Honda Pilot '04 - Brake problems

[Merlynne]

In June the dealership told me I had 15-20% brake pad left. So, I went to my neighborhood mechanic who worked on my husbands trucks brakes without a problem and had him do my brakes.

It is now October and I am experiencing a shake when I brake. The dealership checked it out and told me it was due to aftermarket brake pads that caused the rotors to warp.

Has anyone ever heard of that? The mechanic is willing to re-do the entire job with Honda parts. But, the Honda dealership warns me that they will ruin the rotors and cause more problems.

What is your advice?

Thank you in advance.

[carguy07]

Have the rotors turned, make sure they do not over-tighten the lug nuts, keep driving. Ask the dealer why Honda rotors warp too.

[94eg!]

Well for 1, Honda/Akebono pads are the best. They last ~90k-100k miles (on mine) and are very easy on the rotors. They beat the pants off of Autozone lifetime warranty pads cause those will grind through your rotors in about 40k miles. They only cost $56 shipped for an axle set including shims & shim grease: Genuine Honda Parts : OEM Parts Direct : Prelude Parts : CRZ : CRV : Pilot Parts : Automotive Parts : Authentic Honda Parts : G1Parts.com

Yes it is possible the aftermarket pads have made the rotors vibrate, but you cannot be sure the rotors are ruined without measuring them. What happens is when some pad types get too hot, they leave deposits on the rotor surface. This causes vibration when braking.

If your mechanic measures the rotors and they have pleanty of thickness, you can have them machined to remove an possible warping or bad pad material. This cost money too though and you end up with slightly thinner rotors. You can get new rotors for about $46 each at Autozone and not worry about them wearing for another 200k with OEM pads. Honda front rotors are $80 each shipped: Genuine Honda Parts : OEM Parts Direct : Prelude Parts : CRZ : CRV : Pilot Parts : Automotive Parts : Authentic Honda Parts : G1Parts.com

[krazykarguy]

It might be worth noting that I use the Autozone "lifetime warranty" pads on all of my cars from the first ever brake pad change. The el-cheapo Organic DuraLast pads are my "go-to" pad for my cars as well as any car I put brakes on. I have used these exact pads on at least a dozen different cars with no comebacks.

My primary car (a 2005 Saab 9-2x) is on it's 3rd pad set (2 DuraLasts and one OEM) but the ORIGINAL rotors at 104k miles. The Pilot also has original rotors all the way 'round and on it's second set of pads (1 OEM & 1 DuraLast), and 80k miles. Neither car shakes when braking, and the rotors are all within spec for thickness.

If you go with any sort of "semi-metallic" or "ceramic" pad (the other two more expensive types typically offered by AutoZone), your rotor wear will increase. The organic "el-cheapo" pads are very soft material and easy on the rotors. The lifetime guarantee is great, because you just swap them out at 50k or so, and get a new pad set for free!

For the price of ONE $56 SET of the OEM pads (with NO warranty), you can buy new pads for both the front AND rear of your car with a lifetime warranty. If you do your own maintenance (does not sound like the OP), this is your best bet.

[94eg!]

Ah that makes sense. My experience is with the Autozone C-max ceramic pads on an 03 pilot. First they ate the rotors, then they wore unevenly down to the backing plate in one corner. All within 2 years. This was my moter-in-laws 03. It was a PITA to do the brakes twice, buy a set of rotors, and fight with Autozone to honor their warranty (void warranty if you reach the backing plate for whatever reason).

It just made me mad because the pads never even got close the squealer tabs becuase they wore so unevenly. The piston and caliper sliders were in great shape too...

[Underdog]

Originally Posted by Merlynne

In June the dealership told me I had 15-20% brake pad left. So, I went to my neighborhood mechanic who worked on my husbands trucks brakes without a problem and had him do my brakes.

It is now October and I am experiencing a shake when I brake. The dealership checked it out and told me it was due to aftermarket brake pads that caused the rotors to warp.

Has anyone ever heard of that? The mechanic is willing to re-do the entire job with Honda parts. But, the Honda dealership warns me that they will ruin the rotors and cause more problems.

What is your advice?

Thank you in advance.

The dealer is full of crap. I had a constant issue with the frt rotors wrapping on my 04. The rotors Honda uses are substandard. Since switching to aftermarket rotors I have not had an issue with wrapped rotors.

It was a know fact that the rotors were too weak on 03 04 and 05, but Honda would not publicly admit it.

I have used Wagner and AC Delco (1st grade) rotors and have found both to be far superior to Honda's OEM.

What brand rotors were put on your Pilot?

[humanoid]

I have an '05 with over 87K miles on it and never had a warped rotor, and still using the OEM factory rotors. One major factor in rotors warping is that they aren't being torqued to spec when the tires are put on. Most of the knuckle draggers that put on those tires use an air ratchet/gun and tighten those lugs up so tight that they are way over spec. IIRC the lugs should be torqued to 80 ft./lbs.

[Merlynne]

They did not change the rotors, as far as I know they are still the originals. Had the brakes changed at 85K miles and then again at 130K miles.

[Merlynne]

Thank you to all who have shared your experience and advice here...

The mechanic who did the brake job is willing to re-do the entire job with Honda brake pads and have the rotors turned again.

The dealership advises me not to take it back to the mechanic.

Is this just a fear tactic or is it important to have the dealership do the re-work? Of course, they are going to charge me for the job.

[nytennisaddict]

my $0.02

if you didn't have your rotors replaced you may be riding on thinner OEM rotors that (according to what I've read) were already weak to begin with.

I had recently changed pads and rotors after getting significant vibration when braking. I'm guessing it was either due to:

1) hard braking (particularly in the summer) which may have warped the rotor - or
2) hard braking then keeping the brakes engaged at stop (leaving deposits on the rotor).

the main driver of the pilot has a lead foot

I chose not to turn because folks by me charge $25 per rotor - so thought it better to just buy new.

I got ceramic brakes because I read they are less abrasive on rotors and other pros) than semi-metallic.

my dealer used (IMO) scare tactics to get me to do my brakes (ie. said I couldnt pass inspection because pads were below the min - yet the pads were not squealing - and got another garage to pass inspect the same day - with a warning, "pads are very low")


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[carguy07]

Dealer is screwing with you. Any competent mechanic can do a brake job on this car.

[94eg!]

IMO, if your experiencing vibration, just replace the rotors. It's going to cost an extra $100, but that will be worth it.

If you cut rotors that are already having vibration issues, then your just inviting more trouble. A rotor with less mass will get hotter in all conditions than a rotor with more mass. Go with OEM pads and new rotors and you won't have any trouble.

[krazykarguy]

Rotors are so thin nowadays that one "cut" on the lathe can actually reduce them to below spec.

Less material = less ability to shed heat. More heat = warped rotors.

Replace them.

[SD16]

The front rotors on my 03 warped with the original pads, I replaced them.