Trailer Hitch Installation Problem

[johnny_fontane]

Before buying a trailer hitch for my 2005 Pilot, I decided to see how corroded the frame weld nuts might be after 4 years of salt, dirt and water. I took a bolt (12mm x 1.25 x 40mm Hex) from the driver's side with the tow bar and tried to install it on the right side after using wd-40 and steel wool to clean it. However, the bolt did not go in far in any of the three holes. It only went in a few turns.

Do you need to re-tap these weld nuts or I am doing something wrong? No one else seemed to have this problem.

I need to decide whether to do this myself or throw in the towel and pay U-Haul $75 to install it. This hitch is just for a bike rack.

Any advice would be appreciated.

[KKL]

It is critical to re-tap/chase the threads before installation as pointed out in other posts on this forum. I bought a Craftsman thread re-conditioning kit for $50. Unless you have the taps already, paying $75 to U-Haul for the installation is not unreasonable. Make sure you remind U-Haul to clean out the threads before installation though.

[N_Jay]

DO NOT chase the threads with a bolt, you must use a tap.

If you have U-Haul do it make sure they do it right.

[rocky]

Might be worth trying lotsa PB blaster into the treads and a soft round brush to see what you can get out first before you try retapping.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by rocky
Might be worth trying lotsa PB blaster into the treads and a soft round brush to see what you can get out first before you try retapping.

How are you going to test it?

If with a bolt, and you don't get enough out you are likely to get the bolt stuck and/or break the nut loose inside the frame.

Cleaning threads is something that needs to be done properly.

(We are not talking about "re-taping", but about chasing the threads with a tap.)

[KKL]

Even with a tap or thread-restorer, be careful and patient. Use plenty of cutting oil. If the bit gets tight, back off, clean up the cuttings and repeat. That is if you take the time to do it yourself. The mileage with UHaul may vary.

[onu2002]

Originally posted by N_Jay
DO NOT chase the threads with a bolt, you must use a tap.

This isn't the first time I've seen you say this, and I'm not saying you're wrong; I am confident that you're very right, but I did just that. I tried installing the hitch myself, but of course the threads were corroded, so I paid a local mechanic $50 (I think) to run the bolts in with an impact wrench. One of the big bolts wouldn't go in, but oh well. I'll let you know if I ever lose the hitch while towing a trailer.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by onu2002
This isn't the first time I've seen you say this, and I'm not saying you're wrong; I am confident that you're very right, but I did just that. I tried installing the hitch myself, but of course the threads were corroded, so I paid a local mechanic $50 (I think) to run the bolts in with an impact wrench. One of the big bolts wouldn't go in, but oh well. I'll let you know if I ever lose the hitch while towing a trailer.

The problem occurs when while "running the bolt in" it gets stuck and breaks the nut free inside the frame.

Generally at that point you have a bolt stuck in a nut that you can't get off and is in the way of putting the other bolts on.

I don't think the hitch needs more than 2 or 3 bolts to do its job under normal circumstances. The rest are probably more to minimize/eliminate flex and for the unusual circumstance like an accident.

If you do a search you will find a LOT of cases where the nuts have broken free when someone tried putting the hitch on without chasing the threads, or just tried using a bolt to chase the threads.

Even if you get a bolt on and off, what you have probably done is galled the threads with the rust shavings and pressure between the threads. A tap is designed to push any extra material into a grove where it is out of the way of the threads.

As with most things there is a (or a couple of) right way(s) and at least 100 wrong ways.
Just because one particular wrong way seems to have worked, you might not be aware of all the wrong things created in the process.

[onu2002]

Well said. Luckily, I got lucky.

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by onu2002
Well said. Luckily, I got lucky.

I put the hitch on when the Pilot was brand new.

Since I am not "lucky", I try not to tempt fate!

[CNJ]

Originally posted by N_Jay


The problem occurs when while "running the bolt in" it gets stuck and breaks the nut free inside the frame.

Generally at that point you have a bolt stuck in a nut that you can't get off and is in the way of putting the other bolts on.

I don't think the hitch needs more than 2 or 3 bolts to do its job under normal circumstances. The rest are probably more to minimize/eliminate flex and for the unusual circumstance like an accident.

If you do a search you will find a LOT of cases where the nuts have broken free when someone tried putting the hitch on without chasing the threads, or just tried using a bolt to chase the threads.

Even if you get a bolt on and off, what you have probably done is galled the threads with the rust shavings and pressure between the threads. A tap is designed to push any extra material into a grove where it is out of the way of the threads.

As with most things there is a (or a couple of) right way(s) and at least 100 wrong ways.
Just because one particular wrong way seems to have worked, you might not be aware of all the wrong things created in the process.

Ok I checked the threads on my Pilot and they dont look too bad, BUT before I screw it up can someone tell me exactly what Tap I need? and /or where is the best place to get it? Any Hardware Store? Thanks

[N_Jay]

Originally posted by CNJ

Ok I checked the threads on my Pilot and they dont look too bad, BUT before I screw it up can someone tell me exactly what Tap I need? and /or where is the best place to get it? Any Hardware Store? Thanks

There is a thread somewhere with the sizes, but you can just take the bolts with you.

You need to go to a REAL hardware store or machine shop/supply.

[KKL]

The correct sizes are 12mm x 1.25mm and 10mm x 1.25mm. I am not sure about the pitch of the 8mm bolts. Try Sears, Autozone, etc to see if you can get the taps/thread-restorers individually. Taps are "expensive". The 12mm x 1.25mm tap can run you $15-20. See if you can find a thread-restorer. But go easy and be patient when you use it. I bought a Craftsman thread-restorer kit for ~$50. But it does not have the 10mm x 1.25mm bit. If all else fails, try www.mcmaster.com. You have to pay shipping.

[CNJ]

OK thanks guys! I'll look into it!

[speedlever]

We bought our 2006 PIlot in October 2005. about a week ago I installed a new Curt hitch (13328).

I sprayed some WD40 up into the holes (3.5 years + old) and then ran the bolts in by hand to see how bad they were. Pretty much no problem... just had to use some very light force to get some of them in.

On installation, I put some anti-seize on the bolts and had no issues at all torqueing all 8 bolts to the required torque.

I suspect the need for tapping the old bolt holes may have much to do with the environment your vehicle has been driving in (salt, etc.).

YMMV.