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Old 12-25-2005, 07:41 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default hand pump for VTM

I am looking for a hand pump to change the VTM fluid. anyone have a photo to show me what type of hand pump will work fine? OR what is the name of the hand pump? I suppose to buy it in the auto shop right?

Thanks
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Old 12-25-2005, 09:05 AM   #2 (permalink)
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It is a standard transmission fluid pump.
They are usually about $5

Just ask, or walk down the isle at Walmart looking at the stuff near the transmission gear oil bottles.
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Old 12-25-2005, 02:21 PM   #3 (permalink)
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thanks a lot
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Old 12-29-2005, 09:18 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Default Re: hand pump for VTM

Quote:
Originally posted by raymondaecom
I am looking for a hand pump to change the VTM fluid. anyone have a photo to show me what type of hand pump will work fine? OR what is the name of the hand pump? I suppose to buy it in the auto shop right?

Thanks
I am going to change my VTM fluid this weekend, I am guessing this 5.00 pump looks something like this? I have not picked up the Honda fluid yet, but am guessing that is sold in Gallon jugs that this just threads onto?

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...partnumber=816
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:25 PM   #5 (permalink)
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That's the exact pump I used when I change my VTM-4 fluid. Works great! Attach that small enclosed tube to the bottom of the pump, so you can suck up the fluid on the bottom of the container.

Tip ...
Remove the upper fill bolt first, before you remove the lower drain bolt. That way, if the upper bolt can't be removed (It's usually secured VERY tightly), you haven't drained the oil, and you can still operate the car.
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:42 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by A6Pilot
That's the exact pump I used when I change my VTM-4 fluid. Works great! Attach that small enclosed tube to the bottom of the pump, so you can suck up the fluid on the bottom of the container.

Tip ...
Remove the upper fill bolt first, before you remove the lower drain bolt. That way, if the upper bolt can't be removed (It's usually secured VERY tightly), you haven't drained the oil, and you can still operate the car.
Whoa... very good advice, thanks A6Pilot! Did you reuse the washers or do you need to replace those ea time? I can often get 2 uses out of my oil washers by just flipping them over if I dont have a spare. These might be more critical and I think they are cheap enough.
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Old 12-29-2005, 11:50 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I replace my washers with stock Honda parts. Paranoid, I guess.

They're called crush washers for a reason, I suppose.
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Old 12-31-2005, 02:19 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Thanks folks, with all the guidance up here, changing out the VTM-4 fluid was a snap. For $25.00 its a good idea at your first year, I have just under 12,000 miles and there was a fair amount of shavings on the magnetic drain bolt. If nothing else peace of mind is worth the money. Filler bolt is a bear, but did this cold, first thing in the am and hit both bolts with some lubricant to help me open them. Didnt take a ton of effort and they came right off. Definitely worth $50.00 of my time for a half hour job, and 25 minutes of it is just letting the fluid drain out!

both washers didnt have any imprints on them at all, I replaced them anyways, but would have been easy enough to just put them back on.
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Old 01-03-2006, 12:05 PM   #9 (permalink)
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The drain bolt on mine was tighter than the fill bolt. Was able to loosen the fill bolt normally (with a strong pull), but had to put the socket wrench on the drain bolt and pound on the handle with a piece of 2x4.
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Old 01-03-2006, 02:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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For all those DIY-ers - did you need to jack up the front end to get to the bolts? Or is there enough clearance to crawl underneath the front end? Looking to do it for the first time this week. Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2006, 04:33 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by raining79
For all those DIY-ers - did you need to jack up the front end to get to the bolts? Or is there enough clearance to crawl underneath the front end?
I guess you could do that, but it wouldn't help much considering the VTM is in the back .

Seriously, there's plenty of ground clearance under the rear of the Pilot that you don't need to jack it up to get to the VTM.

For the oil change, I jacked up the front-right and removed the wheel/tire. I've read that you can just turn the wheel all the way to the right, but I had to rotate the wheels anyway, and it'd be tough to get to the drain bolt with the wheel on.
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Old 01-03-2006, 05:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Oops, thanks for pointing that out (although I probably would've figured it out once I was under the car... "hey, where did the bolts go?")



Quote:
Originally posted by onu2002
I guess you could do that, but it wouldn't help much considering the VTM is in the back .

Seriously, there's plenty of ground clearance under the rear of the Pilot that you don't need to jack it up to get to the VTM.

For the oil change, I jacked up the front-right and removed the wheel/tire. I've read that you can just turn the wheel all the way to the right, but I had to rotate the wheels anyway, and it'd be tough to get to the drain bolt with the wheel on.
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Default Thanks!

Thanks for all the good information!!

2 gals of VTM-4 fluid and 2 sets of crush washers: $42.00 at the local dealer (figured I'd get it in advance to save me the trip next time)

Got the hand pump at the Advance Auto Parts for $6.50

Total time to do - approx 30 mins start to finish.

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Old 01-14-2006, 11:19 AM   #14 (permalink)
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How do you know when its full? Can you overfill it and do damage like the transmission?
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Old 01-14-2006, 11:33 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally posted by Sportymonk
How do you know when its full? Can you overfill it and do damage like the transmission?
The filler hole is a bit larger than the drain hole (dont go there!) so when your refilling it, it starts to seep out when its full, you will know right away trust me
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