15K (1 Year) service

[btk467]

Hi all,

I am going to do the 15K (1year) service as DIY.
Thank you all, I know how to do it.
There is one question.
What is the difference between "service front and rear brakes" and "inspect front and rear brakes"?
Has someone done this service as DIY?

Sorry, could find a link to thread about service brakes.

Thanks.

[hondaman2]

inspecting brakes has to do with checking the wear and determining if they need to be replaced.

servicing has to do with changing the front brake pads or rears, at the same time testing the caliper pistons and adjusting the parking brake. Sometimes a brake bleed and a rotor turning.

with 15k you will not be servicing the brakes it is just an inspection. AT around 45k you will be needing front brake pads. The rears last around 150k+.

[btk467]

hondaman2,

thanks a lot.

[dbudds]

Change the rear diferential fluid and oil.

[rshelar]

hondaman2:

I have just under 20K miles and I get a shimmy under braking. Feels like at least one front rotor needs to be turned already. Is this common? It is going in for trans recall soon.

[04silver]

The pilot is a very heavy vehicle, it is not uncommon to have a warped rotor due to the heat buildup under hard braking with this vehicle. I've not found Honda or Acura rotors to be particularly durable during heavy braking.

I had a warped rotor on my Acura TL from one emergency(Well not an emergency, but I had to stomp on the brakes due to a radar trap..). A simple turning of the rotors fixed it quite well.

[sfhondapilot]

Originally posted by rshelar
hondaman2:

I have just under 20K miles and I get a shimmy under braking. Feels like at least one front rotor needs to be turned already. Is this common? It is going in for trans recall soon.

A few other members have reported premature rotor warpage, so your experience would not be uncommon.

[hondaman2]

it is not uncommon...it really all depends on how much braking you do.

constant stop and go...



I have a friend who lives in Big Bear(for all you Californians)(elevation 6000 ft +) and commutes to Barstow everyday. He was having rotors turned about every 6 to 8 months. I put on some high quality drilled rotors and its been about 18 months since he has needed any brake work.

Quality of brake pad is also a factor...get some sort of thermo quiet pad and there will be no noise and longer life.

you should know that the thinner the rotor the faster they warp...so the more times the rotor is turned the faster it wears out and thereby needing to be turned again.

also rear brake adjustment and parking brake adjustment are a factor. If the rear brake shoes are loose(out of adjustment) the front brake pads are going to be doing most of the work and so you see here again that the rotors are going to be getting hot and staying hot longer than necessary. Parking brakes and rear brakes go hand in hand if one is out of adjustment so is the other.

the last thing to take note of is brake fluid. If you have dirty brake fluid in the master cylinder then it is in the lines. And if it is in the lines it is in the caliper. Dirty fluid in the caliper inhibits the caliper piston from moving properly and therefore requiring more pressure, more pedal and distance for stopping.

FYI.. when you get a brake service make sure that the place you go to does not compress the caliper piston with the bleeder valve closed(a lot of places do). What happens is when the piston is pressed back into the caliper all the fluid behind the piston is forced back into the master cylinder the wrong way. The dirt that is in the fluid gets lodged between the master cylinder push rod and the seal...then you get a mushy pedal and then you lose your brake pressure.

well thats all for now, if I can think of more I will let you know.

[john802]

Originally posted by hondaman2
FYI.. when you get a brake service make sure that the place you go to does not compress the caliper piston with the bleeder valve closed(a lot of places do). What happens is when the piston is pressed back into the caliper all the fluid behind the piston is forced back into the master cylinder the wrong way. The dirt that is in the fluid gets lodged between the master cylinder push rod and the seal...then you get a mushy pedal and then you lose your brake pressure.

Make sure to put one end of tubing in the bleeder screw outlet and the other end in a bottle/container before compressing the caliper piston or else you will be spraying dirty brake fluid all over.