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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 9
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Hello all,
I was hoping to get some suggestions on diagnosing a problem I'm having with my 2005 Honda Pilot EX-L. Symptoms: - Occasionally has trouble starting up. Keeping the key turned and feeding a little gas seems to get it going. Can sometimes take 2-3 rounds to get going - Has enough power cranking it (Doesn't sound like a low battery or anything) - Once it gets going, runs perfectly fine. I can turn it off and it starts right back up with no problem - MIGHT be temperature related? I park it overnight (get home at 5pm and don't drive it until 7am the next morning) and it starts relatively easily (not perfect, but not bad). However, when I go to lunch and it's hotter it will start a lot rougher (even though it's only been 4 hrs vs the 14 hrs it sat overnight) Background - About a month ago I had an overheating issue. I've since replaced the radiator cap, thermostat, and replaced an anti-freeze reservoir elbow that had a hole it in. That seems to have fixed the overheating, but not sure if it contributed to the current problem. - It was misfiring consistently. Cylinders 1, 2, and random codes. I replaced one of the ignition coils (number 2) and that fixed the constant misfire Things I've tried so far - Replaced ignition coil #2 (fixed the constant misfire) - Replaced the Engine Coolant Temp Sensor - Let gas get down to 1/8 tank and refilled with regular non-ethanol gas (Usually use Ethanol) - Did a compression test on all 6 cylinders to test head gasket. All checked out around 160psi - Tried a bottle of Lucas fuel additive Other ideas - Fuel pump? If it was the fuel pump, wouldn't I have issues all the time and not just when it starts up? - ECM? How would I test this? |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 642
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Have you replaced your plugs? You can try some inexpensive Copper NGK v-powers. These are outstanding performance plugs, but they should be replaced regularly. Copper cannot last as long as Platinum.
Is your engine consuming motor oil? Perhaps your valve seals are leaking oil down into the cylinders. I don't know if this would cause a problem starting, but the idea popped into my head... |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,054
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Quote:
You can have it load tested to measure the CCA in its present condition. How many miles on the vehicle? Second the suggestion to check (or replace) the spark plugs. |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Red Sox Nation
Posts: 7,172
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When you say you filled with normal non Ethanol gas, I'm puzzled. All gas uses 10% Ethanol. What were you running your car on before?
What your MPG? Hows the air filter? What codes is it throwing? Whats the fuel line pressure? What voltage is the alternator producing? Has the timing belt been replaced? Did these problems start after replacement or any other work?
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#5 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 1,054
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Quote:
It depends upon your location. Ethanol-free gas stations in the U.S. and Canada |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Germantown, MD
Posts: 164
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The symptoms you list (eg: hard to start when hot) is indicative of a bad coolant temp sensor. Fairly inexpensive part and easy to swap, and may cause starting issues when the engine is hot. If this sensor is broken, the ECU doesn't know if the engine is hot so it cannot properly calculate the air/fuel ratio causing the starting issues you are experiencing.
Give it a try!
__________________
09' Pilot Touring 4wd - Sterling gray/gray - 35%/20% tint (front/sunroof) - OEM remote starter - Full size spare - Premium running boards - OEM fender trim - OEM crossbars - HID headlights and foglights - debadged - LED puddle lights 01' Audi S4 - Imola Yellow - Stg II |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Super Senior Member
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A Bad coolant temp sensor is fairly high on my list, but there seems to be more going on than that
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#8 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 9
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Quote:
I haven't noticed any drop in oil levels, no smoke, no oil puddles, and no discoloration/foaminess in coolant Quote:
There are 60,000 miles on it Quote:
-Nothing noticeably bad w/ the MPG. I'll monitor it after my fill up -I did not throw any codes for the past 2 weeks with this problem. However, just yesterday, it did throw 4 codes: Cylinder 1 misfire, Cylinder 2 misfire, Cylinder 4 misfire, and Random Cylinder misfire - I am not sure how to test the fuel line pressure. Does this require special equipment? - I can try to test the alternator voltage, but I'm not sure what it currently is - I have not checked the timing belt, but I will. I have had this vehicle for about 6 months, so not sure what the previous maintenance was - I did change one of the ignition coils to fix the constant misfire. The car would not run smoothly, but as soon as I replaced the coil it ran fine. Now that you mentioned that, I think the rough start developed after this IIRC. Quote:
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 480
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You didn't mention that it is missing or running rough after a hot soak start, so ignition components are probably fine. Without putting a scan tool on it to see what sensors read under hard starting, my first guess would be fuel related.
Might be marginally low fuel pressure or regulator issue, which doesn't raise the pressure high enough in hot fuel lines to prevent vapor lock. This is especially a problem with ethanol blends in the summer and right after the engine is shutoff--under hood hood temps spike for some time before dropping. If your area has non-ethanol blends available during the summer, you might try a tank of that, first, and see if that helps.
__________________
BE '03 Pilot EX '02 Highlander '01 Civic EX |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 9
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After a few weeks or running, I've found some more info that may be helpful. It's taken a while to really get a good idea of what was making changes because I would have to wait until the next day to test it again.
If I turn the ignition to stage 2 (dash lights, radio, and AC have power), then I can hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds. As long as I do this, then the car seems to start fine. I've gotten into the habit of turning the ignition to stage 2, wait a few seconds, turning it off, turning it back to stage 2, waiting a few seconds, then starting the car. This starts it every time without hesitation. Back to the fuel pump? Am I on the right track thinking that it could still be the fuel pump? I originally threw that idea out since the car ran fine and had no problems feeding fuel to the engine after it started. However, I've heard that it could be something to do with the fuel pump regulator? I just borrowed a fuel pressure test kit and would like to test the fuel pressure. However, I haven't been able to find any good info on how or where to test this. |
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#11 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 9
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Quote:
Quote:
I am on my third or fourth tank of regular, non-ethanol blend of fuel. Didn't make a difference. |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 642
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Well, the fuel suction line and return should be submerged in fuel in the tank.
Of course that may not always be the case. It sounds to me like something is letting air up into the fuel lines as the car sits. Perhaps there is a leak somewhere. Can you ever smell raw fuel anywhere around the car? Of course a leak on one of the components inside the fuel tank (pump or regulator) would be very difficult to diagnose. It will simply allow air from the tank up into the lines. Perhaps that is what they mean by a regulator problem... |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 480
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Check valve in pump could be leaking, however overnight many systems depressurize,
One or more injectors could be leaking, which would depressurize and flood the affected cylinder. I'm still not taking low pump pressure/volume off the table. BTW, I haven't looked closely--does the Pilot really have a bypass/fuel return to the tank? I thought most manufacturers had moved to returnless regulators.
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BE '03 Pilot EX '02 Highlander '01 Civic EX |
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#15 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: United States
Posts: 9
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Quote:
I'll probably get flamed for this, but I ended up using the Bar's Leak product. I've been running this way for about a month and have not had a problem since. This was the exact product I used: www.barsproducts.com/HG1.htm It's hard to know for sure if it's the same thing as yours. In addition, I've been told multiple times that this type of leak is really rare. If yours is putting out white smoke, starting really rough (rougher when it sits longer), then it might be worth getting tested for this type of leak. |
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