2003 Pilot Ignition Switch Problem - Solution

[harley909]

For those of you having this problem, here is a reasonable solution,
In my case the existing switch was "mechanically binding". The key was hard to put in and turn...I had to jiggle and fiddle to get it to go in. This was because the "wafers" inside became misaligned not allowing the key to fit properly and allow the tumbler to turn.
In my case I bought a used switch (low mileage donor vehicle) however this will equally apply to a new switch. Mine came with a key (c/w security transponder built in...common Honda).
The largest problem with changing the ignition as far as I am concerned is reprogramming the new key and rekeying the doors to the new key. Honda wants about $1000 for a new switch installed and all doors re-keyed (mechanically) and programming of the new key (at least $60).
There is however a simple way around this;
I took my donor ignition to a locksmith and had it rekeyed to my old key (mechanically). So now I have an ignition switch with the same mechanical key as my old one. Now the problem is the programming....what is even worse is if I change the switch myself (which I am) in my driveway/garage, I would still have to tow the Pilot to the dealer to reprogram the key as they need the vehicle and the key at the shop to do it. Here is the best part, the 2003 Pilot has a "fixed" code for the key...not a roaming code. When you put your key in the ignition switch the chip is read by a device hooked to the ignition switch...or should I say "screwed" to the switch. It is a black plastic box with a ring that your key passes through as it slides into the mechanical tumbler..
Well guess what...it is removable (easily) and can be attached to your new ignition switch. It can be re-used on the new switch negating the need for reprogramming of the key.
In my case I had the new ignition switch retumbled for my old key "mechanically", the programming was unchanged and I reused the security ring off the old switch. So I have a new switch, with the same old key (that works the doors too) that is still programmed to the Pilot (PCM).
All of this was done at a fraction of the cost.
This is totally applicable to a brand new or used ignition switch.
So if you are going to have the dealer do it, tell them to get the new ignition switch keyed for your old key (mechanically) before it gets installed. (In my case it cost $25) and tell them to reuse the old security ring off the old switch on the new switch and then reprogramming of your key will not be required. Rekeying your doors will not be required either.
Basically you are getting a new mechanical switch and keeping the old programming and key.

By the way...neither the Dealer nor the Locksmith even considered doing this until I mentioned it them...and they both went..."Oh, ya that would work "

[cofetym]

Harley909 thanks for posting.

[mclairmo]

Awesome idea. However, I wonder how many dealers out there will say they can't do it that way because that's just not the way they do it. It's sometimes hard to convince others of a better way.

[harley909]

Not sure who exactly you asked about it, but you would have needed to take the new ignition switch to a locksmith shop (providing you had one where you live) and asked the Locksmith to recode the new switch to your old key.
The dealer has no method to take the switch apart to recode it.
I may be fortunate in that I had access to a Locksmith who could recode the actual switch mechanism to the old key. I live in a Community of 35,000 people. Smaller Communities may not have a Locksmith.

[sultenfuss]

This is to follow up my post need quick help - replacing 2005 Pilot iginition

We have a 2005 Pilot that had just turned 200,000 miles when the key quit turning. We got maybe 3 starts from jiggling and praying before it totally locked. Luckily (or not) we were home. We live a good half hour out of town so our best option was to replace it ourselves. Too bad I hadn't yet read to keep the key in the ignition. We bought a new ignition from the dealer for around $325. We asked about having it retumbled to fit our old key and replacing the electronic ring with the old one. They acted like we were crazy and said they couldn't do that. We found a locksmith who retumbled the ignition for $70.00.

The hardest part prior to removing the ignition was unplugging it from the fusebox. The wire assembly was plugged in to the BACK of the fuse box! We tried taking the box out but it was wedged. So we finally removed the assembly the wires are attached to on the ignition. Do this carefully as there are loose parts that need to line up on reassembly.

I found a post in here, which I can't seem to find again, about having to get the two screws out that are flat headed. Seemed easy enough but that was the hardest part overall. The space was so tight and there were so many wires we could not get a drill to position straight on the head for an easy out and could not get a dremel or other cutting tool in on the side to cut notches. Somewhere I read to "drop the steering wheel". The adjusting lever is NOT enough of a drop. We finally found a grinder that fit on our drill and ground the head off of one screw. Then we just bent the clip up to remove it.

Changing the electronic rings out was easy and attaching the new ignition was easier than expected. It started on the first try. We had a little problem with that loose part assembly I mentioned. It controls the a/c and radio (maybe more) but we finally got it to snap in tight so everything worked.

I hope this helps other DIYers. Do NOT buy the software from Auto Zone that is supposed to be like a user manual. It was useless.
Sheryl

[sultenfuss]

Originally Posted by harley909

Not sure who exactly you asked about it, but you would have needed to take the new ignition switch to a locksmith shop (providing you had one where you live) and asked the Locksmith to recode the new switch to your old key.
The dealer has no method to take the switch apart to recode it.
I may be fortunate in that I had access to a Locksmith who could recode the actual switch mechanism to the old key. I live in a Community of 35,000 people. Smaller Communities may not have a Locksmith.

Thanks for the quick reply but my message posted prematurely instead of making a new paragraph. We did have to use a locksmith in San Antonio.

