DIY: Brake Rotor/Pad Install (lots of pics)

[GrimReaper]

Hey gang,

I didn't see too many DYI's in this forum so I thought I'd make a contribution. I recently changed out my front rotors and pads and took some pics. Hopefully this will be helpful. It took me about 1 hour from start to finish to get this done. I'm not a pro by any stretch of the imagination, but I am pretty handy with the tools .

(DISCLAIMER): Please keep in mind that these procedures are what worked for me and my situation. Your situation may be different so I cannot take responsibility for your results.

These are the tools that I used:


1. 1/2" breaker bar/ratchet
2. 3/8" ratchet w/ 12mm socket (or a 12mm combo wrench)
3. 17mm socket
4. Torque wrench(es) (there are two pictured, but as long as you have one that will do 27 lb-ft and 80 lb-ft, you should be good)
5. Impact driver
6. Jack
7. Jack stands
8. Wheel chocks
9. Hammer
10. Caliper spreader (not pictured)

I also had on hand:
1. Brake cleaner
2. PB Blaster (WD40, Liquid Wrench)
3. Anti-seize lubricant
4. Disk Quiet (not pictured)

1. First order of business is to chock the back wheels, loosen the lugnuts, jack up one side and brace it with a jackstand.
2. Then remove the lugnuts and the wheel

[GrimReaper]

3. Next, remove the flange bolt on the caliper (circled in red)


4. Swing the caliper up.


5. Remove the old brake pads


(If you're only changing the pads, then you can skip down to step 13)

6. Swing the caliper back down and screw the flange bolt back in (this is just so the caliper doesn't swing around so no need to screw on all the way. A few turns will suffice)

7. Look on the backside of the caliper bracket. There should be two 17mm screws (circled in red). Remove those two bolts. These are generally on pretty tight so you'll have to use some elbow grease to get them off.


8. Remove the entire caliper assembly off the rotor and place in a secure place. Be careful not to pull on the brake line. I like to use zip ties and tie it to the suspension.

[GrimReaper]

9. Now comes the rotor. If the rotor on your car has never been removed before, there are probably a couple of retaining screws holding it in. It is not a good idea to try and remove these with a regular screwdriver. The heat from the rotors has most likely seized these in place. This is where the impact screwdriver comes into play. You can pick one up for ~$20 at a local automotive shop. Trust me it's a godsend. Spray these screws with PB Blaster (or some other penetrant) and let it sit for a bit. Then take the impact screwdriver and hammer the screws loose.


10. Now the rotor should just slide off.


Now you're ready to install the new rotor. Installation is simply the reverse of the removal.

11. Install the new rotor

After installing the rotor, use Brake Cleaner to remove any oil residues from the rotor.

12. Install the caliper bracket assembly. Torque these bolts to 79.6 lb-ft (as per the Helms manual).

13. Swing the caliper back up and install the new pads. When installing the pads, use Disc Quiet between the backing plates to eliminate squeal.


14. Use the caliper spreader to spread the piston flush against the caliper. I like to use the old pad as a flat surface to push against, but this is not necessary.


15. Swing the caliper back down and screw in the flange bolt. Torque the flange bolt to 27 lb-ft.

16. At this point, clean the wheel studs with a brush and apply a thin coat of anti-seize lubricant to the studs. There's no need to go overboard with the anti-seize.

17. Put the wheel back on and torque the lugnuts to 80 ft-lbs in an alternating pattern (star-pattern)

18. go have a beer. You're done!

[humanoid]

Great write-up, thanks a bunch!

[N_Jay]

Very good!

Except.

1) You are supposed to remove the bracket holding the brake hose to the strut to prevent pulling or bending the hose too much.

2) Clean the Rotor before installing, as it is hard to get the back perfectly clean after it is installed. (Re-clean after to make sure you have any dirt or oil from your hands off the rotor.)

3) DO install the screws that hold the rotors. If they were not supposed to be there they would NOT be included in the kit with the replacement rotors.
(A little dab of anti-seize on the threads is well worth while)

4) The Honda pad kits comes with the proper lubricant for the pad backs and each pad has two shims. Make sure you put them on the same way the old ones came off.

5) While you are there you MUST inspect all the rubber boots.
The caliper mounting bolts can come loose and let dirt and water in. If they are off at the ends you need to refill them with moly grease (CV joint grease). If they are torn you must replace them.

While you are at it you should inspect the CV joint boots.

These are the types of things that are often missed by shadetree mechanics and cause problems later on.

6) My shop teacher would give you a detention for using a wood working (claw) hammer on metal. The proper tool is a ball peen , or other metal working hammer.

[wwong]

Great write up. Got to change my front pads soon. Your DIY install will definitely help.

[N_Jay]

One more quick note for the first timer.

