DIY Brake Job

[doberwiler]

Originally posted by ctobio


It's standard practice because they make profit on the parts, obviously.

Now, I have experience with rotors that wear to the point of having to be replaced at each brake change. Many modern vehicles have rotors that are quite thin in order to reduce unsprung weight and increase fuel economy. My Passat, for example, has rear rotors that start out at 10mm, and must be discarded at 8mm. My last brake change put them at 8.5mm, without turning. Extrapolating that to the next brake change, my rotors would be at 7mm, which doesn't sound very safe at all.

Considering that name-brand replacement rotors cost $22 each, shipped, from one of my suppliers, it's a no-brainer toi replace them anyway.

Ctobio,

You must have better access to parts and prices than I have. A rotor for $22????

I have never seen them on a modern car for less than $150. I agree with you if you can get them for $22. Please share your sources.

Dobe

[Roger]

The last set I got for my '91 Accord from Autozone or Advance were less than $25. They were that cheap for my Civic also. Not sure about the pilots.

Roger

Edit: Just looked on the autozone web site and they have front rotors for $62 (Duralast, 2 year warranty) or $132 (Beck Arnley, 3 month warranty).

Roger

Second edit:

Advance Auto has a set for $25.99.

Roger

[thomasj2]

Originally posted by doberwiler


Ctobio,

You must have better access to parts and prices than I have. A rotor for $22????

I have never seen them on a modern car for less than $150. I agree with you if you can get them for $22. Please share your sources.

Dobe

I replaced all 4 rotors on my Pilot for $152, ($26/ea for the fronts and $50/ea for the rear). The CRV was comparable - $160 total, ($39.98/ea). It pays to shop around, which only takes a few minutes on line. Shipping was free.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by doberwiler

You must have better access to parts and prices than I have. A rotor for $22????

This was for my '03 VW Passat. ATe branded rears sell for $25, and Brembo branded fronts I can get for $56.

This is from www.getcoolparts.com, which does free UPS ship on all orders over $50. Same thing with www.stopshopanddrive.com.

Unfortunately, it doesn't seem like they carry any rotors (or any parts, for that matter) for the Honda Pilot at this time. Hopefully by the time I need them they will. I've called them and they've pulled through, however, on getting me stuff (like 4 Bilstein HD struts for my VW)

I have never seen them on a modern car for less than $150. I agree with you if you can get them for $22. Please share your sources.

I rarely have seen them on a modern car for that much, at least not from my sources. The rears for the Passport, which is a very similar design as the Pilot's rear, cost $51 each, in Brembo brand. Fronts are $68. Those are made in Italy, sometime Mexico.

Bear in mind, try to stick to brands such as Brembo or ATe, or some other "name brand." Stay away from the "Made in China" stuff. I have had very poor results with those, as the steel is very substandard.

[lxblack]

To require a rotor change every brake job sounds a bit excessive.

My lexus rotor lasted me 130K miles.

[ctobio]

Originally posted by lxblack
To require a rotor change every brake job sounds a bit excessive.

If it's cheap enough, I don't necessarily agree. The fuel cost savings from shaving the unsprung weight over 50,000 miles will likely offset the cost of replacing a pair of rotors that cost $25 each. It's 4 extra bolts to remove the caliper carrier to get the rotor off.

Remember, this applies to the last generation VW Passat.

[MG Pilot]

I am changing the rear pads this weekend...73K. Is it worth having the rotors turned?

[mattchalmers]

It may be worth turning the rotors, but make sure you do it somewhere reputable. If they do not know what they are doing, they will often screw them up and then tell you that they need to be replaced because they are "warped."

Not sure where people on here get their rotors turned.

[CarolinaPilot]

I have had good luck going to a NAPA store that has a machine shop.

[zanzarista]

Great Thread! Thanks for putting it together!

I've been doing Brakes jobs on cars for many years. I had never heard of opening the bleeder. Thanks for the tip to open it!! I guess I've been lucky all these years of pushing fluid back into the reservoir.

What the torque value is for the caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts?

Thanks for the help!
GFB

[ClayDoh44]

Not sure where people on here get their rotors turned.

I've had a few pair done at O'Reilly Auto Parts (Plano, TX) and all have gone well.

Just a comment on Pilot brake bleeding... I notice the position of the bleed screw is high on the caliper, obviously put there to prevent capturing of air. When open, fluid dribbles out slowly. This shows a positive flow of fluid from the fluid reservoir to the bleed screw.

I changed my brake fluid by going around to each screw, opening it up, attached a 12" clear rubber hose, and pumped fluid through with the brake pedal until it appeared lighter in color in the clear rubber hose. This took about 4-5 pumps per brake. But when not pumping, fluid still dribbled out. I never let the reservoir run dry.

Years ago when doing brakes, I had to have someone slowly push the brake pedal while I tightened the bleed screw, to ge the air out. There was no positive flow when the bleed valve was open.

So if we have this positive flow, why do we need to use bleeder kits? I did all four side this way and had no air trapping problem - brakes are solid as a rock.

Also, I was at 45K miles and my brakes were pulsing / grabbing when stopping. The guy who turned the rotors said he only took off .001 on each side, and they cleaned up completely - so they really were not warped, which surprised me. I installed Wagner MX943 pads and it really stops well now - no pulsing anymore. They seemed expensive to me, $58.99 for a set. "Oh well" - look what I saved.

Thank you for the post on how to get the rotor off! I would have not noticed the two small screws. I was about to go after the axle nut to remove the rotor!

[ThinkPink!]

Mod:

Could you please make this a sticky.
Very useful DIY


Thnx

[ThinkPink!]

Originally posted by hondaman2
next we remove the screws holding the rotor to the hub.

a number 3 philips head is recommended but a number 2 (typical size) works sometimes.

If it is stuck for whatever reasons (rust, torque) I use an impact screwdriver as shown and hit it with a hammer as I twist in the direction to loosen.

These screws are impossible to loosen!!

What should I have done if the impact screwdriver failed?


Also, once these puppies are removed, the front calipers didn't just slide out! They were also impossible to pul out!

[ThinkPink!]

Originally posted by zanzarista

[...]
What the torque value is for the caliper bolts and the caliper bracket bolts?
[...]
GFB

Torque these bolts to 79.6 lb-ft (as per the Helms manual).
Torque the flange bolt to 27 lb-ft

For more info:
Another Brake DIY on this forum

[ctobio]

Originally posted by ThinkPink!


These screws are impossible to loosen!!

What should I have done if the impact screwdriver failed?

Propane torch right on the screw. Apply a little candle wax to the screw. Let it cool to touch. Then lightly whack the area with a hammer, about 40 strikes.

Wax will be pulled into the screw and threads as it cools. The hammer blows will create microscopic fractures in the rust on the screw, and it will eventally break. The wax will then lubricate the threads somewhat.

First oil change at 6500 miles I applied anti-seize to these tiny screws, because I predicted that 5 years from then, I would be cursing these screws for being so hard to remove.