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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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ok, so here's the story. Sometime ago while replacing an amp under the driver side seat i must have failed to reconnect a gray connector. I assumed that this was related to the SRS system as i was seeing the SRS warning light in the instrument cluster. So i decided to have a peek under the seat and check it out. Well actually what happened was that the two wires (both blue with gray dots intermittently) had become unplugged from the connector. So i disconnected the battery and waited bout 5 minutes, unbolted the driver seat and tried to reconnect the wires. admittedly i was a little confused as both of the wires looked identical so i played a lil game of eeny meeny miney moe, and plugged them both back into the connector, plugged the connector back in and reconnected the battery. i cranked the car up and Voila the SRS light went off. pat myself on the back call it a night.
well earlier today i was gonna run out to the store, cranked the car up and it won't come out of park, I also noticed the power windows, and moonroof dont seem to work either. So i checked all of the fuses on the driver and passenger side kick panels (two were blown, but i replaced them). i checked all of the ATM fuses under the hood (both places) as well, and they were all fine. i am unfamiliar with the larger square type fuses or relays (not sure) but i did pry the tops off of them and i didn't see anything melted. I'm hoping that someone here can lend an assist and give me somethings to check that i may have missed. oh and i also tried to leave that connector unplugged again and see if i could atleast shift into drive. no dice.
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HU: Factory Front: Pioneer TS-D720C Component 6 3/4" - 4 ohm Rear: Pioneer TS-A642P Coaxial 6.5" (4 way) - 4 ohm Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD210 10" DVC - 2 ohm Sub Amp: Viper D600.1 750W (mono) 4 ch Amp: Pioneer GM-D9500F (class D, 4 ch) 2~8 ohm 800watts Accessories: Scosche SLC4 Line Out Converter (4 ch) Phoenix Gold TLD66 Line Driver (6 ch) |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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thanks for the insight. so does anyone have a clue what the gray connector is under the drivers seat?
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HU: Factory Front: Pioneer TS-D720C Component 6 3/4" - 4 ohm Rear: Pioneer TS-A642P Coaxial 6.5" (4 way) - 4 ohm Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD210 10" DVC - 2 ohm Sub Amp: Viper D600.1 750W (mono) 4 ch Amp: Pioneer GM-D9500F (class D, 4 ch) 2~8 ohm 800watts Accessories: Scosche SLC4 Line Out Converter (4 ch) Phoenix Gold TLD66 Line Driver (6 ch) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Jericho, VT
Posts: 178
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Well, what year and trim level is your Pilot?
If you've got heated leather seats, the gray connector could be one of the following components: Heated seat pad (cushion) Heated seat pad (back) Belt buckle disconnected/connected Power seat recline Power seat slide If I am to understand you correctly, you didn't disconnect a connector, but rather removed [forcefully? i.e. wire routing improper]the two wires from the connector end itself. Otherwise, you wouldn't have to roll the dice on which wire went where, correct? If I could find a Pilot wiring schematic, I would tell you immediately what you disconnected and if it was remotely related to the problems you're experiencing. I've been looking for one for a while without any luck, however. Regarding your stereo install - the amps are independently wired directly to the battery, right? You're using a proper turn-on lead for them (not spliced into a switched 12v+ lead under the seat). What fuses were blown out that you replaced? |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Well i had reconnected the connector initially then lifted the seat back up while trying to re-position it so i could bolt it back down and un-knowingly pulled the wires from the connector.
i have an '05 EX. and yes both amps are run independently to the batter and using a remote lead from the head unit to turn them on. as far as the blown fuses, it was the Back-up Lights, Instrument Lights (10A) on the driver side and i believe it was the Driver power seat sliding (20A) but honestly i don't remember for sure on that one. I have a Haynes' manual but not sure which of the wiring schematics there would cover the problem area. thanks for any additional info you can provide krazykarguy
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HU: Factory Front: Pioneer TS-D720C Component 6 3/4" - 4 ohm Rear: Pioneer TS-A642P Coaxial 6.5" (4 way) - 4 ohm Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD210 10" DVC - 2 ohm Sub Amp: Viper D600.1 750W (mono) 4 ch Amp: Pioneer GM-D9500F (class D, 4 ch) 2~8 ohm 800watts Accessories: Scosche SLC4 Line Out Converter (4 ch) Phoenix Gold TLD66 Line Driver (6 ch) |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Jericho, VT
Posts: 178
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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As far as the yanked wiring is concerned, the wire color on the other end of the connector should match the end where they were yanked out. No need to guess on that.
I would double check to verify that they are correctly installed. Have the fuses blown again? |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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no the fuses haven't blown. you may have missed that i originally stated that the wires were identical. they were both blue with gray dots intermittently spaced out in pairs
__________________
HU: Factory Front: Pioneer TS-D720C Component 6 3/4" - 4 ohm Rear: Pioneer TS-A642P Coaxial 6.5" (4 way) - 4 ohm Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD210 10" DVC - 2 ohm Sub Amp: Viper D600.1 750W (mono) 4 ch Amp: Pioneer GM-D9500F (class D, 4 ch) 2~8 ohm 800watts Accessories: Scosche SLC4 Line Out Converter (4 ch) Phoenix Gold TLD66 Line Driver (6 ch) |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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ok seems like the problem is a little more than i initially thought. i can't shift out of park without doing the override, power windows, moon roof, speedometer, tachometer, and fuel guage work. and even if the gray connector under the seat is disconnected, every time i crank the car it blows the STOP fuse under the hood. I called the local Honda service department and the guy advised me that the power windows, moon roof etc are all on different circuits. still hoping that someone here may have some insight to help me avoid taking it to the shop and dropping a ton of coin to get it fixed.....
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HU: Factory Front: Pioneer TS-D720C Component 6 3/4" - 4 ohm Rear: Pioneer TS-A642P Coaxial 6.5" (4 way) - 4 ohm Sub: Rockford Fosgate Punch P3SD210 10" DVC - 2 ohm Sub Amp: Viper D600.1 750W (mono) 4 ch Amp: Pioneer GM-D9500F (class D, 4 ch) 2~8 ohm 800watts Accessories: Scosche SLC4 Line Out Converter (4 ch) Phoenix Gold TLD66 Line Driver (6 ch) |
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