The brake calipers should be DRY (No signs of any brake fluid leakage, not even seepage)
If you see any signs of seepage, especially from around the pistons it is time to replace the calipers.

Also, not shown in the pictures, it is important to gently clean off the rubber boots around the pistons. When you push the piston back in the boot folds up on itself, and any dirt or grit can start wearing hole in it.

Also, IF the brake fluid has been topped up there is a chance that the master cylinder can over flow while you are pushing the pistons back in.

This is why it in most cases you DO NOT want to top up the brake fluid.

The reservoirs is designed to be full when the brakes are new and still have sufficient reserve when the brakes are worn.

replacing the brake fluid is best done AFTER replacing the pads to prevent over flowing.

Since you have just pushed some of the worst fluid (most over heated) in the system back into the reservoir it is a good idea to change the fluid soon after changing the pads.

[wwong]

Also, not shown in the pictures, it is important to gently clean off the rubber boots around the pistons. When you push the piston back in the boot folds up on itself, and any dirt or grit can start wearing hole in it.

What do you clean with?

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by wwong
Also, not shown in the pictures, it is important to gently clean off the rubber boots around the pistons. When you push the piston back in the boot folds up on itself, and any dirt or grit can start wearing hole in it.

What do you clean with?

I use a shop towel with a little brakeclean.

[GrimReaper]

Originally posted by N_Jay
Very good!

Except.

1) You are supposed to remove the bracket holding the brake hose to the strut to prevent pulling or bending the hose too much.

2) Clean the Rotor before installing, as it is hard to get the back perfectly clean after it is installed. (Re-clean after to make sure you have any dirt or oil from your hands off the rotor.)

3) DO install the screws that hold the rotors. If they were not supposed to be there they would NOT be included in the kit with the replacement rotors.
(A little dab of anti-seize on the threads is well worth while)

4) The Honda pad kits comes with the proper lubricant for the pad backs and each pad has two shims. Make sure you put them on the same way the old ones came off.

5) While you are there you MUST inspect all the rubber boots.
The caliper mounting bolts can come loose and let dirt and water in. If they are off at the ends you need to refill them with moly grease (CV joint grease). If they are torn you must replace them.

While you are at it you should inspect the CV joint boots.

These are the types of things that are often missed by shadetree mechanics and cause problems later on.

6) My shop teacher would give you a detention for using a wood working (claw) hammer on metal. The proper tool is a ball peen , or other metal working hammer.

1. Good point. This step is recommended in the Helms manual. I skip this step b/c the way I strap the caliper onto the strut puts no undue stress on the brake line. YMMV

2. Good idea. This would make it more thorough cleaning.

3. I don't particularly agree with this, but I see your point. I think I may change my recommendation on that; however, the torque specs on these screws is very light (don't recall off the top of my head) and considering that the wheel hub braces the rotor and those are torqued on at 80 lb-ft, I can't imagine these screws having a significant purpose other than holding them onto the hub during install. But some people might feel uneasy having leftover parts, so by all means put them back in if it makes you feel more comfortable. They obviously don't hurt anything. I personally leave them off out of habit since I take the rotors off/on my other car on a regular basis for track days. If you do decide to put these back on, be sure and use anti-seize as recommended by N_Jay

4. The Honda pads do come with new shims/lubricant for use, but if you happen to buy aftermarket, then they don't. Just fyi.

5. This is also a good idea. I check all my rubber boots twice a year. I clean them off and use some silicone spray to condition them. If you don't do this regularly, then this would be a good time as long as the wheels are off.

6. Strangely enough, I don't even own a real hammer (just a deadblow). I had to borrow this one from my father.

[GrimReaper]

Originally posted by N_Jay

Also, IF the brake fluid has been topped up there is a chance that the master cylinder can over flow while you are pushing the pistons back in.

This is why it in most cases you DO NOT want to top up the brake fluid.

The reservoirs is designed to be full when the brakes are new and still have sufficient reserve when the brakes are worn.

This is a great point and one I forgot to mention. Also, if your resevoir does overflow, please wipe this up IMMEDIATELY. Brake fluid is very bad for the paint and will eat away at it.

[seadog]

How about opening the brake fluid bleeder before compressing the caliper piston so all the "worst" brake fluid does not get forced back into the lines (probably not all the way back to the master cylinder). I think someone on this board in an earlier post on brake jobs also suggested this.

[GrimReaper]

Wouldn't that risk introducing air bubbles into the lines (someone correct me if I'm wrong)? I would think that this would be a more viable option if you had speedbleeders on.

[N_Jay]

Yes opening the bleeder works, but you do have to watch not to let air in.

The best and easiest is just to do the fluid change after the brakes (which coincidentally last about 3 years)

[hondaman2]

DIY BRAKE JOB