DIY VTM-4 (differential) Fluid change with pictures

[honda10]

can some one tell me please how offen to change the rear differential fluid and what is the torque values for the fill and the drain blugs for pilot 2010? Thanks in advance

[giwan1259]

Originally Posted by knhellesky

Yes, really! I appreciate your concern, but I didn't know that re-using washers is frowned upon. Your sarcasm of me saving $6.65 is also noted.

More on a technical note then cost savings. Do the washers get compressed enough to go plastic, non-linear? I don't know the torque values or the material exactly, I thought it was AL and could calculate from there.

If they don't go plastic then they could be reused safely.

[theirishscion]

Originally Posted by honda10

can some one tell me please how offen to change the rear differential fluid and what is the torque values for the fill and the drain blugs for pilot 2010? Thanks in advance

When the Maintenance Minder tells you to do so. Check your owner's manual for the exact code to look out for. Broadly speaking, expect to do the service at 15,000, 30,000, 60,000 and every 30,000 thereafter.

The torque values are I believe 33ft-lbs for top and bottom plugs.

[theirishscion]

Originally Posted by giwan1259

More on a technical note then cost savings. Do the washers get compressed enough to go plastic, non-linear? I don't know the torque values or the material exactly, I thought it was AL and could calculate from there.

If they don't go plastic then they could be reused safely.

I don't have sufficient metallurgical expertise (or any, really, truth be told) to definitively answer your question. What I do know is that the washers are that nice soft annealed aluminium with the matte, almost fluffy finish to them, if you know what I mean, and the torque values are ~33ft-lbs for the rear diff. I think it's 29ft-lbs for the sump, which uses one of the same washers.

The washers are certainly permanently deformed after use, but if you're careful to stick to no more than the specified torque, they're only very slightly deformed and could very likely be used more than once. However, the default grease-monkey torque as applied by the highly skilled oil changers at the dealership or quickylubestone or wherever you might take it, that will generally leave it well and truly smushed. I think I have a couple good examples of the latter knocking around my garage somewhere, so grossly crushed that the inner edge bulges into the cavity between the sump and the drain plug threads like a plump girl's midriff making a concerted bid for freedom from her lycra yoga pants. I shall take cautionary-tale pictures of 'em if I spot them again.

[oejeffrey]

Well I went from changing car stereos to changing the VTM4 fluid myself !!! Not too hard at all...I did end up using a hammer to loosen the Drain bolt but one good W H A C K got it off with no problem.

I feel like a MANLY MAN doing MANLY things !!!!!!!!!!

[RSQ Pilot]

Originally Posted by oejeffrey

Well I went from changing car stereos to changing the VTM4 fluid myself !!! Not too hard at all...I did end up using a hammer to loosen the Drain bolt but one good W H A C K got it off with no problem.

I feel like a MANLY MAN doing MANLY things !!!!!!!!!!

Bulk up now so when you get to the tranny service you can break those bolts loose without the hammer.....I used an 18 inch breaker bar on the VTM Diff AND the ATF bolts and saved my knuckles

[theirishscion]

Originally Posted by RSQ Pilot

Bulk up now so when you get to the tranny service you can break those bolts loose without the hammer.....I used an 18 inch breaker bar on the VTM Diff AND the transfer case bolts and saved my knuckles

Heh. I swung my legs in under the RDX and used my (excellently toned and studly, if I do say so myself) legs to provide the oomph. It's amazing how much torque a human can apply to a drain plug with a leg, even through quite a short ratchet handle.

I also like this technique in that it keeps most of the important bits of me out from under the car while I'm shaking it around. Even though I am using jack stands religiously, I'm still acutely aware of how much they want to kill me.

Oh, and you're a lot less likely skin your knuckles when they're wearing hiking boots

Failing that, (and the leg/foot trick works directionally for the transfer case drain and fill, and VTM-4 fill and drain plugs, but not the ATF drain) a regular rubber mallet seems to work wonders, or indeed bracing against the front bumper and pulling firmly with both hands for the ATF drain.

