DIY Brake Job

[ctobio]

1) Ceramic Pad = Pro: Low dusting, high performance under extreme conditions. Con: Noisy, requires specific bed-in procedure, need to be nice and hot to work properly.

2) Premium Organic Pad = Pro: generally low dusting, but it varies from brand to brand, good all-around performance and wear, especially in quality brands. Con: Prone to fade under extreme braking conditions, tend to burn up under extreme conditions such as racing.

3) Semi-mettalic Pad = Pro: best all-around performance, more resistant to fade than premium organics. Con: very visible dusting (black wheels in a couple of weeks), harder on brake rotors

4) Non-asbestos Organic Pad. All brake pads today are non-asbestos.

If I were replacing the brake pads on my Pilot, i'd probably go with EBC Greenstuff, PBR Deluxe, or OEM. I use PBR Deluxe on all my cars to good results, and EBC is just as good. I find those brands to be very long-wearing, and give good performance.

[fireflock]

Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread. I finally had to change my front brakes after 73k. I went for some new Brembo rotors and premium pads. My old rotors were slightly warped, and I'm very happy with the new setup.

The tip on the impact screwdriver was right on target. I'm not sure I would have ever removed the rotors without one.

Thanks everyone.

[ndnboy]

Gonna be trying this soon, thanks for the write-up.

Will be calling the local dealer and Autozone on pad/rotor prices, should be cheaper than the $500-600 qoutes we got for doing the job.

Any online shops with good prices on OEM pads/rotors or do all the dealers hang in the same pricing field?

Also will need to pick up:
-compression tool
-bleeder kit (never done)
-impact screwdriver
-vacuum pump
-DOT 3 fluid
-anti-seize lube

hope I didnt forget something, wish me luck : )

[gifty74]

Rear pads were low on my '04 EXL so I decided to try and get the rotors turned too. I got the caliper off and even the little screws holding on the rotor, but when I try to remove it it keeps getting bound up on the e-brake pads somehow. Is there a trick to removing the rear rotors? Do you have to unhook or back off on the e-brake? I can get it about 1/4" off, and then they bind up and will not budge. The wheel also stops rotating when it reaches this point, like the brake is being applied, but no brakes are on. Someone has told me the e-brake pads have worn a groove on the inside of the rotors, and that it's getting caught on that on the way off. Can those pads be released inside there? Let me know if someone has run into this same issue, some help would be greatly appreciated!

[Sunday Rider]

I haven't taken the rear off and don't have my book here. BUT it seems to me that there is a little opening that should let you adjust a slotted wheel with a flat ended screw driver, like the old drum style brake shoes.

I will look it up when I get home if you still need the info.

[Sunday Rider]

It is clear in this same thread (page 2) that you are posting here.


Go to the 4th picture down.

Have a look, it was by HondaMan


DIY Brake Job


Good luck

[gifty74]

Awesome, yes, exactly what I was looking for! I saw that thread but did not notice that pic for some reason. I saw all of the other stuff inside the rotor when I removed that little boot, but not down at the bottom. I'll back it out to get the rotor off, and then re-adjust when i get the rotor back on. It seems from my reading that hardly anyone gets the rear rotors turned. Mine is an '04 with 70k on it, and by feel they seem pretty scored, and I just can't imagine putting new pads on those rotors and having them grab nice and even without shaking. The rear rotors do get turned about the same as the front, correct?

[Sunday Rider]

Most of the stopping power is done by the front brakes. Although the rears looked scored on mine, I didn't bother. I would check the cost of turning against the cost of new rotors.

My fronts were scored (but not badly), but I left them in anyway, still got lots of pad life left and that was 2 years and 50,000 miles ago.

The next time I will probably change the front rotors, and check the backs, but probably leave the back ones.

[ducatiduke]

Hi Gang -

Great thread... Using a link within this, what do you all think of these options... http://stores.brakeplanet.com/Store/...20pilot%202003

Especially the all inclusive - 03-04 HONDA PILOT 2 Front + 2 Rear Plain Brake Rotors & F+R Brake Pads for $174.79? Is this sub standard or good stuff? Just seems fairly inexpensive... Also, what about the upgraded option for 03-04 HONDA PILOT F&R Slot Drilled Brake Rotors & Pads $281.14?

[07_Nimbus_EXLN]

I had those same #3 Philips rotor screws on my '03 Acura CL_S, they were installed on the assembly line to hold the rotors on until the caliper person did their thing. My new rotors do not have holes for these screws, and it works fine.

Anyway, mine were seized on pretty good, the Acurazine CL forum recommended that I install the lugs on either side of the screw, and tighten it down to relieve pressure on the head of the screw.

I did that, and it worked! It still wasn't easy, but I thought it was quicker than drilling the screw heads off.

Also, FYI: I bought my rotors from Oreilly's, they actually offer lifetime warranty rotors, and gave me a military discount. (I've already swapped them once, no problems)

[scuba steve]

i just replaced the pads, rotors, and fluid in my pilot yesterday.

i found EBC greenstuff pads f&r and all four rotor blanks by EBC. i ordered from two different places online. everything was shy of $300 and it took me about 3 hours by myself. i've used EBC in the past and they are FAR better than the OEM pads for modulation and friction.

thanks for the how-to!

[heinz57]

Great write up - saved me alot $$$$.

[redcon]

I recently changed the front brake pads on my '05 Pilot (41K mi), installing EBC GreenStuff pads, part DP61655. Because the contact area on the new pads is obviously smaller than the OEM pads, I called the vendor to verify that I had the correct part and he assured me that I did.

However, the box label says CR-V and Element (but not Pilot). Does the Pilot, GVWR 5952 lbs, use the same pads as the CR-V and Element, GVWR 4450 lbs?

Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by redcon
I recently changed the front brake pads on my '05 Pilot (41K mi), installing EBC GreenStuff pads, part DP61655. Because the contact area on the new pads is obviously smaller than the OEM pads, I called the vendor to verify that I had the correct part and he assured me that I did.

However, the box label says CR-V and Element (but not Pilot). Does the Pilot, GVWR 5952 lbs, use the same pads as the CR-V and Element, GVWR 4450 lbs?

Thanks in advance for clearing this up for me.

I think you have the wrong part. I would never put on a pad that had less contact area than the OEM one.

I went on this site and you can see if you enter 2005 CRV and 2005 Pilot you get different part numbers for the front brake pads.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...ry4=&catcgry5=

the part # for the CRV is 1783695 and for the Pilot is 852826. Some thing is wrong. The part is under Front Brake (not Brake)

Most of the stopping is done at the front, so make sure you change it out. Get OEM if you have to.

[ED27]

Originally posted by redcon
I recently changed the front brake pads on my '05 Pilot (41K mi), installing EBC GreenStuff pads, part DP61655.

That's the correct part no according to EBC's Website. This is the problem with aftermarket parts....sometimes the manufacturer can get it wrong and put out the wrong application information. Does the pad look like the size of the rear pads? Maybe EBC got mixed up and meant it for the rear? I agree with Sunday Rider.....return the pads and get either OEM or another aftermarket brand.