Hi everyone
I am a fellow pleasant purveyor of a 2017 AWD Touring and Hardwire Installed a Lucas front + rear dashcam. Photos with details attached - The model I have also has parking mode / surveillance when the car is off + voltage over-drain safeguards.
- Did NOT need a 12v to 5v in-line convertor for this dash cam model - be aware that you may need one for other models and manufacturers.
- Hard wired directly into driver side fuse box (1 accessory power and 1 constant power).
- Highly recommend an add-a-fuse kit (i used 2).
- The pilot uses low-profile mini fuses, Not regular mini fuses (the metal prongs sit flush with the plastic casing on the fuses)
- Running the wires was a breeze - No trim pieces had to be fully removed. Gently lifted some of the rear trunk roof pieces to snake the rear dash cam wire through.
- Mounted the rear dash cam to the trunk cabin light lens (3M adhesive would not stick well to the regular plastic roof trim) - no regrets, very pleased.
Two fuses were used because the Lukas 9750 dash cam has 2 power wires for hard wiring. Wire 1 - for constant power that supplies the unit when the car is off and you decide to use the car in "parking mode" - unit turns on and records with motion sensing and vibration while the car is off (the unit has voltage over-drain protection built in) Wire 2 - for accessory power that supplies the unit when the car is on, but shuts power when the car is off (if you decide to use it as a standard dash cam, and don't want to use the "parking mode" feature)
Also did you open the A pillar cover and other trims to run the cable behind air bags? I saw some old threads mentioned that, not sure if necessary.
I did not need to fully remove any of the trim pieces on either the A, B, or C pillars. Just lifted some corners of the trim pieces in order to fit the wires in better - sometimes this meant popping out at least one retainer clip.
This is where a plastic trim removal / trim installation tool comes in handy.
Why would you put a rear camera? Did you install them because you expecting something bad to happen while driving or to record possible accidents when you are on the road?
Because if I am going to install a camera / surveillance system, then I want to have my front and rear covered. To each their own, but I am also the type who purchases a half million dollars or more in liability for car insurance.
As ChillyWind has mentioned - we have also had one of our cars rear ended in the past. The driver who hit the vehicle told the police that our vehicle "reversed" into them (...we were on the freeway where that would have been nothing short of asinine...).
For my front dash cam I did the same set up as you but didn't run the wire inside the A pillar, so my wire goes over it and down the side to one of the fuse boxes. You mentioned that you didn't have to pop fully the trim pieces. Was the top of the A pillar easy to pull out? Do I just tug the top off so I can slide the wire in?
I also added a rear camera but it wasn't nicely done like yours. I plugged mine in the rear cigarette lighter and used 3M clips to hold the wire against the trim. It's not firmly held though. I may try what you did.
I installed the rear camera after I got rear ended. The car behind me tried switching to the left lane but got hit by another car which in turn pushed the car into us. Wasn't our fault but it would have been nice to have video evidence of what actually happened.
You can power the unit however you wish - USB in line adapter, 12v Cigarette port, hardwire into existing power line, direct to fuse, even from battery with relay if you want.
I did the fusebox hardware because it hides the wires very well - seamless.
You can in-line tap 12v power port wiring as well, but that would require more removal of parts and more overall work. A cigarette lighter / usb cable would not hide as well, and takes up accessory slots.
People have even tapped into the wires that power the auto dimming rear view.
Nicely done. Thanks for the write up. Just to confirm in picture #7 (last one) should the red line you drew should be on drivers side and not passengers side? Just want to avoid confusion for others who use your guide as a resource.
Clearly, a well designed and well executed installation. Thank you for sharing.
Would a dashboard installation have been more work, or is the view better from behind the rear view mirror?
It appears that the fuse block dust cover was permanently removed. Perhaps an opening in the cover could be done to keep out contamination.
Hi everyone
I am a fellow pleasant purveyor of a 2017 AWD Touring and Hardwire Installed a Lucas front + rear dashcam. Photos with details attached - The model I have also has parking mode / surveillance when the car is off + voltage over-drain safeguards.
- Did NOT need a 12v to 5v in-line convertor for this dash cam model - be aware that you may need one for other models and manufacturers.
- Hard wired directly into driver side fuse box (1 accessory power and 1 constant power).
- Highly recommend an add-a-fuse kit (i used 2).
- The pilot uses low-profile mini fuses, Not regular mini fuses (the metal prongs sit flush with the plastic casing on the fuses)
- Running the wires was a breeze - No trim pieces had to be fully removed. Gently lifted some of the rear trunk roof pieces to snake the rear dash cam wire through.
- Mounted the rear dash cam to the trunk cabin light lens (3M adhesive would not stick well to the regular plastic roof trim) - no regrets, very pleased.
#35 - this appears to be the accessory for power only when car is on
#7 or #8 - are these the interior lights? this may be an option for constant power - You typically want to choose a fuse that you can temporarily go without in case there is a short
Highly recommend you at least use a cheap probe-style circuit tester to see if they are always on vs on only when car is on.
Instead of running wires all over the car, I wanted to tap the power from the rear-view mirror.
I found something called MirrorTap from BlendMount, but it appears that their mini-USB and micro-USB solutions won't be available for at least 4-5 months because they're probably trying to come up with a more slimline 12V-to-5V DC converter.
Wow, 50 bucks after shipping for a piece of wire with a fuse? Running my wiring from the pax side and over and down to the fuse box cost: $8.99 for an add a fuse ordered from Amazon.
Whoa, I didn't actually go through the checkout process to see how much the available MirrorTaps cost. I didn't think it'd cost that much. I ended up buying the one on Amazon for $9. I'll just mount the box behind the mirror and the USB port will be available right at the top for anything, whether it be a dashcam or a radar detector.