[harley909]

yes I could see where undoing the harness at the fusebox end would have been a nightmare.
I never had to undo the harness from the fusebox. It was far easier just to undo the 2 screws that held the harness at the ignition switch end.

[sultenfuss]

Absolutely easier. Sorry, I don't know all the technical names. When we removed the old harness the pieces inside separated. Did that happen to you? I had to remove the plastic cover on the new harness myself to see how it lined up.

[harley909]

I must have been lucky as mine did not come apart.
I was quite surprised how easy it really was to change the switch when it was all said and done.

[sultenfuss]

I was too, other than removing the snap off screw heads. It just took time to figure out what we were doing on some things.

[isrb710]

This is a GREAT idea! We had 2 remotes, 1 ignition key, and 3 locks replaced/re-keyed on a 92 Dodge Grand Caravan after my wife's purse was stolen. Insurance covered it, but it was well over $1,000 back in the 1990's! In that case, we couldn't do this since somebody else had a key and remote, but this makes way more economic sense!!

I have a 2004 Pilot (EX). I'm having the same problem and have the cover off the bottom of the steering wheel. When I finally got the key to turn, I rotated the steering wheel so the top was pointed to the right of the car to give me access to the screw on the front of the ignition switch. I removed that one and one on the bottom of the switch. The ignition switch still didn't want to come out.

Are there other screws to remove? Or some other trick to get it out?

I looked in Alldatadiy.com and that gave me no help. Anybody have access to a 2004 factory service manual?

Also, what donor cars can I use with a 2004 Pilot?

Harley909, do you think the original switch could be repaired by a locksmith versus having to get a new one?

Did anybody take any pictures they could post? Is there another post that shows how to remove and re-install the ignition switch?

Honda in Marysville, OH wants $273 for a new ignition switch! OUCH!!

Thanks in advance, Ron

[isrb710]

I got the ignition switch out!!

Those 2 smooth headed bolts holding the ignition switch body to the steering column were a bear! I was able to use a Sears version of a Dremel tool and a plunge bit to cut "slots" in the heads. I then used a hammer and large screwdriver to drive the bolts loose.

Now I'm going to see if I can find a locksmith to repair mine!! Hopefully I can find one open on Sunday. Plus I need to find 2 bolt replacements to re-install it.

[isrb710]

I will pick up my repaired ignition lock this evening. I had trouble finding bolts that were the right size, which is M8x1.25 and about 14 mm long. I found socket head bolts that are 20 mm long, so I'll probably have to cut them off. The socket heads fit inside the flanges on the steering column bracket. I hope to find 12 to 16 mm long bolts, so maybe won't have to cut the bolts. I'm a little concerned about messing up the threads in my ignition switch if I use the cut bolts. I will buy a nut to thread them into first.

My locksmith charged me $65. Most of the locksmiths I contacted are the mobile types. I got 2 quotes: $120+ and $160+, depending on what they had to do. They claim to be local automotive locksmiths, but most of them are mobile locksmiths with a phonebank getting them leads. I'm not sure if any of them were capable of re-keying my original lock.

My locksmith's solution was to remove the worn-out tumblers that caused the issue. He estimated it would last 2-10 years. I guess we'll see. It's not quite as secure as before when it used 4 out of 5 tumblers, but it still can't be picked by a thief. He also said to NOT dangle a bunch of keys off your keychain when driving. It puts a lot of pressure on the tumblers and wears them out faster. He stopped doing most car locks years ago, as they change too often and result in taking inventory losses on obsolete key blanks. (Another TRUE local locksmith said this too.)

He said if I can find a tumbler kit for my lock, he could re-build my old switch to be just like new. Anybody know where to get Honda tumbler kits? He said to try Honda dealers first, but I'd probably have to call 4 or 5 to get one that would be able to sell me one.

Thanks, Ron

[sultenfuss]

Hi Ron. Sorry I didn't get back to answer questions but it looks like you did well! I never thought to take pictures. The most help we found was that one post in here and the sales guy at Lowes who showed us tool options for removing those screws.

I realize I said we could not get a dremel tool in the tight space but we did not actual try one - only a drill. So perhaps that is the way to go. Lowes had a small inexpensive "dremel" tool that probably would have fit. The grinder bit on the drill worked nice too though.

Our locksmith (a real shop) also said the tumblers could be replaced in the old one but since we had already bought a new one we just used it. He did offer to buy the old ignition from us for $20. We haven't taken it in yet to see if he really will. What's crazy is after going through all this, my husband's key has now quit working in the driver door. My key still works though so it's probably just a worn out key.

Sheryl

[isrb710]

No problem, Sheryl! I was able to figure things out based on your posts and Harley909's. They were a big help. And I only spent $68 instead of $1,000+ for a typical dealer response!!!

Regarding your key, you might look at: Honda Ignition Transponder Key (CHIP 13, Laser Blade) | eBay

The price seems reasonable ($7.50 plus $3.20 shipping). Not sure if they can do Pilot keys, but our local Ace Hardware had a sign saying they copy programmed car keys.

Pictures definitely help. I'll see if I can post some from my cel phone. They're not real good, but they should help.

Ron