DIY Brake Job

[ED27]

Originally posted by ThinkPink!


These screws are impossible to loosen!!

What should I have done if the impact screwdriver failed?


Also, once these puppies are removed, the front calipers didn't just slide out! They were also impossible to pul out!

Did you remove the caliper mounting bolts first? The small phillips-head screws are only for holding the rotor in place. They have nothing to do with the caliper.

When the impact screwdriver didn't work me, I used a screw-extractor to drill it out. Only takes a few minutes to do. Here's the set I got from Sears.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by ED27

Did you remove the caliper mounting bolts first? The small phillips-head screws are only for holding the rotor in place. They have nothing to do with the caliper.

When the impact screwdriver didn't work me, I used a screw-extractor to drill it out. Only takes a few minutes to do. Here's the set I got from Sears.

You can also just drill off the head, and once the tension is released, they usually come right out.

[ThinkPink!]

Originally posted by ED27

Did you remove the caliper mounting bolts first? The small phillips-head screws are only for holding the rotor in place. They have nothing to do with the caliper.

When the impact screwdriver didn't work me, I used a screw-extractor to drill it out. Only takes a few minutes to do. Here's the set I got from Sears.

Hehe..

This is exactly what I did.

I wanted to know the "right" procedure of doing things in cases like this one.


Thanks guys


The new brakes on the Pilot are very welcome (60K km), and costed almost half the price of the dealership.

[ThinkPink!]

Originally posted by ctobio


Propane torch right on the screw. Apply a little candle wax to the screw. Let it cool to touch. Then lightly whack the area with a hammer, about 40 strikes.

Wax will be pulled into the screw and threads as it cools. The hammer blows will create microscopic fractures in the rust on the screw, and it will eventally break. The wax will then lubricate the threads somewhat.

First oil change at 6500 miles I applied anti-seize to these tiny screws, because I predicted that 5 years from then, I would be cursing these screws for being so hard to remove.

Awesome!
Will do this next time.

All 8 screws and both front rotors were definitely seized there. 60K km of Canadian cold winters and warm summers definitely dilated and rusted the screws in place.


Nevertheless, the Pilot now has new brakes. Thanks again.

[sblvro]

Originally posted by hondaman2
these are the tools I used

the white container in this pic can actually be used to do a one man bleed job. the hose that connects to the bleeder should have a hose inside close to the bottom. while you pump, the hose expels the gas and as you release the brake pedal sucks in airless brake fluid.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by ThinkPink!


All 8 screws and both front rotors were definitely seized there. 60K km of Canadian cold winters and warm summers definitely dilated and rusted the screws in place.

I usually apply a VERY VERY thin covering of anti-seize on the hub faces and wheel-to-hub mating surfaces as well. As in, put some on a rag and wipe it on, as thin as you were waxing your car.

[ltp646]

I also posted this question in another DIY brake thread, hoping someone will I'm having a problem with my '04 Pilot front brakes.

I experienced quite a bit of vibration (pulsation) with the original brakes when they come hot. I though the rotors were warped and replaced the rotors/pads (after market) at about 45K miles. The new brakes worked good for about 10K miles and started to vibrate again when hot. I put in the second set of rotors and pads (this time from Honda). Both time, I cleaned and re-greased the slide pins and other hardware, as required. However, they still don't solve the problem.

Any suggestions to correct this problem? Could it caused by malfunctioned calipers?

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by ThinkPink!
All 8 screws and both front rotors were definitely seized there. 60K km of Canadian cold winters and warm summers definitely dilated and rusted the screws in place.

I would guess you did not start with the right size Phillips bit in an impact driver.

A Phillips screw head (and driver) will lose most of its grip by letting the driver "cam out" under force just once.

[ctobio]

I rotated my tires this weekend and "exercised" those screws. I also brushed on a little anti-seize on the threads and screw head where it mates onto the rotor. They will be no problem to remove when I do the brakes.

[colorider]

Originally posted by ThinkPink!
Mod:

Could you please make this a sticky.
Very useful DIY


Thnx

Agree and done!!

[Wolfman_matt]

Thank you HondaMan for the DIY. I replaced the pads on all four wheels last weekend and installed OEM pads courtesy of Tim. I also bled the fluid for the first time without incident. Saved me some big bucks. The only thing I noticed was my caliper bolts were 12 mm instead of 14 mm as stated in the DIY but no big deal.

Thanks again...Matt

[rocky]

Does anyone know the thickness of the oem pads when new?

After 52500 mine are 7 mm thick all around.

[Sunday Rider]

Originally posted by rocky
Does anyone know the thickness of the oem pads when new?

After 52500 mine are 7 mm thick all around.

Rock,
PM Tim at Hondacuraworld he will know.

[freddy991]

Gents,
Pls advise i've 50,000miles on my 2003 and i want to replace my break pad and Parking pad so, which of these listed break pad is the best i mean good quality to be use.

1) Ceramic Pad
2) Premium Organic Pad
3) Semi-mettalic Pad
4) Non-asbestos Organic Pad.

If there is any other type you know and the best which i didn't specify above pls tell me in your response.

Also which spare part stores thats very close to ( W. Spindle tree Circle, The woodlands Houston Tx) for me to get them.

Appreciate your quick response.


'Fred

[sblvro]

oem pads. lasts just as long and less chance for caliper/pad clunk or rattle later on.

Originally posted by freddy991
Gents,
Pls advise i've 50,000miles on my 2003 and i want to replace my break pad and Parking pad so, which of these listed break pad is the best i mean good quality to be use.

1) Ceramic Pad
2) Premium Organic Pad
3) Semi-mettalic Pad
4) Non-asbestos Organic Pad.

If there is any other type you know and the best which i didn't specify above pls tell me in your response.

Also which spare part stores thats very close to ( W. Spindle tree Circle, The woodlands Houston Tx) for me to get them.

Appreciate your quick response.


'Fred