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Old 02-15-2012, 12:43 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crankshaft pulley bolt won't budge!!!!

05 Honda Pilot EX-L: Working on getting the timing belt removed
I cannot get the crankshaft pulley bolt removed and have spent the past 2 evenings working on it.

Here's what I've tried (I have the special pulley holder tool from O'Reilly Auto):

1) Dewalt DW291 (240 ft-lbs) electric impact wrench directly into shallow impact socket

2) Chicago Pneumatic CP734 (425 ft-lbs) pneumatic impact wrench directly into shallow impact socket (Air compressor @ 120 PSI)

3) 1/2" extensions to bring it out ~18" + jack stand to support the extension + 1/2" breaker bar + 3-4' steel tube slid over the handle. I turned this about 60 degrees and on my last try ended up snapping a 1/2" Craftsman extension in half! I was applying slow, controlled pressure to it.

* I have not heated this up at all (for fear of damaging something else)
* I have not put any type of penetrating fluid on it

What should I try next? I don't have access to any 3/4" tools. Was I just unlucky in breaking the 1/2" Craftsman extension? or is it likely that I'm just going to break another one if I replace it and try again? I am checking into renting a Bosch 1434R 3/4IN Impact Wrench (450 ft-lbs) tomorrow, but not sure if that's even going to do it.

I can't believe how difficult this thing is to remove!!! Everything was going well and now I've been stuck wasting my time on this one step. I wish I would have seen it earlier, but the best advice I read was to get the crank pulley taken care of first. That way I could have at least driven it down to a shop/dealer to have it loosened and retightened before tearing into the engine.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:36 AM   #2 (permalink)
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what way does the engine turns? clockwise? I would put all the necessary socket and handle and handle resting on the ground. with the sparkplug cables disconnected, I would try to start it in one short burst. that should take care of it. I did that when I replaced my galant's V6 timing belt. hope that helps!
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:34 AM   #3 (permalink)
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The ones I've done, I had to have the pulley tool with a breaker and a pipe handle pointing almost straight down. Then I used my socket & ratchet with a short extension (3" or 6") and a pipe handle over the ratchet pointing almost straight down. I laid on my side at the front of the vehicle and placed both my feet onto the pulley holder pipe. Then with all my strength I pulled the ratchet pipe. Took several tries and it finally creaked and started to loosen. It's all downhill from there.

Exchange for new craftsman and try again.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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There was a thread about this a couple of months ago:
Removing Crankshaft Bolt

One guy tried the "starter" method and he said it worked for him.

I understand your concern about the heat; but since you're really stuck here, you might as well try the penetrating fluid. I don't know how much it will help though.

I've never done a timing belt change before and don't know what other advice to offer you, but I hope this helps. Good luck.
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Old 02-15-2012, 11:28 AM   #5 (permalink)
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That didn't work for me. Just stalled the starter motor.

BTW: I seriously doubt penetrating oil will get in there. The threads get oiled when the bolt is installed. There will be no rust inside the threads as nothing can get in there. It's just the stretch of that massive bolt at 180lb/ft of torque that won't let it move. Muscle is the only thing that works for me.

If you can't do it, just run over to a mechanic. Pay them to loosen & re-install it. Then it will come right off with your breakers & pipe handle.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:07 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I did my NSX couple years ago as you described with extensions resting on jack stand, 1/2 drive breaker bar and jack handle over breaker bar. 3/4 drive hand tools are the way to go, but I didn't have any either. Ended up bending my cheap 24" breaker bar...turned it over and bent it back. I ended up with the jack handle all the way over the breaker bar (to put bending moment close to socket end) and jumped on it ( I had several towels covering the extensions, etc in case they shattered...didn't want flying onto car). BIG bang...was sure I had broken something but it came off. Keep trying, you're doing it the right way. Just be sure you are turning it the right way.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:19 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sblvro View Post
what way does the engine turns? clockwise? I would put all the necessary socket and handle and handle resting on the ground. with the sparkplug cables disconnected, I would try to start it in one short burst. that should take care of it. I did that when I replaced my galant's V6 timing belt. hope that helps!
I have a lot of the engine torn apart now, so I don't think this is an option. I wished I would have tried loosening the crank bolt as a first step, so I could at least take it somewhere to have it loosened if I ran into trouble.

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Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
The ones I've done, I had to have the pulley tool with a breaker and a pipe handle pointing almost straight down. Then I used my socket & ratchet with a short extension (3" or 6") and a pipe handle over the ratchet pointing almost straight down. I laid on my side at the front of the vehicle and placed both my feet onto the pulley holder pipe. Then with all my strength I pulled the ratchet pipe. Took several tries and it finally creaked and started to loosen. It's all downhill from there.

Exchange for new craftsman and try again.
I will exchange for a replacement this evening after work. I was able to get a breaker bar attached to the pulley tool and lock it in against the garage floor. However, the pulley tool that I rented (O'Reilly Auto) isn't super snug in there and makes it difficult to hold in place until I put some pressure on it. I may give this a try, but not sure if the shorter pipe will give me enough power.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NJGuy View Post
There was a thread about this a couple of months ago:
Removing Crankshaft Bolt

One guy tried the "starter" method and he said it worked for him.

