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Old 05-21-2006, 09:42 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Good Torque Wrench for the Pilot

Im looking for a decent torque wrench for lug nuts, and all the various places on the Pilot that one needs to pay attn to the amnt of torque I apply.

I have looked around at Sears and they go from total junk at 25.00 up into the 300 rather quickly. Is there a brand out there that is decent and one you would recommend for the 50.00 range? I dont own one so this would be a newbie wrench, but the one at Sears didnt look like it would last long

Thanks Piloteers!
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Old 05-21-2006, 11:18 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I'm quite partial to the sears products.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cegjdghldgfk.0

This one goes 20-150 ft-lb, which should cover most things. Note it is 1/2" drive, so for your 3/8" sockets you would need an adapter.

I actually have a 3/8" drive ratchet for smaller stuff that goes 10-75 ft-lb in addition to this one, that way I don't need to adapt anything)
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by ctobio
I'm quite partial to the sears products.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...cegjdghldgfk.0

This one goes 20-150 ft-lb, which should cover most things. Note it is 1/2" drive, so for your 3/8" sockets you would need an adapter.

I actually have a 3/8" drive ratchet for smaller stuff that goes 10-75 ft-lb in addition to this one, that way I don't need to adapt anything)
I appreciate the input thanks ctobio
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:39 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Try this one:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...Itemnumber=239
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:41 AM   #5 (permalink)
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There is a B&M in Montclair if you want to avoid the shipping charges and to take a look at the quality of the wrench before purchasing.
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Old 05-22-2006, 10:56 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by dontnomuch007
There is a B&M in Montclair if you want to avoid the shipping charges and to take a look at the quality of the wrench before purchasing.
very helpful, I will do that thanks dontnomuch007. Do you guys find that the smaller handled units are any easier to use than the longer ones? I looked over the ones at Sears and there are some that could double as crowbars! obviously related to the amount of ft/lbs of torque they can inflict. I was curious what the higher limits were for Pilot applications, 75lbs? for example what should the lug nuts be torqued to? I can look it up easy enough, but thought I would throw it out there. a simple list of basic values would be helpful.

Thanks again I very much appreciate your time and input to all.
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:21 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by CMasten


very helpful, I will do that thanks dontnomuch007. Do you guys find that the smaller handled units are any easier to use than the longer ones? I looked over the ones at Sears and there are some that could double as crowbars! obviously related to the amount of ft/lbs of torque they can inflict. I was curious what the higher limits were for Pilot applications, 75lbs? for example what should the lug nuts be torqued to? I can look it up easy enough, but thought I would throw it out there. a simple list of basic values would be helpful.

Thanks again I very much appreciate your time and input to all.
The lug nuts should be 80 lbf.ft (79.6 in repair manual or 11.0 kgf-m). If you get more into it there is a spindle nut that calls for 181 lbf.ft. I think that is the highest I have seen. By the way I always thought they were foot pounds or ft.lb, but in the manual it says lbf.ft

You know you need both wrenches. Just don't do like me, I bought one that looked massive so I assumed it would be ft.lb, but it was in.lb. I didn't clue in until it kept giving me the slip at what appeared to be finger tight torque. I was so glad because I got it on sale, but it was the wrong kind (duh). It is great for carb. work on my bike though
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Old 05-22-2006, 11:51 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Yah, you need to be careful of the different units. Normally the smaller drives (1/4" are in in-lbs) and the larger 3/8" or 1/2" drives are in ft-lbs.
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Old 05-22-2006, 12:03 PM   #9 (permalink)
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AND!!!!!

Don't use it as a breaker bar. That is a sure way to put it out of calibration!
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Old 05-22-2006, 03:06 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by N_Jay
AND!!!!!

Don't use it as a breaker bar. That is a sure way to put it out of calibration!
From just using it a couple of times, eventually you'll need to have it recalibrated. I always have my torque wrench recalibrate @ work at least every two years. I always find my snap-on torque wrench off by as much as +/- 4lb-ft.
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Old 05-22-2006, 04:31 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by john802


From just using it a couple of times, eventually you'll need to have it recalibrated. I always have my torque wrench recalibrate @ work at least every two years. I always find my snap-on torque wrench off by as much as +/- 4lb-ft.
OK John.. so make a day trip to come out to your work and get my torque wrench adjusted and a full tank of gas!

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Old 05-22-2006, 04:51 PM   #12 (permalink)
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John, where do you work and what do you do?
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Old 05-22-2006, 04:57 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I always liked craftsman, because Sears will replace them for free. I have had several craftsman tools replaced over the years.
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
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John, where do you work and what do you do?
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Old 05-22-2006, 05:05 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
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John, where do you work and what do you do?
these kinds of things are revealed at our Pilot Meets

I know you had to work but next time.
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