DIY Brake Job

[sblvro]

the plastic cup with the two clear hoses are actually a one-man brake bleeder as shown in the picture by hondaman2. The clear hose that connects to the cup and also with a hose inside the cup is used for the bleeder while the other hose(usually short is just for drainage). What it does is as you press the brake pedal, it squeezes out the brake fluid and prevents air bubbles from being sucked in because the hose inside the cup sucks the brake fluid inside the cup. You have to do it repeatedly until the cup is full so there is no air bubbles.

[MG Pilot]

This weekend I changed the front pads, rotors, and flushed the brake lines. The hardest part was getting the 17 mm bolts that hold the caliper assembly on loose. The flushing can be a bit tricky as well, but I used a vacuum pump from Sears.

When I first did it, the brakes were really spongy...air in the lines. Then I re-did it, properly this time, and the brakes are better than when new…solid. I used Brembo rotors, Akebono ceramic, pads, and Valvoline synthetic brake fluid.

If anyone has any questions, let me know…

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by MG Pilot
This weekend I changed the front pads, rotors, and flushed the brake lines. The hardest part was getting the 17 mm bolts that hold the caliper assembly on loose. The flushing can be a bit tricky as well, but I used a vacuum pump from Sears.

When I first did it, the brakes were really spongy...air in the lines. Then I re-did it, properly this time, and the brakes are better than when new…solid. I used Brembo rotors, Akebono ceramic, pads, and Valvoline synthetic brake fluid.

If anyone has any questions, let me know…

Just a quick note.

All brake fluid is basically syntetic.
There is nothing special about Valvoline fluid over most other quallity DOT-3/4 fluids.

[CarolinaPilot]

MG Pilot,
I have never used ceramic pads. What are the pro/cons and why did you pick Akebono?

[rogermoises]

Hi,

I'm planning to replace my own front pads and rotors, hopefully this weekend. For the brake bleeding, I was wondering what size (inside diameter) hose/tubing will fit onto the caliper's bleeder nipple?

Thanks for the great pictures and advice!

Roger

[ctobio]

Originally posted by rogermoises

I'm planning to replace my own front pads and rotors, hopefully this weekend. For the brake bleeding, I was wondering what size (inside diameter) hose/tubing will fit onto the caliper's bleeder nipple?

Most cars in my garage I use 1/4" vinyl tubing from Home Depot, but for my '73 VW I actually use 3/16"

[Edog]

I found this on Google video tonight. Just what you were looking for.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...+pilot&pl=true

Originally posted by jzw
Hi Hondaman,

It would be great if you can shoot a video clip for the whole process. With no hesitation, I would buy it for $5 to $10. If you can make a series of the DIY instructions, I am sure you have a business of your own. If you live in North New Jersey, I will help you shoot and convert it to DVDs.

Jerry

[MSTEWART]

I noticed that he didn't bleed the brakes. Do you need to bleed the brakes every time?

[ctobio]

Originally posted by MSTEWART
I noticed that he didn't bleed the brakes. Do you need to bleed the brakes every time?

My opinion on bleeding brakes.

The reason why most mechanics are taught at ASE schools that the brake bleeder valve is to be opened when retracting a caliper is that it's a well known fact that most people never have their brake fluid changed, and driving back the cruddy fluid from the inside of a caliper back into the Brake Pressure Modulating valve is a bad idea. The cruddy fluid contains water, rust, rubber bits, maybe even some wear metals. These things going into the BPMV will do bad things to the precision valving inside.

Driving back the fluid is perfectly safe if the fluid is known to be clean. If the fluid is relatively new, or was recently changed, I wouldn't at all be concerned about not opening up the bleeder valves to retract a caliper.

As far as a full brake bleed schedule, this should be independent of any brake job. If your fluid is more than 3 years old, change the fluid. During a brake job might be an opportune time to do this since it's an "in the neighborhood" job.

Choose the methodology that works bet for you- whether its the 2 man pump, the pressure bleeder, or the vacuum extractor. Empty out the reservoir first with a vacuum pump or, as I use, a dollar store turkey baster (clean, please, and don't reuse it for anything other than brake fluid! wash it off with soap and water afterwards), refill with fresh fluid, and then use the method of your choice.

If you're going to do the 2 man pump, stick a block of wood under the brake pedal so you don't slam the master cylinder pistons into the end of the bore.

[rogermoises]

Originally posted by ctobio


Most cars in my garage I use 1/4" vinyl tubing from Home Depot, but for my '73 VW I actually use 3/16"

Thanks for the response!

[jestmaty]

RE: the google video

He didn't support the Pilot with a good jack stand....

He didn't use a torque wrench on the caliper bolts nor the lugs...

Watch when he starts cranking down on both sets of bolts, the Pilot is shaking a bit. Scary

Overall, a pretty good video that shows how to change pads only on the front of just about any vehicle manufactured today.

Jestmaty

[doberwiler]

Folks,

One other note to add to this great thread.

On past vehicles, I have often just replaced the pads without turning or replacing the rotors. Dealers and brake places hate to do this because it makes it harder for them to waranty the job / liability.

Of you are doing it yourself and the brakes are not "pulsating" due to bad rotors, just do the pads.

Our previous car was a 1998 Expedition that required new pads and rotors every 25K (according to the dealer). I got sick of the $1200 brake jobs and the last few times just did the pads myself the last two times.

Car still worked the same -- so save the money if you can if the rotors don't pulsate.

Glenn

[ctobio]

Originally posted by doberwiler

Of you are doing it yourself and the brakes are not "pulsating" due to bad rotors, just do the pads.

I would measure the rotor thickness to make sure it is within tolerances, regardless of whether you're turning them or not.

[doberwiler]

Agreed -- but the standard practice at dealers and brake places is to replace them every time. Not needed unless they have worn or been turned many times. The minimum thickness can be measured and is stamped on them.

Glenn

[ctobio]

Originally posted by doberwiler
Agreed -- but the standard practice at dealers and brake places is to replace them every time. Not needed unless they have worn or been turned many times. The minimum thickness can be measured and is stamped on them.

Glenn

It's standard practice because they make profit on the parts, obviously.

Now, I have experience with rotors that wear to the point of having to be replaced at each brake change. Many modern vehicles have rotors that are quite thin in order to reduce unsprung weight and increase fuel economy. My Passat, for example, has rear rotors that start out at 10mm, and must be discarded at 8mm. My last brake change put them at 8.5mm, without turning. Extrapolating that to the next brake change, my rotors would be at 7mm, which doesn't sound very safe at all.

Considering that name-brand replacement rotors cost $22 each, shipped, from one of my suppliers, it's a no-brainer toi replace them anyway.