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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pewaukee WI
Posts: 1,605
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I was reading the owner's manual and noticed that for all fluids they recommend using Honda brand stuff. I know this is not uncommon as most manufacturers will do this. What I want to know is do I really need to use Honda brand fluids for everything or just certain things?
In particular, I'm referring to the following: 1. antifreeze/coolant 2. automatic transmission fluid 3. rear differential fluid 4. brake fluid 5. power steering fluid From reviewing other threads, it seems that for the rear differential fluid it's best to stick with the Honda brand, but I wasn't sure about the others. I know for oil and oil filters, I don't have to use Honda brand. Thanks.
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1995 Yamaha FZR600 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L (Desert Rock Metallic, side steps, crossbars, rear splash guards, wheel locks, towing package, full-size spare on EX rim) 2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 sedan (Alabaster Silver Metallic, splash guards, wheel locks) |
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#2 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chicago, NW Burbs
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Quote:
1) yes if you want to keep Honda's extended schedule, but any good ALUMINUM engine coolant if you want to go to a 2 year schedule. Most recommend sticking with Honda premix (Tap water is bad). 2) Yes, none are fully compatible. (not even the super duper synthetics) 3) YES, YES, YES!!! It is a unique fluid and VERY sensitive to contamination. (use a clean or new pump!) 4) No one has said much one way of the other, but I would not mix for top ups. I would feel safe with any GOOD DOT3 or DOT4 for a full change out. 5) Seems Honda's are picky about there hydraulic fluids, even this one. YES, use Honda.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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The greatest strength is gentleness. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Member
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Location: Puyallup, WA
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I, too noticed low reading on my coolant level when I took delivery of my 06 Pilot. Now some of you are saying that the coolant you get at the dealer is pre mixed 50/50. Is that correct? Cause, when I got my from the dealer, I went home and added 50 H2O to it before topping it off.
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#5 (permalink) | |
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You MUST use distilled or at least RO water, so pre-mix is the way to go for most people. Unless you have a problem, (or like filling it to the MAX line just to have it spit out on the road) most people will never need any let alone a whole gallon.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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The Honda coolant container says right on it, "Do not add water". I don't believe the type I is available, unless someone has an overstock. The first batch of type II coolant was green, but they changed it to blue awhile back.
Please read the label. I don't understand. Most people buy Honda for the reputation/quality. Then some change everything they can to cheap, aftermarket. (Oil filter, air filter, fluids, etc.). IMO the Honda filters, fluids, etc. are superior.
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For those that fight for it, freedom has a flavor the protected will never know. PLEASE READ YOUR OWNERS MANUAL |
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#8 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pewaukee WI
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Why would you pay more because it has "Honda" stamped on it when you can get the same (or an equivalent) product for less? It appears that certain fluids aren't available to the consumer (i.e. transmission fluid, antifreeze/coolant, VTM-4 fluid) under a different brand name, but for things like oil filters, oil and air filters... you can get definitely pay less for an equivalent (or superior) product. As an example, Fram makes oil filters for Honda in North America. BTW, the Acura dealer I go to uses Castrol GTX in just about all vehicles that they service. If Honda oil was superior, wouldn't they use it?
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1995 Yamaha FZR600 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L (Desert Rock Metallic, side steps, crossbars, rear splash guards, wheel locks, towing package, full-size spare on EX rim) 2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 sedan (Alabaster Silver Metallic, splash guards, wheel locks) |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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I don't think anyone here (well maybe some) think that the fluids are somehow "better" because they are "Honda Branded".
The issue is whether there are appropriate "aftermarket" fluids available to substitute. In the case of most of the specialty type hydraulic fluids, ATF, VTM-4, DPF, PSF, it seems there are no suitable substitutes due to the unique properties specified by Honda and supplied by their OEMs. In the case of the Brake fluid and coolant, I would believe that any quality brand designed for the application (i.e. ABS, for brake fluid, and "long life" use in aluminum engines ) would be acceptable, but that mixing brands is not a good idea in either case. As for oil, any certified brand should be fine.
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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#10 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Pewaukee WI
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Quote:
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1995 Yamaha FZR600 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L (Desert Rock Metallic, side steps, crossbars, rear splash guards, wheel locks, towing package, full-size spare on EX rim) 2007 Honda Accord EX-L V6 sedan (Alabaster Silver Metallic, splash guards, wheel locks) |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: San Francisco North Bay
Posts: 13
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Just as a point of amusement regarding "branded" oil: When Toyota was forced to face the "sludge" problem with some of their engines a few years ago, they denied it was their fault - poor maintenance by the owner was the cause according to them. When those who had experienced siezed engines explained that they changed their oil even more frequently than recommended by Toyota and, in some cases, people were using quality synthetic, the official response by a Toyota rep posted on the Internet was ..."you didn't use Toyota brand oil"!
Ultimately, I found out from a former Toyota mechanic that the sludge problem had nothing to do with any kind of oil, but was the result of an engine design problem that led to accelerated crankcase contamination which tended to clog up the very fine wire mesh Toyota used for the oil pump inlet. I found that on my '02 Camry SE V6 that no matter what oil I used and how frequently I'd change it, carbon would build up on the odd "shelf" of the cylinder head directly underneath the oil filler cap and then flake off in chunks, falling down into the pan. This stuff would likely get stuck in the inlet screen to the oil pump. Over time, this could be a major problem. Nobody makes angines better than Honda, so any quality brand engine oil changed 3k to 4k miles should be perfectly fine -- and no sludge problems with Honda engines, too! |
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#12 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Chicago, NW Burbs
Posts: 13,545
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Quote:
"so any quality brand engine oil changed on teh recommended schedule should be perfectly fine"
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However beautiful the strategy, you should occasionally look at the results. Sir Winston Churchill |
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