[RSQ Pilot]

Originally Posted by theirishscion

Heh. I swung my legs in under the RDX and used my (excellently toned and studly, if I do say so myself) legs to provide the oomph. It's amazing how much torque a human can apply to a drain plug with a leg, even through quite a short ratchet handle.

I also like this technique in that it keeps most of the important bits of me out from under the car while I'm shaking it around. Even though I am using jack stands religiously, I'm still acutely aware of how much they want to kill me.

Oh, and you're a lot less likely skin your knuckles when they're wearing hiking boots

Failing that, (and the leg/foot trick works directionally for the transfer case drain and fill, and VTM-4 fill and drain plugs, but not the ATF drain) a regular rubber mallet seems to work wonders, or indeed bracing against the front bumper and pulling firmly with both hands for the ATF drain.

....previously I've left many Merrell footprints on the tires and undercarriage loosening things while maneuvering between jack stands and Rhino ramps...
Sláinte

[ecopeland]

My mechanic had a great idea for pumping the VTM fluid without having to buy a pump. He drills a hole in the top of the container cap so that you can put a length of tube long enough to reach the bottom of the container and long enouch to reach the top hole. He then punches a hole in the handle area so that he can insert the end of an air compressor blow tool. To get the fluid out of the container, force air into the bottle in short burst.

[carguy07]

Clever, but I think the $5 pump does the trick pretty well and does not drop shavings into the bottle.

[roarkrd]

I watched the mechanic change my VTM fluid the other day, and he pored the VTM fluid into a smaller, quart size bottle and dumped it into the rear diff.

[ArcticHonda]

Kudos to the dealer for giving me complimentary crush washers. The fill port uses a slightly larger diameter washer compared to the drain bolt on my 05'. 1 gallon cost me $35. I don't think my fluid has ever been changed but it was in really good condition and the magnet had very few metal shavings at 75,000 miles. Also, check the spare tire pressure while you have it off- mine was down to 16 psi and it should have been 60.

[carguy07]

Originally Posted by ArcticHonda

Kudos to the dealer for giving me complimentary crush washers. The fill port uses a slightly larger diameter washer compared to the drain bolt on my 05'. 1 gallon cost me $35. I don't think my fluid has ever been changed but it was in really good condition and the magnet had very few metal shavings at 75,000 miles. Also, check the spare tire pressure while you have it off- mine was down to 16 psi and it should have been 60.

I don't know if I would give them kudos for charging more than full retail for that fluid ($30 is MSRP). $21.91 at my local Acura dealer and $2 for the washers. Next time make them throw in a fluid pump and a reach around if they want that much. Just bustin your chops, you still saved a ton of $ doing it yourself.

[koala33]

Is the equipment for this the same as on the Acura MDX?

• 1 Gallon Jug of Honda VTM-4 Differential Fluid (p/n 08200-9003)
• 18mm & 20mm Crush Washers (p/n 90471-PX4-000 & 94109-20000)
• Differential Fluid Pump (e.g. Sta-Lube p/n SL4344)
• 3/8" Drive Socket Wrench (no socket required)
• 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (capable of 33ft-lbs)
• 3/8" Drive Extension
• Drain Pan
• Protective Latex Gloves
• Safety Glasses

[RSQ Pilot]

Originally Posted by koala33

Is the equipment for this the same as on the Acura MDX?

• 1 Gallon Jug of Honda VTM-4 Differential Fluid (p/n 08200-9003)
• 18mm & 20mm Crush Washers (p/n 90471-PX4-000 & 94109-20000)
• Differential Fluid Pump (e.g. Sta-Lube p/n SL4344)
• 3/8" Drive Socket Wrench (no socket required)
• 3/8" Drive Torque Wrench (capable of 33ft-lbs)
• 3/8" Drive Extension
• Drain Pan
• Protective Latex Gloves
• Safety Glasses

It'll do ya just fine

PS: if you have never broken the fill and drain bolts loose before you may need a cheater bar handle on the 3/8 drive wrench or 3/4 drive with at 3/8 adapter, they will be a bear to break loose