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#1 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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I recently installed a Tekonsha Prodigy brake controller and thought I would share my experience with you. I snapped a few pictures along the way so hopefully it helps someone in the future. It took some research on various sites for me to figure this out (I really had no idea where to begin before I started searching), and found some good information posted on this site. If I've missed some steps please feel free to fill in, or if something could have been done in a better or different way, feel free to comment. I'm by no means an expert.
I ordered the parts from etrailer.com, as they were still less expensive with shipping than buying the parts in my area. I ordered a prodigy brake controller, and a 4-pin to 7-pin kit to help with the conversion. The kit includes a 7 pin connector with a connection for the 4 pin in the back, 25' off 12 gauge wire (2 12 gauge wires with sheathing), a resettable breaker for the power supply, and various crimp connectors. The only other separate item I ordered was a few T-connectors (Scotch-Loks) for tapping into the brake line. The first step was to run a power wire from under the hood, through the firewall, so it could be accessed from under the dash. I chose to run the wire through the existing grommet that is near the master cylinder on the driver's side. Since the power wires are fairly large and sheathed together I could not fit it through with the existing wires so I simply pierced the existing grommet above the wire harness with a utility knife to provide a place where I could push the wire through. Outside Firewall:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Inside firewall under dash:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Once the power cable was run, I attached the circuit breaker (20 amp for 1-2 axles) to the firewall (positive wire running through it). I did not connect the power wires to the battery until the job was completed.
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Cables at battery:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Next, I had to run wire from under the dash to the rear of the Pilot for the brake power supply. This installation would have been so much easier if Honda had just included this at the factory. The brake controller instructions state that 14 gauge wire is minimum. I used what was remaining of the double 12 gauge sheathed wire that was supplied with the kit. This way I would have an extra wire run if I wanted to hook up a trickle charge line for a trailer battery in the future. I must admit that the sheathed wiring was very difficult to work with. It was very stiff and large diameter which makes some parts of the installation a bit trying. The sheathing provides good protection, but if I had to do it again, I would have used different wire or taken the sheathing off.
I ran the brake power wire along the driver side, removing the driver's side kick plate, rocker panel trim, trim that runs up along the seat belt, and the rocker panel trim in the second row. I then removed the third row seat so I could run the wire under the carpet to the storage bin in the back. I thought about removing the side trim in the rear, but that is a lot more involved, so I just fished the wire from the second row to the rear storage compartment. There are a couple openings in the carpet from removing the third row seat that make fishing the wire easier. Driver's side rocker panel trim removed (note very dirty Pilot):
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#6 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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Second row trim removed and wiring taped to wire hanger so I could fish it through to rear compartment:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Same thing, different angle:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Third row seat removed, fishing wire under carpet:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Once I reached the rear compartment, the wiring was too large to slip it under, and removing the rear compartment involves removing the side trim in the rear, so I drilled a couple holes through so I could reach the grommet in the rear, which is under the rear trim (above bumper on inside). I think the pictures will make it a little more clear. I had previously installed the wiring harness, which is an aftermarket one that I picked for about $25. Once the wire was throught the grommet, I siliconed it from the inside and outside.
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#10 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Wiring from underside:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#11 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Next, I made the connection for the brake power wire to the 7 pin connector (blue wire on the connector I had, I think it is Hoppy brand). I soldered and heat shrunk the connection, then attached the connector to the underside of the rear bumper by drilling some pilot holes and using self-tapping screws (also provided in the kit). I couldn't mount the 7 pin very close to the actually receiver location just due to the nature of the mount. However, it can easily be relocated and mounted to the hitch itself with a different type of mount. Once that was done, I found a location for the ground wire that comes from the 7 pin connector and cleaned the paint/rust off with a wire wheel attached to a drill. Once the connection was made, I covered it with silicone to help prevent rusting.
7 pin attached:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Join Date: Jun 2005
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Ground Connection:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
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Once the connections at the rear were made, I moved back to under the dash. I left this step for last b/c I knew it would be a pain in the a**. The prodigy wiring harness include 4 wires. Two for the power running to the battery, one for the cold side of the brake switch, and the other for supplying brake power to the 7 pin. I used a Scotch-Lok to tap into the cold side (hot only when pedal pushed) of the brake switch. It is the white wire with a black stripe on the '03s. I then connected the power wires that were run from under the hood (+ and -) and finally the brake power wire. Once again I soldered the connections and heat shrunk them, however using crimp connections would probably be fine, as that's what is supplied with the brake controller. Tying up the extra length of wires under the dash was probably the most difficult part of the job, as I couldn't get both arms up under there. The space b/w the front seat and dash was just too narrow. A few choice words flew from my mouth while I was trying to tie-strap the wires with one hand. Anyway, I then attached the brake controller mount to the dash near the cruise button. I wanted to mount it to the bottom of the "not an ashtray" but the wifey wasn't willing to give up the console space. Oh well. I then connected the power wires at the battery and plugged the harness into the prodigy. Voila. It actually powered up with no error messages.
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#14 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Battery connection zoomed out:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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#15 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: SK, Canada
Posts: 764
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
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Prodigy mounted:
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2003 SS EX-L; Sidesteps, aftermarket hitch and tranny cooler, prodigy brake controller, Airlift 1000 2007 Toyota Tundra Dearly departed 1991 Prelude and 2005 Civic |
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