DIY Brake Job

[ED27]

Having another pair of jack stands will make it easier for you. Otherwise you can support the front first and the move onto the rear when you're done. As far as the rotors go, I would take a measurement to see if they're still within the service limits. If they are you can get them machined at a good local auto parts store. Here's a link to one of the best writeups on bleeding.

[MinMet]

kean, I'd say just put new sets of pads onto it. Taking off the rotors is easier to say than to do it. If you ever decide to take them off, I'd just change to new ones as you are in Chicago and your local severe whether environment should took a heavy toll on the metals. The rotors must all rust badly. Just my 2 cents.

[wazubian]

well i hate to report that my bleeder valve extraction failed. in fact i had the pilot hold drilled perfectly, but when I went to extract, my drill didnt have enough torque to get the threads moving. It eventually broke inside the bleed hole. THe extractor metal is incredible hard, so I could not drill out the valve anymore. I should have just drilled the entire valve out to start with as that metal is much softer.

So that brings me to buying a new sub assembly. Anyone have tips on building up this section of the caliper? looks like ill need to reuse the piston, and seals, but im wondering if the seals are hard to remove and resuse,or will I need to get that replaced as well? I know they rip easily, but ive never removed a piston from a caliper. THANKS

On the pictre (preious page) i need the caliper part that has the bleed valve in it. Is that #5 or 6?
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_p...nGroupID=10765

[Sunday Rider]

You can see if a machine shop can take it out for you. Or try to find a replacement at a wreckers.

You should not reuse the seals. If the seals are okay you should be able to pull the pistons out, but do not scratch them. Some will use air pressure to push out using the bleed hole, but I don't think this will work in your case. Also if you don't know what you are doing air pressue will launch that piston like a small missile.A rubber strap wrench may give you the force needed to pull them out, as long as there is enough sticking out to pull.

In your question about part 5 or 6, looks like the only difference is one is right and the other one left (besides the Canadian and US choices).

I am also uneasy about replacing one side and not the other. Usually do them in pairs to keep things even, but that may be paranoia on my part.

Good luck,

[wazubian]

thanks. the good news is that the remanufactured caliper comes with everything in it, the piston, seals, etc.

[N_Jay]

Pads need to be replaced on the whole axle, calipers do not.

Sorry to hear about the broken extractor. I never have heard of anyone driving one with a drill. I have always used a tap handle.

A really good shop will weld a new stem to the broken piece to get it out, but that will cost more then a new caliper.

If it is off you can use air in the line connection, but a little goes a long way.
Flying pistons are no fun.

[wazubian]

back to the bad news...got the remanufactured caliper today, installed it, no problem. Started going around and bleeding, got to the last one, the front driver side, and low and behold...the valve stem snapped off too! So now Im in the same boat as a few days ago. Im ordering another reman caliper for the other side now $100 with a core exchange, so its not terrrible, but I would have liked to avoid this. Ive worked on cars that have had zero brake service in over 5 years, so I am not sure why rust hits the pilots fronts so hard. It might have to do wth the angle the valves are...they allow water to accumulate and sit in the caliper. The back brake valves are angled down so i think this helps. If you havent opened your bleed valve in over a year...go do it!

[ED27]

Originally posted by wazubian
Started going around and bleeding, got to the last one, the front driver side......

Per the service manual, the front driver side is the first, front passenger second, rear passenger third and then the rear driver last.

I haven't had any issues with the bleed valve on the Pilot and other Hondas....how much force and what kind of wrench are you using?

[wazubian]

std wrench, with not muc more than regular force. the rears needed more than what ive experienced on other cars, but they came open OK. Done brake jobs on past 15 cars and past 10 motorcycles, and never ran into this issue. it might be the design of the valve angle and the chicago winters that seized the threads. ill just be happy to move on after I get it fixed. i could easily see a dealer snapping it off and just putting the wheel back on saying the job was done. At least I can repair it myself and know its being fixed right. thx for the reminder on the pattern

[ecsw]

It's almost my turn to do this. I have 43k miles(70k km) on my 06 Pilot now.

