Trailer Hitch Installation Problem

[CNJ]

Originally posted by speedlever
We bought our 2006 PIlot in October 2005. about a week ago I installed a new Curt hitch (13328).

I sprayed some WD40 up into the holes (3.5 years + old) and then ran the bolts in by hand to see how bad they were. Pretty much no problem... just had to use some very light force to get some of them in.

On installation, I put some anti-seize on the bolts and had no issues at all torqueing all 8 bolts to the required torque.

I suspect the need for tapping the old bolt holes may have much to do with the environment your vehicle has been driving in (salt, etc.).

YMMV.

I'll second that! My Pilot is almost 3 yo. I just put my hitch on yesterday. A little WD40 was all that was needed I test fit each hole and could've screwed them in with a screwdriver. I went ahead and lowered the spare tire (2 minutes and it needed air anyway) It makes it sooo much easier to access the 2 center bolts. That way I could use my Power Driver on them to get them in most of the way. Then torqued all bolts to spec. no problem. I test fit the wiring harness I have and It looks like that wont be a problem either, I'll just modify the grommets currently on the vehicle. Next the ATF Cooler - still debating the $200 OEM or $50 - $70 aftermarket which some say is better? Thanks everyone

[KKL]

I concur. There are major geographic/climate differences in how bad your bolt holes can be. Years ago, I drove a rusted '72 Toyota Celica from Minneapolis to the Bay Area to attend graduate school. The rusting essentially stopped once the car got to California. If your Pilot spent its entire life in Southern Cal, you probably don't have much to worry about. For us folks in the Northeast and the Midwest, we have to be careful. I know the originator of this thread is in the Boston area, hence the caution.

[CNJ]

Originally posted by KKL
I concur. There are major geographic/climate differences in how bad your bolt holes can be. Years ago, I drove a rusted '72 Toyota Celica from Minneapolis to the Bay Area to attend graduate school. The rusting essentially stopped once the car got to California. If your Pilot spent its entire life in Southern Cal, you probably don't have much to worry about. For us folks in the Northeast and the Midwest, we have to be careful. I know the originator of this thread is in the Boston area, hence the caution.

Yes here in So Cal rust isn't really a problem unless you live on the beach. I've taken the Pilot to the mtns a few times so its been in the snow but I dont think they use salt just pea gravel. It doesn't even see much rain. In the NE and MW climates look out for major rust. In fact the Tacoma's similiar to mine have a buy back program for severe frame rust. It's so bad the frames were rusting through in some cases, but mine has only minor surface rust. So basically as long as you don't see rust I think some WD40 and a bolt should be ok. Just dont apply much force and if that doesn't work do as the others have said and get a tap.

[NelsonPilot]

I just installed a UHAUL hitch on my 04 Pilot and encountered a similar problem with the threads on the frame being somewhat corroded. A mechanic friend of mine showed me a good trick as he did not have the right size tap for me to borrow. I'm also a cheap ass, so I was very stoked to get this.

He took one of the original bolts that was used to secure the tow hitch and simply cut a groove length-wise on the bolt with an angle grinder. Bingo, an instant tap.

I then sprayed the threads on the vehicle with WD40 and cleaned them with a wire brush off of a battery post cleaner.

Next, I "chased" the threads with the improvised tap. I only went about 2 0r 3 turns in, backed it off and cleaned out the gunk that collected in the groove. Each time I reapplied the tap I sprayed it with WD40. This technique worked so well, I had to let others know.

[jestmaty]

Wow! 5 years later and you finally get the hitch installed.

Cool idea for a 'homemade' tap. You had the right idea by backing off every couple of turns to clean out the gunk and relube.

I'll remember that if I ever get in the same situation in the future.

I only had my Pilot for about 10 months when I put my hitch on. No snow down here in Houston and since it was so new, the bolts went right in on the first try.

Thanks for the tip.

[byscott]

Originally posted by KKL
The correct sizes are 12mm x 1.25mm and 10mm x 1.25mm. I am not sure about the pitch of the 8mm bolts. Try Sears, Autozone, etc to see if you can get the taps/thread-restorers individually. Taps are "expensive". The 12mm x 1.25mm tap can run you $15-20. See if you can find a thread-restorer. But go easy and be patient when you use it. I bought a Craftsman thread-restorer kit for ~$50. But it does not have the 10mm x 1.25mm bit. If all else fails, try www.mcmaster.com. You have to pay shipping.

