Was going to do the adjustable camber arms on the rear of the '04 Pilot. Looked at shocks and figured i may as well do them while i'm in there.
Looking rock and other part places... do the kyb shocks require the shock bushing that is listed separately... or is that a replacement part if you aren't gonna replace a whole shock?
also...do the mounting bolts need to be replaced... or should the originals be reusable?
Don't wanna order crap and find out i need that "one more thing" to finish.
If you have the right size (small) ball joint tool, it is relatively straightforward. Otherwise, bring out your pickle fork and sledge hammer if you don't intend to keep the old upper arm.
Just did my rear shocks last week with KYBs from Rockauto. The job went well, but it didn't solve my creaking noise coming from the rear, which I thought it would. I'm somewhat disappointed. It sounds like creaky wood floorboards, when going slowly over uneven road surfaces, like speed bumps, driveway accesses and the like. Just opening the back door and sitting down or bouncing up and down in the rear seat makes it creak, too.
It all depends... Mine is an '06 located where they do salt the roadways. With my ball joint tool, the ball joint popped right out. I approached the job with trepidation like you do after doing the front LCA's. But it turned out to be a walk... By all means, try borrow one from the Zone. Size matters due to limited space.
having watched this job on a youtube video with an Element... is the inboard arm mounting bolt restricted by the frame's shape... or have you got decent access to the bolt for removal?
I don't remember having any problem with the inboard bolt. I did the job a while back. My main fixation was the ball joint. Mine is an '06 vs your '04.
Well, did the Pilot this weekend. Camber arms and shocks. Took about 4 hours... maybe less. first wheel took a while as i was ensuring which end of bolts/nuts to remove (top shock bolt, undo the bolt, bottom, do the nut. camber arm, remove the top bolt, nut is welded, bottom, remove the castle nut.).
nothing real dramatic in the process... actually, by doing both at the same time, made accessing the camber arms easier.
went to rough set the camber arms length, and figured out at their shortest setting, they seem about even with the stock arms.
now need to confirm the preferred alignment specs when i take it in so i know they adjust the dang rear camber.
found these numbers in another thread... anyone able to confirm them... or have a chart of what "perfect" alignment would be? Or... at least what rear camber value do i want it to be at to keep it from eating the inside of tires?
oh... and while i'm screwing around... does the pilot front camber adjust? or only if you buy replacment adjustable bolts for the front struts?
Camber
Front: -0°30' ±1°
Rear: -0°30' ±45'
Caster
Front: 1°53' ±1°
Total Toe
Front: 0±2 mm (0±1/16")
Rear: 0±2 mm (0±1/16")