Questions. The attached picture is not for Pilot, but my Mazda. It looks very similar to Pilot (well, I guess they are similar).

Did I miss the part that we need to put the rubber grease and anti-rattle grease?

If so, can I use the Shin-Etsu (rubber grease for door seal on Honda) for this application?

Also, quite a few ppl mentioned rear got wore out quite a bit faster than other cars. Does everyone change their rear at the same time?

[jestmaty]

During a routine, every 5000 mile tire rotation, I noticed my brakes were probably 90% worn. My Pilot turns 5 yrs old today and has 66,000 miles.

A quick trip down to Autozone and $75 later, I have 2 sets of Duralast Gold Ceramic pads that come with shims already. They come with a lifetime warranty too.

Just a reminder to those who are on the fence about doing your own brakes.... Do it yourself!! It is painfully easy.

My rotors are well within spec and I decided not to have them turned. A brake job basically involves removing the 2 front tires...

Locate the 12mm, lower caliper bolt, and loosen it up. Remove it and pivot the caliper up out of the way. Hang it on the springs with a coat hanger or something. Pull both pads away from the rotor, noting the inboard ( closest to the engine ) pad's squeal indicator orientation. I hate those squeal thingys because by the time you hear 'em on the rotor, they have already done some potential damage.

Next step is to put the new pads in where you removed the old ones from. Then, use a big pair of channel locks to carefully depress the piston back into the bore. Go slowly and have someone open the brake fluid reservior and suck any brake fluid out if it is about to overflow. Preferably, use a turkey baster or something like it to suck out brake fluid, not your mouth on the end of a tube.

Then, lower the caliper back over the pads and secure the lower, 12mm bolt back in place. Start the engine and depress the brakes a few times to get the whole system back to just like when you started the brake job. Pumping the brakes seats the entire brake system that you just worked on.

Then, do the same to the other side. That's it!

2 pics.... the second one is of a new and the old brake pad. The new one on the left is from another car I own, just haven't done the brakes yet.

[MinMet]

jestmaty,

Seems you just changed the front pads. Wondering if your back pads are good. According to many board member's experience, the rear goes out before the front on Pilot. Just curious.

[jestmaty]

Originally posted by MinMet
jestmaty,

Seems you just changed the front pads. Wondering if your back pads are good. According to many board member's experience, the rear goes out before the front on Pilot. Just curious.

Did all 4. The rears were just as bad, which I like. I appear to be getting even wear across all 4 pads. BTW. the 1st pic above is of the rear brake, passenger side. That is the only one that had the Duralast visible.

All in all, not too unhappy getting 66k out of oem pads. I would have gone with OEM for replacement, but they are expensive, the duralasts are on 2 of my other cars and work just great, and if they wear out prematurely, I can bring em back for replacement at no cost from Autozone.

[jestmaty]

Just doing a bit of thinking after the recent brake job....

The inner drum 'shoes' are only for the operation of the parking brake on the rear? I was leary of taking the discs off the rear to inspect the parking brakes shoes... Once you get into taking the disc off, you're venturing into a bit of a different environment. Not that I haven't taken traditional brake drums off before, just that I didn't see the need to do so in last week's brake job.

If they truly are only part of operating the parking brake, then I would suspect very, very little wear over the life of the vehicle. Now, if they are used in everyday braking, that's a different story.

Thoughts??.....

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by jestmaty
Just doing a bit of thinking after the recent brake job....

The inner drum 'shoes' are only for the operation of the parking brake on the rear? I was leary of taking the discs off the rear to inspect the parking brakes shoes... Once you get into taking the disc off, you're venturing into a bit of a different environment. Not that I haven't taken traditional brake drums off before, just that I didn't see the need to do so in last week's brake job.

If they truly are only part of operating the parking brake, then I would suspect very, very little wear over the life of the vehicle. Now, if they are used in everyday braking, that's a different story.

Thoughts??.....

I would agree with your view here. Only if it is sticking would I take it off, or if the disk needs to be changed. I think adjusting it would be the only thing if the parking brake is not holding, when it is fully pressed. Something I had to adjust when I first got the Pilot.