DIY ATF Fluid Change PICs

[acalabria]

Thanks for the write-up. I will try this weekend!

[kevinssf]

i tried to loosen the drain plug...DAMN THAT THING IS TIGHT!

So technically, I havent really done anything yet. What did you guys do to loosen the drain plug? I'm thinking of finding an extension pipe like one of the other members if there is one lying around the house...

EDIT:
nevermind. I managed to find a pipe extension just like another owner on this forum and got it out. My fluid was as dark as oil though...and when i shined light on it, it gave off a dark purple color

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by kevinssf
i tried to loosen the drain plug...DAMN THAT THING IS TIGHT!

So technically, I havent really done anything yet. What did you guys do to loosen the drain plug? I'm thinking of finding an extension pipe like one of the other members if there is one lying around the house...

EDIT:
nevermind. I managed to find a pipe extension just like another owner on this forum and got it out. My fluid was as dark as oil though...and when i shined light on it, it gave off a dark purple color

That's why I change it more often.

How dirty was the magnet pick up?

[kevinssf]

Originally posted by Sunday Rider


That's why I change it more often.

How dirty was the magnet pick up?

well im at 106k miles now, and until then i never did the fluid change myself.
it was pretty dirty, almost as "dirty" as running a magnet through the sand on the beach.

I would say the magnet was pretty much covered in the stuff it caught, but the stuff wasn't thick

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by kevinssf


well im at 106k miles now, and until then i never did the fluid change myself.
it was pretty dirty, almost as "dirty" as running a magnet through the sand on the beach.

I would say the magnet was pretty much covered in the stuff it caught, but the stuff wasn't thick

If you change it even in half the recommended interval, you will see it will be dark fluid as well. It maybe okay, but it doesn't look or smell good to me. So I change mine every other oil change, which I know is over kill, but for the '03 anyway the tranny seems to be a weak link, I will keep the fluid as fresh as I can.

The stuff on your magnet is the same as what I get, fine stuff, but not lots, just a dusting I guess.

The rear VTM fluid is much cleaner when changed, almost seems like it is still new.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by Sunday Rider


If you change it even in half the recommended interval, you will see it will be dark fluid as well. It maybe okay, but it doesn't look or smell good to me. So I change mine every other oil change, which I know is over kill, but for the '03 anyway the tranny seems to be a weak link, I will keep the fluid as fresh as I can.

I had an analysis done by Blackstone Labs done on my transmission fluid at around 40k. This is what they had to say:

CONSTANTINO: On the whole wear looks good in this sample. While wear is above average, everything read in the proper balance and the high wear is likely due to new parts breaking-in as well as the long oil run. You could wait until 45,000 miles to change this fill, or you might want to do it now since iron is making the oil fairly abrasive. No moisture or insolubles were found and the viscosity of the oil read normally for an ATF.

[ctobio]

Well, I just changed my ATF and transfer case fluids. Nothing really spectacular to report. A few observations:

You need a little bit of torque to break the drain plugs for the transfer case and ATF. Best tool here seemed to be a 1/2 ratchet with a 3/8" adapter.

My ATF drain plug magnet had a pretty good coating of metallic sludge on it. Some of it was remarkably tenacious- I ultimately sprayed it with brake cleaner to get everything off.

Filling through the dipstick tube is the only way to go. My funnel- an old aluminum fuel filter housing that I cut off one end attached a piece of 5/16" vinyl tubing and a 5/16 piece of steel piping to. Fits perfect.

Fluid used:

0.5 qts of Mobil1 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil
3.75 qts of Honda ATF-Z1

[southtex]

Changed the transmission fluid in my 2008 this weekend. 17k miles; fluid didn't look too bad.

Performed several changes on my previous 2004 and it took exactly 3.75 qts. On my 2008, 3.75 qts was not enough. Ended up being right at 4.0 qts when checking hot 60-90 sec after engine off per manual.

Filled through the fill plug and a funnel with long skinny end. Worked good. I like it better than using the dipstick fill method. Don't have to mess with putting tubing on a funnel, then on the dipstck tube. Did that method on my 2004.