FWIW, I recently bought the U-Haul 75175 (rebranded Curt 13328) hitch and haven't installed it yet (this afternoon's job). I picked up M10x1.25 and M12x1.25 taps and a tap wrench from Enco (www.use-enco.com) for $33.87 including shipping and NYS tax.

Part #'s are

M10 x 1.25 -- 311-4261 $5.95
M12 x 1.25 -- 311-4311 $6.95
tap wrench -- 891-1805 $10.99

[kkkkken]

I just finished installing my new hitch on to my 07. The 3 bolts where the tow hook were located came out like a breeze. I made the BIG MISTAKE of not chasing the threads of the weld nuts on the passenger side.

I had thought ofchasing them with the proper tap - but I didn't have one. So - I sprayed some Honey Goo penetrant/lube and used the bolts from the tow hook to try to clean the threads. AS I was working the first one in - bam - the weld nut broke free from inside the frame. Bolt firmly attached.

Long story short - some cut off wheels, and the bolt is cut and one hole is non useable. BOught a tap - and chased the other holes - perfect fit......

argh!!! I knew what I should have done - but impatience and stubborness bit me again.

At least the wiring kit went on like a snap.

[cofetym]

Recently purchased a 2005 EXL and installed a Curt hitch purchased from etrailer.
Installation was a breeze and the dry heat here in Arizona sure helps.
Sprayed a little WD40 in the holes and the bolts went in like butter.

[carguy07]

Originally Posted by kkkkken

I just finished installing my new hitch on to my 07. The 3 bolts where the tow hook were located came out like a breeze. I made the BIG MISTAKE of not chasing the threads of the weld nuts on the passenger side.

I had thought ofchasing them with the proper tap - but I didn't have one. So - I sprayed some Honey Goo penetrant/lube and used the bolts from the tow hook to try to clean the threads. AS I was working the first one in - bam - the weld nut broke free from inside the frame. Bolt firmly attached.

Long story short - some cut off wheels, and the bolt is cut and one hole is non useable. BOught a tap - and chased the other holes - perfect fit......

argh!!! I knew what I should have done - but impatience and stubborness bit me again.

At least the wiring kit went on like a snap.

Been there, done that. If you want to you can fish a bolt through the frame on a piece of wire and make a stud for it. I put one of those retaining washers on it to keep it from getting pushed back into the frame.

[krazykarguy]

All three of my in-frame nuts broke loose during the install of my trailer hitch. I ran a steel wire-wheel on my Dremel through each one several times before proceeding, and they still broke loose like they were held on with peanut butter.

My solution was to remove the entire interior to get to the floor and cut two 1 1/2" holes in the floor to access the now spinning bolt/nut combos. These holes were patched over and covered up under the carpeting upon re-installation.

The hitch is held on with grade 8.8 bolts down through the frame, rather than up into the frame as originally intended (much like the picture above, but all three).

A 40 minute job turned into a 10 hour, two day marathon. I have a metric tap and die set, just nothing as big as these nuts. I wish I had known about the "grooved bolt" trick, that would have been a life saver.

[Pinzgauer]

Originally Posted by carguy07

Been there, done that. If you want to you can fish a bolt through the frame on a piece of wire and make a stud for it. I put one of those retaining washers on it to keep it from getting pushed back into the frame.

I need to do the same thing in the same spot. How did you keep it from turning as you torqued the nut down? Did you weld it or did it just grip?

[carguy07]

I think I had a flat washer and then a star washer on the head of the bolt. It did want to spin just a bit at the final torque. I re-torqued it about 6 months later and it was biting in enough to get it torqued all the way down. If I had to do it over I would just use a star washer on the head of the bolt. An impact would probably get it to bite down too. If it really wants to spin you could grind flats on the bolt to hold it and use an open end wrench on the nut.

[Pinzgauer]

Excellent, thank you. I'll be tackling this again next weekend once my tap arrives, then I'll post the results.

[Woodlot_Manager]

Very interesting thread and probably the best I have found so far dealing with rusty weld nuts. (maybe I should get a life - lol). I now know what I need to know to get on with installing my trailer hitch and this has probably saved me hours of grunting and struggling. I am installing a trailer hitch for a 2006 Sonata. Same problems as above. Bolt size is M10X1.25. Indeed the tap for this bolt hole was not easy to find while M10X1.5 was very common.

Thanks for sharing. Even the testimonies of installations-gone-wrong are very helpful.