I understand your concern about the heat; but since you're really stuck here, you might as well try the penetrating fluid. I don't know how much it will help though.

I've never done a timing belt change before and don't know what other advice to offer you, but I hope this helps. Good luck.
I will hold off on the heat for now, but will keep it in mind. Most of what I've heard/read says the penetrating oil will not help, but couldn't hurt

Quote:
Originally Posted by 94eg! View Post
That didn't work for me. Just stalled the starter motor.

BTW: I seriously doubt penetrating oil will get in there. The threads get oiled when the bolt is installed. There will be no rust inside the threads as nothing can get in there. It's just the stretch of that massive bolt at 180lb/ft of torque that won't let it move. Muscle is the only thing that works for me.

If you can't do it, just run over to a mechanic. Pay them to loosen & re-install it. Then it will come right off with your breakers & pipe handle.
Car is not in running condition now. Wished I would have done this first though.

Quote:
Originally Posted by NSXBill View Post
I did my NSX couple years ago as you described with extensions resting on jack stand, 1/2 drive breaker bar and jack handle over breaker bar. 3/4 drive hand tools are the way to go, but I didn't have any either. Ended up bending my cheap 24" breaker bar...turned it over and bent it back. I ended up with the jack handle all the way over the breaker bar (to put bending moment close to socket end) and jumped on it ( I had several towels covering the extensions, etc in case they shattered...didn't want flying onto car). BIG bang...was sure I had broken something but it came off. Keep trying, you're doing it the right way. Just be sure you are turning it the right way.
It looks like I'll have access to a larger pneumatic impact wrench tonight. A 625 ft-lb Mac. I'm also going to borrow a larger air compressor from a neighbor.
I'll let you know what the results are. Hopefully third night is a charm
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:40 PM   #8 (permalink)
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if your timing belt is still connected, you can still do the starter method. you don't want the engine to be running, just a short crank of the starter is what you need.
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Old 02-15-2012, 01:52 PM   #9 (permalink)
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FYI... Next time you do one of these, ALWAYS start the crank bolt as the first step. It's the hardest thing to get loose. If you can't do it, then you can just re-attach the splash guard and continue driving...

BTW: The crank holder tools always fit sloppy. I feel your pain. It's a ***** to keep everything in place while your trying to position yourself to pull.
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Old 02-16-2012, 01:24 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Well, no luck with the pneumatic 625 ft-lb impact wrench and 20 gal compressor
I also tried to hold the pulley holder's breaker bar with my feet and pull back on a racket, but I couldn't move it at all. I did get the 1/2" extension warrantied at Sears and gave the breaker bar + steel tube a try again. Took it from almost straight up and pushed it to roughly parallel with the ground. I didn't break any extensions, but stopped before I hit the ground. Still no luck getting it to budge

Quote:
Originally Posted by sblvro View Post
if your timing belt is still connected, you can still do the starter method. you don't want the engine to be running, just a short crank of the starter is what you need.
The timing belt is not connected, BUT both cylinder heads are off. Is the starter method ok in this case? I've removed/disconnected all the wiring harnesses/sensors and everything connected to get both heads out (battery, PS pump, fuel line, drive belt, alternator, intake manifold, fuel rail, radiator hoses, water passage, catalytic converters, front/back heads, etc.). If this scenario is still ok, do I just need to reconnect the battery, lock in the pulley holder, and turn ignition for a second?
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:16 AM   #11 (permalink)
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You can lay down way more torque with those pipe handles than any starter motor. My starter motor simply stalled, yet I was able to break the bolt loose with two pipe handles.

I think an oxy acetylene torch is your only option here.
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Old 02-16-2012, 09:29 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005HondaPilot View Post
The timing belt is not connected, BUT both cylinder heads are off. Is the starter method ok in this case? I've removed/disconnected all the wiring harnesses/sensors and everything connected to get both heads out (battery, PS pump, fuel line, drive belt, alternator, intake manifold, fuel rail, radiator hoses, water passage, catalytic converters, front/back heads, etc.). If this scenario is still ok, do I just need to reconnect the battery, lock in the pulley holder, and turn ignition for a second?
if you said the heads are off, then you can do it. make sure to wipe/pour oil on the cylinder walls to preserve those rings. make sure everything is clear, no bolts, nuts, coolant, etc that can be dislodged into the cylinder wall and scour the walls.
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:25 PM   #13 (permalink)
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I broke some nice tools trying to get mine apart. Starter method was the solution for me. If your starter motor 'stalls out' maybe the battery is a little low on oomph - try a jump start from a running vehicle for some extra amps? Good luck. I know it's a pain in the a$$.
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Old 02-19-2012, 03:29 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Crap, I forgot to update the thread. I got the crank bolt loosened using the starter method!
I set the socket on the bolt w/ a 18" long 1/2" breaker bar locked in place against the frame, plugged the battery back in, and hit the ignition for a second. Bam! Broke loose right away.
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Old 02-20-2012, 03:16 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2005HondaPilot View Post
Crap, I forgot to update the thread. I got the crank bolt loosened using the starter method!
I set the socket on the bolt w/ a 18" long 1/2" breaker bar locked in place against the frame, plugged the battery back in, and hit the ignition for a second. Bam! Broke loose right away.
congrats! you kept us in suspense for how many? three days?
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