As others have mentioned, ATF fill plug was very, very tight. Had to use a 1/2" breakover bar and still had trouble. No reason they need it that tight at the factory. Looked to be way more than the recommended 33 ft-lb. Drain plug was very tight also. Used a 3/8" breakover bar to finally get it.

[ecsw]

finally did mine.

the maintenance minder never show atf as necessary. i am on 40,000 miles mark. then i realized it should be done at lease once every 2 years.

man, it was DIRTY. lots of deposit at the drain. The only difficult part is to fill it. my plastic tube was too big for my dip stick hole. spilled quite a bit everywhere.

what a difference after change. the change of gear felt a lot smooth now.

[eneal1081]

I am a new member, as I just bought a used 2005 Pilot. I figured what better way to "get to know" the car is by running through all the recommended PM's. First, the good news: The Honda dealer did the timing belt/water pump at 99K, just before they sold it to me.
Now the bad news, it does not appear that the ATF had been changed before. The ATF Fill plug was factory tight. I used a 16" extension on a deep well socket to get clear of the engine entirely. Then it took a breaker to pop it loose. The ATF drain plug was also factory tight. The fluid was not terrible, but certainly not good. There was some sludge-like particles on the magnet, but no slivers. I am going to change the fluid again at the next oil change to see if I can make up for lost time.

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by eneal1081
I am a new member, as I just bought a used 2005 Pilot. I figured what better way to "get to know" the car is by running through all the recommended PM's. First, the good news: The Honda dealer did the timing belt/water pump at 99K, just before they sold it to me.
Now the bad news, it does not appear that the ATF had been changed before. The ATF Fill plug was factory tight. I used a 16" extension on a deep well socket to get clear of the engine entirely. Then it took a breaker to pop it loose. The ATF drain plug was also factory tight. The fluid was not terrible, but certainly not good. There was some sludge-like particles on the magnet, but no slivers. I am going to change the fluid again at the next oil change to see if I can make up for lost time.

Welcome to the forum.
As you will find or found out, there is some great stuff here and great folks.

I change the tranny fluid every other oil change (I know kind of extreme), and find the "fuzz" around the magnet every time. The fluid never looks that great. The VTM4 on the other hand always looks and smells new. That one I change once a year.

The fluid may have been changed, but lots of dealers really put those things on too tight.

Good luck with your new ride.

[eneal1081]

I change the tranny fluid every other oil change (I know kind of extreme), and find the "fuzz" around the magnet every time. The fluid never looks that great. The VTM4 on the other hand always looks and smells new. That one I change once a year.

The VTM fluid looked nice on mine as well, but a few slivers of metal on the plug. About what others found in the other thread.[

[kcook73]

I had the dealer change the ATF and Diff fluid a year and a half ago. The other day I decided to do this maintenance myself (it had been 30,000 miles). No issue with the rear differential, the drain and fill plugs were tight, but I was able to get off with a breaker bar. However, when I tried to get the transmission drain plug off, I had to get a longer breaker bar, and ended up rounding out the hole for the 3/8" socket. The torque spec for this is 35 ft-lbs; I've got to the think this plug was severely overtorque by the dealer.

Any thoughts on how to get the plug out? I've had vice grips on it, and they slip. I've considered filing off a flat side on the plug, and giving that a shot. Also thought of having someone weld a nut onto it.

On the other hand, could I siphon the fluid out through the dipstick tube? Would I be able to get a flexible tube close to the bottom of the pan? Obviously wouldn't want to do anything that could potentially damage the transmission. The only limitation of this method seems to be not cleaning the metal particles off the magnet.

Any thoughts / help appreciated.

[reuqr3]

Nice instructions and pics. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the washer off the drain plug? Mine will only move about 1 mm from the seated postion and I am concerned about stripping the threads if I force it.

[carguy07]

Originally posted by reuqr3
Nice instructions and pics. Does anyone have suggestions on how to get the washer off the drain plug? Mine will only move about 1 mm from the seated postion and I am concerned about stripping the threads if I force it.

Unless it's really deformed, just reuse it. The wost thing that could happen is a very slow leak/drip from it (although not likely). If you really need to change it, the washer is pretty soft I would guess you could thread it off the plug without hurting the threads.