Very interesting idea to mount it behind the mirror. Can you elaborate more on how and where you connect it? Did you have to give up functions like auto dimming mirror? Also how are you going to connect a dashcam or a radar detector to a USB port? As far as I know most dashcams don't have a usb plug. Thanks.
Most radar detectors work on 12VDC. Dash cams are a mixed bag, some are 5VDC others are 12VDC keep that in mind if you add this adaptor and want to hook up a radar detector.
You can still get the A119 from Adorama on their site for $89 but shipping is about $5.00.
Used the empty fuse at location 12 of the drivers side fuse box and it's powered even with Auto-Idle Stop. It stays on after shutdown until on of the front doors open.
I wonder how much a custom auto shop will charge to do this. Does anyone have any idea? For those who were able to do it how long did it take and how much did you spend?
Only you can find out yourself by calling around and ask what's their pricing. They'll give you an estimate, but be prepared to pay more if it takes longer time than estimated.
I was going to buy the A119S but after seeing a stupid girl in my rear-view mirror almost hitting me today ... because she was actually trying to do a selfie, I have to get a front and rear dashcam setup.
I avoided the A119S for the front because of the resolution difference as it can only do 1080P whereas A119 can do 1440P. I hope you've seen the comparison between both A119 and A119S here, where it further shows that A119S isn't much more improved over the A119 as once thought. But for serving purpose of a rear camera in the dark, it might be useful according to the thread aforementioned as one person stated that the A119S is better than the A118C. I might have to consider A119S for rear video recording purposes, especially at night.
I was going to buy the A119S but after seeing a stupid girl in my rear-view mirror almost hitting me today ... because she was actually trying to do a selfie, I have to get a front and rear dashcam setup.
I really like the parking mode, so if the SpyTec/Viofo A11x series don't have it, I'll probably go with the EBORN HD Dash Cam. Also $99, has GPS, WDR, and includes a 32GB MicroSD card.
So currently, there's a deal on Viofo A119S (without GPS) for $79.80 + S/H $4.95 at Adorama for a limited time (sale started on 01/17/2017), but I do not know when it will end. This sale is about $25 cheaper than the normal deal (~$110). Viofo A119S with GPS is $99 + free S/H. I went ahead and bought two A119S without GPS (I already have front mounted A119 with GPS) so that I can mount them rear facing for the purpose of night time recording in two different cars, as the regular A119 is very limited recording at night time, especially when facing the rear. There's a YouTube video comparing A119 and A119S, although front mounted, but still big difference in terms of how much you can see more at night:
Edit: I decided to go ahead and purchase Viofo A119S with GPS instead so that way, the GPS data can be provided as a redundancy, in case the front facing A119 is somehow disconnected (no signal, accidentally, or purposely). Going to cancel the A119S without GPS via e-mail. Shouldn't be time sensitive because the order is backordered.
So currently, there's a deal on Viofo A119S (without GPS) for $79.80 + S/H $4.95 at Adorama for a limited time (sale started on 01/17/2017), but I do not know when it will end. This sale is about $25 cheaper than the normal deal (~$110). Viofo A119S with GPS is $99 + free S/H. I went ahead and bought two A119S without GPS (I already have front mounted A119 with GPS) so that I can mount them rear facing for the purpose of night time recording in two different cars, as the regular A119 is very limited recording at night time, especially when facing the rear. There's a YouTube video comparing A119 and A119S, although front mounted, but still big difference in terms of how much you can see more at night:
Edit: I decided to go ahead and purchase Viofo A119S with GPS instead so that way, the GPS data can be provided as a redundancy, in case the front facing A119 is somehow disconnected (no signal, accidentally, or purposely). Going to cancel the A119S without GPS via e-mail. Shouldn't be time sensitive because the order is backordered.
This video is one of the first batch videos. I was very disappointed at that time. Although it seems more lighted up where it's very dark but the A119s' video is very grainy in night and day. It makes it harder to read plate. However, recently a video was released with firmware 1.3 for A119s. There seems to be great improvement in video quality. It's on par with a119 now. I hope / believe with more firmware updates the A119s will justify the usage of sony sensor.
I really like the parking mode, so if the SpyTec/Viofo A11x series don't have it, I'll probably go with the EBORN HD Dash Cam. Also $99, has GPS, WDR, and includes a 32GB MicroSD card.
I think I misled you. The viofo A119 has motion sensing as parking mode, just like the eborn one you posted. I said they were not real parking mode because they don't have prebuffing. They start recording after detecting a movement or impact. Very likely it's too late to catch the original movement that can prove someone's fault. Unfortunately most cameras with prebuffing cost more than twice of the A119. Dashcamtalk recommends these three cams with prebuffing: Thinkware F50, Blackvue DR3500-FHD, BlackVue DR650S-1CH
Couldn't resist Adorama's price on the 119s and gambled that they will update it with firmware that will improve its performance at some future date. BTW, they had it at $99 with free shipping.
I updated my post to reflect the cost of buying A119S with GPS after checking it out earlier but prior to seeing your post. Thanks for the catch though.
Is anyone having issues on their touring or elite when it goes into idle stop? I want to install a dash cam but read that when the car idle stops the cam also stops. I read from a few sites that this happens when a radar is installed. I have a valentine one I've been wanting to install but would get annoyed everytime the car shuts off and the radar shuts down too.
I used an empty slot on the drivers side fuse box (#12) and my Passport 9500ix does not cut out when idle stop kicks in. Unit stays powered until one of the front doors is opened which to me is not a problem. I used an add a fuse so I could have the pigtail to wire in the Passport and will use the second slot to add the Viofo A119S which is on order.