Easier Diy Cabin Air Filter Replacement

[humanoid]

Not sure why you're not seeing the pics, works fine on my end.

[chasd]

Thanks for the great post. It make the task very easy.

[countryclubhog]

i assume that this is the same for a 2007 ex-L.dealer wants 90.00 for them to do it.

[humanoid]

Yes, it should be the same.

[krazykarguy]

I may be missing it, but I didn't see an introduction forum, so let this serve as my intro:
I'm Matt, I have a 2007 Silver Honda Pilot EX-L. I live in VT and do all of my own maintenance related work.

I found this website looking for a DIY on this cabin filter, found this great write-up. Everything went smoothly until I dropped the glovebox, hacksaw in hand...

... and found that some dolt had not only cut off the required plastic piece, but the metal piece as well!!! It's gone - some people just should not be allowed to touch cars...

My question is this: is it necessary to replace the metal part, or can we continue on with it missing???

Thanks!

[brooklynpilot]

Originally Posted by Armystrong

Where the red arrow is, that is where the phillips head bold was that allowed me to lower the GB and let it dangle from the left side. Unscrew the other phillips bolt holding the metal brace in place.

i'm a little confused..... how did you remove the lowest bolt shown in post#8??? it looks like it's screwed in from the back and i can't get to it....

or wait, that was done in post#7 with the GB closed.....

(yes, defin slow today) lol

[rocky]

This is definitely one of those once you've done it its childs play jobs.

Congrats. and go pay yourself the $100 dealers want for it.

[brooklynpilot]

done, thanks for the detailed pics

[quietdragon]

Followed the instructions for my 2008 EX-L Pilot.

Originally Posted by Armystrong

I lifted the GB up in order to unscrew the bolt. This step can also be done prior to cutting the plastic mold off.

My vehicle required the 8mm socket for this step.

Originally Posted by Armystrong

Once you have removed the phillips head bolt and the 8mm bolt from the left side, do the same to the right side allowing you to move the metal brace down on the left side.

It took me a long time to figure out how to dislodge and rotate the metal brace. For my vehicle there are tabs on the metal brace that prevent the brace from rotating vertically. I had to pull the brace towards the interior of the cabin to get the tabs to clear their mounts, and only then was I able to rotate the brace down as shown in the picture.

[OhioBobcat2000]

I really appreciate the pics. I just undertook this bear on Thursday in my new to me 2008 and it certainly helped.

[quietdragon]

Originally Posted by krazykarguy

... and found that some dolt had not only cut off the required plastic piece, but the metal piece as well!!! It's gone - some people just should not be allowed to touch cars...

I suspect this is the part:

016 77551-S9V-A00ZZ FRAME, GLOVE BOX

[Slagle32]

Hey thanks so much for the details, I completed this job yesterday and the filter was filthy so it was a good thing. No easy job though compared to other vehicles. One follow up question, what do you do with the plastic cross piece that you have to cut off. I didn't see anyway to reconnect it so I am assuming you just leave it off, but if I am wrong please let me know.

[quietdragon]

Originally Posted by Slagle32

I didn't see anyway to reconnect it so I am assuming you just leave it off, but if I am wrong please let me know.

There is an earlier message saying that this plastic piece is not structural, so it's safe to discard it. I believe there's a post that suggests Honda makes the dash this way to make the fit more precise at the factory. On the other hand the backing metal strut being much sturdier is very likely there for structural integrity.

[pistonhonda]

Both of the DIY Cabin Filter threads have been a godsend.

My third CF change took quite a while and lots of adjustments because I didn't look through these two threads.
This fourth at 105,000 took a record sub-5minutes.

Thanks to the updates on this thread, I'm getting these things off more quickly. The key to it all (after the plastic crossbor is cut off if you're on your first CF change) is what comes in succession...

Remove the side clips in the glovebox.

Just start unscrewing/removing screws/bolts starting from underneath on the left side with glovebox closed...
then the two on left with glovebox open and supported...then remove the same two thingamajigs on the right with the glovebox again, open and supported.

Stop before removing the one underneath on the right side of the glovebox. Just leave that one alone, and don't loosen it either.

Then just "un-sandwich" the metal crossbar from the left side with enough force, even with the scews/bolt off on the left, it's not loosely sandwiched there is what I'm saying. But nothing is going to break if you're rough on that area since you already removed the 2screws/1bolt.

Everything else should be common sense from thereon regarding opening the cover and swapping filters.

After filter install, everything should be put back on exactly in reverse order...
Just make sure that on filter swaps, the glovebox and metal crossbar is dangling out of the way.
When filter cover is closed and you're dealing with the two screws/bolts on each side...make sure the the metal crossbar is sandwiched again and the glovebox is supported but open.
For that one screw/bolt underneath the left side...by this time closing the glovebox should make that part a breeze.

Finally...return the sideclips. That's about it.
I know most of this has been posted already, but I just thought we need to emphasize the importance of how the glovebox is positioned when dealing with screwing/unscrewing the screws/bolts.

[granpoob]

Count me in among the "initiated". Just completed the procedure for the 1st time and can tell you it's realy straight forward when following the advice on this forum. I cut the plativ piece off with an exacto knife. The plasic is very soft and the knife went through smoothly (careful, exacto's can de serious damage to eyes, fingers etc. Use safety goggles, gloves and go slowly and carefully). The filter was never changed by the dealership and was dirty with dry and wet leaves. I bought a discount filetr online for $12.50 delivered (dealership wanted $56.95 just for the filter) and $110 to do the full job. Thanks to everyone on the forum and especialy Army and the other "pioneers" !!! Next I want to try DIY Oil Change, Transmission Fluid and Differntial Fluid.