DIY Brake Job

[hondaman2]

Here it is once again

first thing you do is jack the car up and put it on stands safely.

then take the tires off.

Should look like this

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here is the rear brakes veiw

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next you remove the bottom caliper bolt (14mm) and swing the caliper up

it is ok to remove both bolts if you need to as I show you later.

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the brake pads revealed


you can also see the black shim. when you get new pads make sure you use the old one or get a new one un less the pads come with them installed already.

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here is the rear

you do repeat the steps for the front only the bolt for the rear caliper are 12mm.

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the rear exposed

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ok so now you have the brake pads out. lets inspect them.

this is the rear pad I am showing and only have 20k on them with about 80k + to go. rear pads last around 100k because front wheel drive cars use the fronts a lot more to stop the vehicle.

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front pad look. these have 20k on them with 20-30k left to go.

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ok now you need to compress the caliper. I use a big socket to compensate for the space in the caliper.

make sure before you put it back together that you lube the caliper pin

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then i insert my compression tool. this one is home made. i also have one from Sears for other applications which works just as well. you can also use a C clamp

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I then put on my bleeder kit and open the bleed valve. then I compress the caliper piston. watch all the gunk come out.

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repeat the steps for the rear pads. the bleed valves are 10mm. I have also noticed that some have 11mm. I believe it is where they are manufactured from.

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ok well we are this far why not remove the rotors and have them machined.

so we remove the 17mm bolts on the brake caliper bracket and set it to the side.

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the rears are 14mm

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next we remove the screws holding the rotor to the hub.

a number 3 philips head is recommended but a number 2 (typical size) works sometimes.

If it is stuck for whatever reasons (rust, torque) I use an impact screwdriver as shown and hit it with a hammer as I twist in the direction to loosen.