Hello fellow Pilot owners. My wife and I have a long history of Honda's, coming from 1991 Accord, 1998 Prelude, 2009 Accord, 2010 Accord, 2010 TL and 2014 Odyssey. Now we've bought our first Pilot (Touring AWD) and I decided the factory lighting was not up to snuff during night driving. I have never installed an aftermarket HID kit before, but I am mechanically inclined, so I figured I would give it a go. After a month of research, I determined that I trusted reviews claiming the superiority of Xenon Depot kits the most. So I decided to order the XT-H11 bulb kit with Philips 4300k bulbs (+$45) and a CANbus installation kit (+15). After using a 20% off coupon code, the kit was a little over $170.
The kit was very well packaged, as many have stated before, and the directions were easy enough to understand. I would like to state that before I even started, I could tell that I would need more zip ties OR more double sided tape than what the kit came with. I say this because I knew that I wouldn't feel right unless the relay box, the black box that comes off of the end of the ballast box and the CANbus "CBFIX" box were all secured to some part of the vehicle. I chose to zip tie every element because in the long run, the double sided tape may give away and zip ties are easy to remove and put back on if you make a mistake.
Before I begin, I would like to mention that my pictures will show you how I installed the CBFIX (CANbus) box. But when I was finished, I ended up removing them because neither HID light would turn on. I will explain where I was in error a little later on with reversing the polarity, but for now, let's begin the installation process...
First, remove the front trim piece under your engine hood with your hands. Just pop it all out. This exposes everything you need to work with.
Next, remove the 4 push-clips from the intake by unscrewing, then lifting at the base with a flathead screwdriver. After that, the upper intake assembly will come out by hand with no more tools necessary.
Now would be a good time to remove the negative battery cable. A heavy-duty paper grocery bag isolates nicely...
Starting with the passenger's side headlight first, reach your hand in there and disconnect the bulb from the stock connector (it is green, easy to see when you're done) and twist the base of the bulb until it detaches.
Next, I laid out the entire wire and HID assembly prior moving it into the engine bay so you can see how I lined everything up.
A quick comparison of the stock headlight bulb compared to the Philips headlight bulb. The bases were a perfect match. There was no trouble getting it to fit in the stock housing. The only difficult part comes if you have a large hand (like me) because you're going to have to contort it in ways that don't seem possible. I ended up using my left hand to tighten and twist the bulb in. Your results may vary.
From the base of the HID bulb, it is obvious which connector you need to connect into the factory green clip end. This is a picture of the first connector we're going to begin with to attach to the rest of the wiring harness...
This picture shows where I will mount the little black box that dangles on one end of the ballast box and connects to the two connectors on the back of the HID bulb. I can't get a good enough angle to show you which connectors I'm talking about, so I will reference my previous picture. I have zip-tied this black box to a tiny factory wiring harness location.
Now to place the relay box somewhere... I decided to use the side of this fuse box. Make sure to zip tie it well.
The relay box has a positive and negative wire strap that you need to correctly wire. I picked this great location almost directly below it where the engine has a grounding wire connected to the chassis. The pictures do the talking...
The front of the fuse box seems to be a great location for the CBFIX CANbus box, I just zip-tied it onto the wire loom.
Now do you remember the wire that came off of the HID bulb in the beginning? Here is the time you can connect it.
Now it's time to securely mount the ballast box. Make sure to use all of your 3M double sided tape. The location I used is actually very flat. You're not going to find a better location than right here in my opinion.