VTM fluid change

[ctgrain]

What happened to the threads on changing the vtm fluid. I thought I remember seeing posts with pics.

I've got an '05 EX-L. How much Honda fluid should I buy and is there any additive (modifiers) needed for my Pilot?

TG

[Medic721]

The fluid is sold in gallon jugs (purchased from the dealer). You will use about 3/4 of the container. No additives neded.

Here is the link you are looking for.

DIY VTM-4 (differential) Fluid change with pictures

-Mike.

[jestmaty]

The Acura dealer is a WHOLE lot more convenient for me to get to... so, I wonder if their VTM fluid for the rear fluid change is ok?

I know I used their radiator fluid (Acura) once when I thought I was a little low and smelled some cooking antifreeze...

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by jestmaty
The Acura dealer is a WHOLE lot more convenient for me to get to... so, I wonder if their VTM fluid for the rear fluid change is ok?

I know I used their radiator fluid (Acura) once when I thought I was a little low and smelled some cooking antifreeze...

Yes, Acura and Honda VTM-4 fluid is exactly the same.

[hillkw]

I changed my VTM-4 fluid last night.
I appreciated the pictures of the change I found on this site. Always reduces the fear for the 1st time.
I did not use a pump. I used 5 feet of 1/2" ID clear tubing on a funnel. I "Duct-taped" the lip of the funnel to the top of the rear bumper & fed the tube into the fill hole. I filled it til a little overflowed into my drain bucket. Went very well. Took almost a full 3 qts. that's a tad over what came out.

[patelmi]

I took my 04 Pilot to the dealer at 15000 miles for my first Diff change but know I have 33000 and decided to change it myself. However the bolt is still too tight I can not get it loose. Should the bolt be that hard to break loose?

[A6Pilot]

I had to use pipe extension on my 1/2" drive breaker bar to gently break the refill bolt loose. The drain bolt was easier to remove. Many other folks have reported that the servicing bolts were tough to remove. You may find the area easier to access with the spare tire removed.

TIP: Remove the top (refill) bolt before you remove the bottom (drain) bolt. That way you don't drain the fluid, only to find out you can't refill the assembly because the top bolt won't budge. It's happened to others. Finally, replace the crush washers with new, properly sized parts. The dealer has the proper ones.

patelmi-

Why do you feel you were "ripped off"? Certainly you have more of a claim to that expression than just, "the bolt is still too tight I can not get it loose."

[jestmaty]

Originally posted by jestmaty
The Acura dealer is a WHOLE lot more convenient for me to get to... so, I wonder if their VTM fluid for the rear fluid change is ok?

I know I used their radiator fluid (Acura) once when I thought I was a little low and smelled some cooking antifreeze...

Bought the Acura VTM fluid ( $1.00 more than Honda) and did the change today. It's my 3rd time to change the fluid.

I'm at 45,300 miles and follow the severe schedule because I tow.

Again, the fluid came out clean as the day it went in. I also noticed the sku # on the Honda jug was exactly the same as on the Acura jug (except Acura added an "a" at the end of the number)

All in all, very uneventful to change VTM fluid and it gives me a good excuse to lower the spare to clean it and check the air pressure in it.

Anybody know how much the dealer would have charged? My guess is that they double the price of the fluid to somewhere around $48 bucks and charge another $50 in labor.....

[ecsw]

I believe dealer charges $80cdn for changing the fluid which takes about 30 minutes or less to do and yet easier than oil change since there is no filter to be changed.

It's like the bolt on the tire. Once u hit it lose, it's very easy to remove it.

Glad my pictures are still helping.

[bigpav7]

what a pain in the A%^! Took forever to loosen the 2 bolts up. I had to use a braker bar and that barely did it. The entire diff. twisted down while I was struggling with the drain bolt - I really thought I messed something up. Filling it back up was yet even more messy. You really do have to have the right pump in order to fill it. I went through 2 of them and finally gave up about an hour later. My clothes, the entire rear end, the garage floor - everything was covered in VTM fluid. I drove to Autozone and picked up one of those handpumps that screw onto the bottle - 10 minutes later I was done. The moral of the story - make sure to have the right equipment before attempting this...

by the way, what would be some signs of the rear diff. not functioning properly?

[tim.s]

Originally posted by bigpav7
...by the way, what would be some signs of the rear diff. not functioning properly?

Normally, I'd say "oil on the rear end and on the garage floor", but in your case, this is just the result of normal service.

Thanks for the reminder/warning about the pump, I'm going to give this a go at the next service interval.

[jestmaty]

EVERYONE!!!!!!

USE THIS PUMP AND YOU'LL BE A VERY HAPPY CAMPER WHEN DOING YOUR VTM4 FLUID CHANGE!!!!

Sorry for shouting but this pump from any Autozone, Pep Boys, Advance, etc... will screw into the jug and make minimum mess.

[ncelk]

The local dealer here charges $95 to do it. The VTM4 fluid is $25. I just do it myself.

Matter of fact, bought the fluid today and am going to change the MDX tomorrow for the first time.

It is one of the easiest things to do if you can get the bolt loose.

[jestmaty]

It is one of the easiest things to do if you can get the bolt loose. [/B][/QUOTE]

I've noticed on the Pilot that at least one of the bolts seems to actually tighten itself up more after I've tightened it.

For instance, I've done my VTM 4 fluid 3 times now and both the fill bolt and the drain bolt are easily removed. But... the transmission filler bolt (17mm) is another story.

The bolt itself is gold in color and is a whole different metal than the tranny housing, which is of course aluminum and grey.

Every time I change the fluid in the tranny, I have to really muscle the filler bolt loose. I know I didn't tighten it THAT much last time...

At 30,000 miles I did a full flush which called for draining and filling 3 times. Each time I went to remove the filler bolt, it was very hard to break loose.

I think some of the aluminum housings seem to expand or contract differently than the threaded filler/drain bolts screwed into them. Is the term for this phenomenon called 'galling'? That is the only word that comes to mind.

No one should have to darn near twist the whole VTM unit almost off the car because of a stuck bolt.

[TomStromie]

I would love to pay $25 per gallon for the VTM4 fluid. I just picked up a gallon of it at the dealer for a little under $35!