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Old 10-12-2005, 09:18 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Crank pulley removal tool

I'm getting ready to do the timing belt on my '03 Pilot, and I need the crank pulley removal tool.

The Honda dealer wants $78 for the socket part of the tool, $83 for the extension on it (effectively a breaker bar), and they have to order them.

I see two tools on that say Honda Crank Pulley tool. Both are from Alltrade. The desriptions are somewhat vague "works on most Hondas and Acuras"....etc.

One part number is 648796 for $14.94, the other is 648818 for $19.99.

These prices seem a little more in line with what a special tool should cost, but I need to know which is the correct one?

The dealer's number is 07MAB-PY3010A for the socket part of the tool.

Any help is appreciated.

Mark in MA
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Old 10-12-2005, 05:56 PM   #2 (permalink)
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this is what that tool should look like!!!!

check out this link!!
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Old 10-12-2005, 07:46 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I think you need a 50mm crank pulley removal tool for the Pilot. The Alltrade #648796 has a 50mm socket. I don't know the size of the socket of part #648818. Here is a picture of part#648796.
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File Type: jpg 648796 alltrade honda crankcase pulley removal tool_.jpg (3.6 KB, 1331 views)
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Old 10-13-2005, 07:40 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Thanks guys.

Oddly enough, the price for that tool went down from $14.94 to $12.97 overnight....literally.

Placed my order.

Sure beats $161 for the two tools Honda wanted to sell me!! I find it painful to spend that kind of money for a tool that is used once every 100,000 miles to change a timing belt, when the timing belt itself is only about $40.

Mark in MA
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Old 04-24-2007, 05:16 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Hello, my 03 Pilot just reached the recommended mileage to replace the TB. Any confirmation if the Alltrade #648796 tool did the job. Any input is appreciated. Thanks.
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Old 05-02-2007, 07:45 PM   #6 (permalink)

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The tool is a good idea, or you could do it how I have in the past. Using a breaker bar and a steel pipe, attach it to the crank pulley bolt coming out of the hood. Then take a wheel off, put the car in gear, and lodge a long socket wrench or something similar in between the lug nut bolts (bolts coming out of the rotor) and place a jackstand next to it. Then pull on the pipe so the axel spins and the socket wrench that is lodged in the bolts hits the jack stand and get tight (basically keeping the rotor from spinning). If everything is all good, you can work the crank pulley bolt off. Sorry if this is confusing, if you want some more info I can possibly draw a picture
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