Oil change

[sjlee]

I normally change the oil on all my vehicles, so I'm planning on doing the same with my newly purchased Pilot. I have some questions:

1. Is there enough clearance to get to the drain plug and filter without jacking it up?
2. Where can I get drain plug washers (besides the dealer)? I got a handful of ones for free from the dealer for my Acura, would these work (I wasn't sure if Honda used the same washers across all their cars).
3. Do I really need a "special wrench" to remove the oil filter?
4. What filter # do I use? I normally use SuperTech and Quaker State/Purolator Premium Plus filters.

Thanks in advance for any help.

[Sportymonk]

Well, I haven't tried in on my Pilot but on my old Fords, if you couldn't get the filter off you just took a hammer and a screwdriver and drove the screwdriver through the filter and use the screwdriver to twist it off. Have a big pan as it will leak on both sides of the filter since there will be two holes from the screwdriver.

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by sjlee
I normally change the oil on all my vehicles, so I'm planning on doing the same with my newly purchased Pilot. I have some questions:

1. Is there enough clearance to get to the drain plug and filter without jacking it up?
2. Where can I get drain plug washers (besides the dealer)? I got a handful of ones for free from the dealer for my Acura, would these work (I wasn't sure if Honda used the same washers across all their cars).
3. Do I really need a "special wrench" to remove the oil filter?
4. What filter # do I use? I normally use SuperTech and Quaker State/Purolator Premium Plus filters.

Thanks in advance for any help.

1. lots of room
2. I get them from the dealer, not sure about Acura size, maybe buy the fist one, and see if it is the same size as Acura
3. Nothing special, just regular "strap" wrench, once you do it your self, you will only hand tighten, and next time you will not need a wrench
4. I have used OEM (once the guy threw in the washer, next time he didn't) and Mobil 1 at times, but don't have the #s.

Very easy, just watch out for the oil filter, it is on an angle so it drips on the plastic tray a bit, at least on the 03 it does.

[Sportymonk]

Originally posted by Sunday Rider


1. lots of room
......
Very easy, just watch out for the oil filter, it is on an angle so it drips on the plastic tray a bit, at least on the 03 it does.

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by Sportymonk

LOL Sporty.
Okay next time I will try to remember the camera. I am sure there is a thread on this somewhere.

[colorider]

Originally posted by sjlee
I normally change the oil on all my vehicles, so I'm planning on doing the same with my newly purchased Pilot. I have some questions:

1. Is there enough clearance to get to the drain plug and filter without jacking it up?
2. Where can I get drain plug washers (besides the dealer)? I got a handful of ones for free from the dealer for my Acura, would these work (I wasn't sure if Honda used the same washers across all their cars).
3. Do I really need a "special wrench" to remove the oil filter?
4. What filter # do I use? I normally use SuperTech and Quaker State/Purolator Premium Plus filters.

Thanks in advance for any help.

A few easy searches and you will find answers for all of your questions.

If you haven't tried the search function, you should as it's very interesting to read all the threads on various subjects.

[markjmay]

All the Honda Purests will gasp:

Plenty of clearance to get the oil plug off.
I've never replaced the gasket washer on any vehicle. Just clean it and reuse it.
Oil filter is very easy to get off. Use filter wrench if necessary. Or removing the passenger side tire gives easy access.
I change every 4k miles, use strictly Supertech 10W30 and Supertech 7317 filter. I trust the SAE "SJ" rating enough to believe Walmart oil is fine for my vehicles.

83k trouble-free miles on my '03 Pilot.

Mark in MA

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by markjmay
All the Honda Purests will gasp:

. . .use strictly Supertech 10W30 . . .

You are right about the SJ rating but I would stick with the recommended viscosity

[rnd243]

Originally posted by sjlee
I normally change the oil on all my vehicles, so I'm planning on doing the same with my newly purchased Pilot. I have some questions:

This was the most helpful thread I've seen on doing the actual oil change.

http://hondapilot.org/forums/showthr...threadid=9147&

[acoustikrage]

eh, don't mean to hijack this thread, just have a couple quick questions.

1. i'm planning to switch to mobil 1 synthetic, do i need to do any kind of engine flush/clean? or can i just pour it straight in? the pilot has about 35k miles on it.

2. anything else i should check at each oil change?

i decided to start doing simple maintainence on our family cars by myself recently, so everything's new. thanks.

[sjlee]

1. No, you don't need to flush the oil system if you are switching to synthetic. The minimal amount of conventional oil that's left in the engine won't make a difference.

2. Just top off all the fluids, check the air in the tires and change the oil filter.

Just curious, how often do you plan on changing the oil after you switch to synthetic?

Originally posted by acoustikrage
eh, don't mean to hijack this thread, just have a couple quick questions.

1. i'm planning to switch to mobil 1 synthetic, do i need to do any kind of engine flush/clean? or can i just pour it straight in? the pilot has about 35k miles on it.

2. anything else i should check at each oil change?

i decided to start doing simple maintainence on our family cars by myself recently, so everything's new. thanks.

[acoustikrage]

Originally posted by sjlee

Just curious, how often do you plan on changing the oil after you switch to synthetic?

anywhere between 5-7k miles. we also have a toyota tacoma that i'm planning to put mobil 1 into. toyota recommends 5k between changes, so i figure i'll just do them at the same time. although, i probably could extend the intervals a little with synthetic...

[sjlee]

Originally posted by acoustikrage

anywhere between 5-7k miles. we also have a toyota tacoma that i'm planning to put mobil 1 into. toyota recommends 5k between changes, so i figure i'll just do them at the same time. although, i probably could extend the intervals a little with synthetic...

You could definitely extend the intervals on a good full synthetic like Mobil 1. A conventional oil can handle 5k mile intervals no problem.

[VegaMan]

There was a commercial on TV for Slick 50, I believe, that stated "starting your engine was a bad thing" because the oil is "in the pan" and not circulating in the engine. Somewhere else I heard that most engine friction happens at startup for the same reason. This being true, then the worst thing you could do is change your oil ...if you don't prime the new filter with new oil. With an empty oil filter installed, it takes an extra three or four seconds before the oil pump fills it up (depending on filter size and pump volume) and then starts the oil circulating under pressure through the engine. Next time you change your oil, watch the red indicator on the dash for engine oil pressure and see how long it stays lit on a dry filter. Priming makes a difference, so long as the filter attaches in an upward manner as on the Pilot. I doubt the dealership or oil changers prime new filters. When I asked the Mazda service folks to make sure they primed the filter the one and only time I had them do an $80 oil change on my Mazda 3, I got an irritated glance back.

I recently looked at the new '05/'06 Toyota Tacoma and the sales rep had to show me how Toyota made oil changing for do-it-your-selfers much easier ...by mounting the oil filter at the top front of the engine - upside down! I told the guy that there was no priming a new filter on this engine. Bad move, Toyota!

[xGS]

Originally posted by VegaMan


[snip]

I recently looked at the new '05/'06 Toyota Tacoma and the sales rep had to show me how Toyota made oil changing for do-it-your-selfers much easier ...by mounting the oil filter at the top front of the engine - upside down! I told the guy that there was no priming a new filter on this engine. Bad move, Toyota!

Do two wrongs make a right?