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Old 08-24-2011, 11:50 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Trailer hitch bad installation by U-Haul...Help

I am trying to add a trailer hitch to my 03 Pilot, just use it for a 4 bike hitch rack. After some search, I decided to go with U-Haul, as they have a trailer hitch part number 75175. That's made by Curt, part number 13378. Since they only charge $30 for installation, I figure it will be easier for them to install with the tools (tap if necessary, since the holes already have some rust.)

Now, after it's done, I found out U-Haul did a such bad job. There are 8 bolts and washers, 6 on the sides and 2 on the middle panel. He installed just 6 on the sides, and out of the 6, only 4 are from the trailer w/ washer. The other two on one side, he used the rusted bolts without washer from the tow hook.

The center two, he didn't even install it. When I called him, he first claimed the bolt was broken inside, after I checked that's not true, he claimed there are no threads left. What actually happened, it is the guy tried to short cut, he must have tighten the 6 side bolts first, the middle one is not lined up properly for the bolts. I don't even know if he chased them with tap or not.

So now my question is, with 6 side bolts already tightened, is that good to loosen them, adjust the trailer for the center panel? I am afraid once loosened, the side bolts may not be easy to put back?

What are my options? The guy insisted it's sturdy, and U-haul has lift time warranty for the installation. Besides, I now don't even trust him to redo anything.

Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Old 08-24-2011, 01:42 PM   #2 (permalink)
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This is why I generally like to do these things myself.

Take it to another U-Haul center and explain how
dissatisfied you are with the previous installation.
I'm sure they'll be able to reinstall the hitch for you
and do it properly.
I'd also suggest watching them do the installation
and make sure it's done to your satisfaction.
If all else fails I'm sure there is a corporate number
you can call.
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Old 08-24-2011, 05:24 PM   #3 (permalink)
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This is why I like doing these jobs myself.

My instinct would be to redo the job properly, certainly considering the Pilot is a unibody. You want the weight distributed as evenly as possible across the 'frame'. It'd always bother me knowing that it wasn't on right.

But you're right, there's certainly some risk. My hunch is that you'll be fine doing it yourself if you take your time, use lots of lube and chase any threads that give serious trouble, but I'm afraid nobody can guarantee you of that.


I don't share Cofeytym's optimism about U-Haul customer service or corporate giving a damn, or indeed another location being substantially more competent. Based on my regional experience in Houston anyway, they seem to be borderline criminally incompetent in all the work I've ever seen 'em do (which only amounts to a half dozen vehicles, but still, each and every single one was done wrong in some substantial way) Hypothetically, I imagine you could turn their policy around on them, if you're feeling fairly flexible, morally speaking. Have a go at sorting it out yourself (make sure you buy the strongest grade bolts you possibly can), and if one of the bolts breaks the welded nut loose from the body, bring the whole kit kaboodle back under their 'lifetime warranty'. Dunno if that'd work, but it might be worth a try, or at least a possible free insurance policy. Bring it back to a different UHaul location as well, I'd suggest. (insert devil horns smiley here)
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Old 08-24-2011, 06:38 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Theirishscion if you are ever in Arizona lets grab a beer.
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CURT*Trailer hitch /harness/Transmission and Power steering coolers (etrailer).
OEM *Crossbars and rear splash guard (HandA).
OEM* Foglights (Ebay/yourkeylessremote).
DEI * 452t Automatic Door Lock Modification (Sonixelectronics).
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SEARS*16009 Oil Catch Can Mod (Sears).

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Old 08-24-2011, 09:04 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I didn't know they can be so incompetent. Now, on one hand, knowing it's done wrong, I'd like to have it corrected. On the other hand, with some risk (removing or loosening the bolts might make it hard to put them back), I wonder if it's OK to leave the center bolts out.
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Old 08-24-2011, 09:51 PM   #6 (permalink)
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The Pilot is a uni-body, so the frame rails are not as strong as a traditional body on frame vehicle.

I would most certainly but the bolts in.
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Old 08-25-2011, 08:59 AM   #7 (permalink)
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There are only 6 threaded bolt holes on the underside/"frame rails" of the car to install a hitch on the '03-'08 Pilot.

Re-using the bolts from the tow hook is fine. They are not rusty anywhere other than the head of the bolt, and more than strong enough to do the job.

I have 6 on mine and have had no problems over 2 years of towing a pop-up.

What is this "center panel" you're talking about? Pictures speak 1,000 words.
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Old 08-25-2011, 09:26 AM   #8 (permalink)
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There are 8 holes and 8 bolts in the factory kit.

There are 4 additional bolts in the center to remove a good bit of the leverage from the rail mounts.

These may also be there to avoid having impact forces in an accident bypass the rear cross-member which is part of the rear crumple zone designed to dissipate energy in a crash.
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Old 08-25-2011, 11:11 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cofetym View Post
Theirishscion if you are ever in Arizona lets grab a beer.
You're on!

I hadn't considered N-Jay's point about crumple zones/impact force dissipation but I bet that's a point as well. I wonder if the center bolt holes have a meaningful impact on survivability of a rear-end collision, at least in terms of likelihood of the car being written off afterward.
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Old 08-25-2011, 12:56 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Better the car written off than the people.
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Old 08-25-2011, 01:08 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N_Jay View Post
Better the car written off than the people.
Absolutely, but I think that's the thrust of my argument, if Honda designed the thing to mount in the center as well as both sides, they presumably had good reasons for doing so, including structural strength for towing/tongue-loading, preserving crumple zone function in high-energy impact, and perhaps improving the outcome of lower energy rear impacts a well. Manufacturers are interesting in keeping low-energy impact repair costs manageable, the insurance companies start to ding 'em if they don't, or so I gather.

TLDR; Use all the bolt holes if you can, it's probably a good idea.
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